[QUOTE=ShadowxXxDragon;2042696]i did research and i think it has to be around 0-10 which is good. i know what it is now but i dont want to buy it. i checked and asked for a loaner tool but they dont have. if i would buy one, they say ‘AC’ tester…so i’m guessing its only to check AC bubbles on my cap i think. where can i get one or at least what is good?
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/leakdown/leakdown.php
i checked this site and said that if you hear air coming out of the throttle body, that means the valves are leaking or cracked. i see smoke coming out of my throttle body and i turn off the car.[/QUOTE]
basically anything above 90% hold is good then. which is a 10% leak. u have a turbo build, i say buy urself a leak tester… why spend so much on parts and stuff but not spend any money on tools that can help u diagnose or maintain the valuable car?
aside from the possibility of it being a cracked or broken or bent valves, its possible that those valves are improperly adjusted even tho it isn’t highly unlikely. no matter u gotta find out what is going on there to have 15psi. a blown piston, a hole in it, blown valves, etc are more than likely but either way u gotta confirm this already.
oh i see…what kind of tool am i looking at? the lady said she says the AC leakdown tester…does it matter? my motor was stock with turbo…
maybe AC is a brand? cuz technically there isn’t a leakdown tester for a/c. there are a/c pressure gauges.
the gauge thats in the link that u posted is a engine leak down test. it just sees how much ur combustion chamber holds pressure after it puts some air into it.
its like a bike pump with gauge. u put air into by pumping it… and u look at the needle to see if the pressure is dropping… if it starts dropping then u obviously know it isn’t holding.
but with a leak down test, u NEED to have an air compressor.
did you pull the plugs and inspect them? if they are sparkling clean you have a coolant leak. you can also pull the plugs and stick a magnet down in the cyl and move it around. if it comes up wet your head gasket is leaking.
i cant get in touch with a leak tester. seems like the stores are out. i checked the injectors and its wet. i stick a magnet in the cyulinder 4 and its wet…i think its oil maybe? i did torque 80lbs with ARP Headstuds. is this too much?
what’s the spec? and yes what sequence did u torque them in?
they will have carbon buildup on top so it’s probably not oil. the injectors will be wet b/c of fule but check the spark plugs to see if they are clean.
you prob just need to change the head gasket.
the tip of the spark plug is covered with oil. i think i also have bad valves cuz i see smoke coming out of my intake when i turn off the car…
leak down test results yet?
that’ll work. matco one brand new is about $125 or something.
bleh, didnt want to spend that much on a leak down tester…
what kinda of head gasket that would work with b18a1 with gsr head? i know golden eagle but any of honda OEM?
depends. did you redrill the head or the block for the dowel pins? oem ls gasket if you redrilled the head and oem vtec if you redrilled the block.
golden eagle gaskets are oem vtec gaskets either off a c1 or p30. all golden eagle does is laser cut the bores slightly larger. it’s not absolutely necessary to have a larger bore. they do it to all of them. only time you have to is for b20/vs. an oem vtec head gasket is perfectly fine. you shouldn’t have to redrill anything. golden eagle dowels should fit just fine.
[QUOTE=ShadowxXxDragon;2044728]bleh, didnt want to spend that much on a leak down tester…
what kinda of head gasket that would work with b18a1 with gsr head? i know golden eagle but any of honda OEM?[/QUOTE]
I used an OEM B20B Headgasket for my 84.5mm B20 build. Works like a charm.
well i got the conversion kit from xenocron…no drilling of some sort except i remember blocking something and putting in the two dowels with the golden eagle. i read somewhere that someone have a built ls-v and putting in OEM headgasket but you guys made it clear now…
how about torqing the head?? the ARP headstuds can torque to 80lbs and thats what i did…is this too much?
Depends on whether you used the moly lube that comes with the studs or if you used 30w oil. If I remember correctly, you torque close to 80 ft lbs if you use the 30w oil, but less if you use the provided moly lube. If you followed the instructions, you should be good.
well…i used 10 30 on it and torqued it to 80 lbs
im using ARP headstuds for gsr