I don’t know much about Hurst shifters for our cars, but they were the top of the line shifters for all muscle cars and for those applications were very sturdy. I used to have a '72 Olds Cutlass with a V8 350.
I just recently removed my B&M short shifter because it rattled, buzzed way too much. I also tried the B&M with ES bushings and shifting required more effort than I cared for to change gears. Needless to say, the ES bushings were removed after a few weeks.
I just recently purchased a 98 ITR linkage and dual bend shifter for $90 with s&h. First off, trying to remove the pin that’s in the change rod connecting it to the trans was impossible for me. I had to take it to a shop and they used an impact hammer. After that was done, I installed the change rod, change extension, and shifter. Unfortunately, our shift boot was not designed for this application because it set the shifter too far back, so I have a hybrid type linkage that has the oem change extension with the ITR change rod and shifter. This put the shifter back in the factory position, more or less. No rattling now from the shifter unless I’m in 5th gear at 30mph or less. Also, shifting is much easier, although the throw might not be quite as short as the B&M. The ITR set up does bring the shifter closer to the driver.
Does anyone know if the B&M PRO edge ratttles or buzzes?
A friend of mine has it. What drives him nuts is that you can pull up and down on it and it moves. Its like the beading inside the metal casing isn’t that tight, so you can move it up and down… strange
i dont understand, wats the diff btwn this and just a short shifter? Does the short shifter help with the gated feel also? or is that just the linkage?
I have the B&M Pro Edge, and mine doen’t do that. It does rattle a little however, but that is because it made the throw so short, and in order to do that it sits down lower, and the linkage was pretty much sitting on the RSR piping. So we ground down some of that leg section that hangs off the end of the linkage, and that helped a little. Then had a muffler shop heat up the stock exhaust manifold piping down below and pull in down slightly. Now it just rattles every so often. i am thinking of having the RSR mid section removed and have a muffler shop put in in a mandrel bender and dip a small section down where the shifter is like 1/4" to give the linkage clearance so it doesn’t rattle.
[QUOTE=lepore80]…I just recently purchased a 98 ITR linkage and dual bend shifter for $90 with s&h. First off, trying to remove the pin that’s in the change rod connecting it to the trans was impossible for me. I had to take it to a shop and they used an impact hammer. After that was done, I installed the change rod, change extension, and shifter. Unfortunately, our shift boot was not designed for this application because it set the shifter too far back, so I have a hybrid type linkage that has the oem change extension with the ITR change rod and shifter. This put the shifter back in the factory position, more or less. No rattling now from the shifter unless I’m in 5th gear at 30mph or less. Also, shifting is much easier, although the throw might not be quite as short as the B&M. The ITR set up does bring the shifter closer to the driver…QUOTE]
Would all of the itr linkage parts worked if you didn’t use the dual bend shifter? that would have brought the shifter forward a little. I heard the whole reasoning behind using itr linkage is because it gets rid of the play in the shifter.
i gots an EM racing dual bend SS…
its nice and soild…
no sealed bearing but its all good…
feels great…no way the shifter can break …its so freaking hard…i hit myself with it sometmes and it hurts as fuck…
Actually, the b&m shifter with our original linkage felt more gated than the itr linkage and itr shifter. The itr shifter is wider at the base which is why it won’t work with our linkage, unless you widen our linkage to accept the shifter. I think someone on this site might have done this. Truthfully, the rattling of the B&M annoyed me a great deal and I thought the throw of the oem shifter was way too long. The itr shifter and linkage is kind of a compromise of the two if you ask me. By the way, you can make your own short shifter by going in tegtips. I did the hacksawing part, but I can’t weld, at least not yet. Oh and don’t try JB weld cause it won’t hold a shifter together, I tried that.
I’m selling my B&M shifter if anyone is interested.
Yes, if I hadn’t used the dual bend itr shifter, than probably all the itr linkage would have worked, but I would need a straight shifter designed for a 94-01 Integra. Really, the issue is with our oem boot. So, if you just got one of those type r red stitch boots or just a plain 94-01 integra boot (they are bigger than ours), than the itr linkage and shifter would probably work.
I just ordered one from Queen Racing, which when it arrived, just turned out to be an APC, but i’m certainly not dissatisfied w/ it. It was very inexpensive, has sealed bearings, and shortened the throw how I wanted. Then I installed the ES bushing kit & a type R copy knob also off ebay, and for what I paid, i’m very pleased w/ my setup…
I bought a TWM short shifter from twmperformance.com
for $109 and some change. its a really short S.O.B the knob only sticks up a few inches from the console. and the throw is rediculously short. I have a pic below.
It only took 4 days to recive the product.
I am very pleased with it id say the throw was shortened more than 60%.