Yep, I dont see this setup making power past 7,300 RPM. Well within the safe range of a ARP bolt and a balanced bottom. The last dyno for 404’s I saw had power falling after 7,500 RPM. I doubt 403’s will require the extra RPM to make thier power.
As for retianers, I think arw321 mentioned there is no need to run titanium ones. This is right, they are unnessecary with 403’s and a wear item unless properly treated before installation.
The engine block threads will fail BEFORE the ARP stud threads will fail. AL vs. Steel? Believe me, I know from experience. Our AL B-series blocks are as soft as butter. (Ever try tapping threads on a B-series block? It’s like butter compared to an iron block.)
Also, IdntGlwIglisten, why not go CRVtec? You already are looking into going with a high breathing head, with the crower cams. If I were you, my next step would be a built B16 head.
-Andrew
I was thinking about going VTEC…
But now that I have a P8R head, im sticking non vtec.
It’ll be fun anyways, to look stock. =)
i wish my head was a P8R… i guess ill have to wait til i build one up
Considering how extensive your hardware is, and your 11.5:1 C/R, I think the next area where you’ll make the most HP, is with Vtec. You can still have a modest idle, with bigger vtec cam lobes. Plus generally, there is more lift and duration to be had with Vtec cams, than non-vtec cams.
IMHO, with your 2.0 ltrs, and high C/R, and non-vtec, it’s sorta an uphill battle with volumetric efficiency. Even with extensive porting, and oversized valves, 5-angle valve job, big cams, etc…the gains won’t be as significant, if you did equivalent work with a vtec head. The increase in volumetric efficiency with Vtec, is more exponential upon crossover, whereas with non-vtec, the increase is linear, and then generally flattens.
I think with all of the work you’ve done, not going Vtec, will make things as difficult as ship sailing. If they make motors for boats, why not use it?
-Andrew
Awesome. How are you Vince, havent talked to in a while!
Brian
im rockin’.
Working everyday, just got a wicked header. You should come by and see it sometime.
Bad turn of events isnt allowing any “Coming By”…
Ill keep you posted on my car and waht not. Ill try to swing out there sometime…
Could someone explain the point of titanium retainers if people say they’re not worth anything?
Lighter parts allow for higher redline (well- they make it safer)
However, its been discussed ad nauseum on the teamintegra.net boards that they only add a total of something like 4-500 extra safe RPM. They are only for people that are revving the motor considerably past the stock redline.
The lighter the parts, the faster they can move with less intertia. You wont need them on this setup.
cause maybe i want HUGE GUNS for arms!
According to Brian Crower…
“If the titanium retainers are marked “87092 Ti17” then you have the durable
titanium material that we went to about 1.5 years ago.”
So there you have it. I gotta check my part #. If that’s what I got, then I’m going titanium. If not, I’ll stick with stock.
hey man. if you need any help, tool whore or w/e let me know when you swap it in… that way I can call you when I put my new b18a also =o).
oh you should check out www.ohiohondas.com sometime…
Awesome man, thanks for the link.
edit: yeah we’ll definitely be in touch about the swap. Sounds good.
I really dont mean to beat a dead horse here, but going with titanium retainers when keeping a stock-like redline is like running a forged bottom end for a car with I/H/E.
Not to mention, I wouldn’t beleive anything said by the person trying to sell you something. Beleive the people who are trying to SAVE you from something.
I already have the retainers. I can just resell them now, it doesnt matter to me - but the reason I’m interested in because I already have the parts.
After surfing Ohio Hondas for about an hour, I can officially say that site completely SUCKS.
I understand the desire to use them since you already own them, but it may be better to just sell them and use that money elsewhere in the build.
honda cranks come balanced from the factory.
JE, Wiseco, and CP pistons are all within .01g of each other (in their respective sets) and eagle rods are all less than 1g apart on the whole set.
you honestly don’t need to balance…i’ve built several engines with forged internals that didn’t go get balanced when built, and are running quite strong with no problems, one of which is over 50k now (and it’s a domestic engine too! :shock: )