is the b16A a good motor?

holy shit, my eyes.

Can’t you just use a " , " mark instead of all the damn periods? Second, not everyone here was debating which motor was better, people were actually giving points on each motors good sides and bad sides, trying to help him decide which route he wanted to go, like I said in my earlier post. A b16a is a great high revving motor, high hp but low torque range, probably faster in the quarter mile mainly cause of top end. B18a, has a great torque range good pulling power throughout the band in my opinion, great for autox or short roadracing tracks. This is what i think in stock forms, but any one of those motors can be built and fixed and made for any sport you wish to use the motor on. Many different applications for these motors so just read up and choose which you feel better suits your needs like skribbles mentioned earlier

i would have to agree with what most people are saying. i put a b16 in my car just this week. in my opinion i wouldnt change over from the b18 unless there is something wrong with it. i had blown my head gasket and this engine just happen to come by cheap so i went along with the swap. yes the torque loss is quite noticeable and you do have to give it hard to get the power out of it. down low its quite gutless but the top end is surprisingly fast. overall i would say it is slightly faster then the b18 down the quater mile… i also found that it is quite economical fuel wise being a 1.6L… another good thing is that most parts are interchangeable with civic type r/integra type r and there is so much aftermarket support for these engines. so youll have fun modding hehehe… b18’s power drops after 5900 where as the b16s power is just beginning hehe
if you like a high revving engine “safely” stock go the b16
if you like the torque go the b18
both will produce much the same result overall… b16 being slightly quicker

Might only be a difference of 6-7 lbs max torque, but at what rpm’s does it reach max torque? That makes a huge difference. If I have a teg with a b18a that reaches max torque of 100pd/ft at 1200 rpm and i’m racing a guy with a teg exactly like mine but a b16a and he reaches max torque of 120 pd/ft at 3500 rpms, guess who’s gonna get their ass ripped off the line? We have fairly heavy cars, and we need a lot of low down torque to get them moving. So like you said, 6-7 lbs might not make a difference, but gearing and when the motor reaches peak torque can.

But I just noticed something, we say 6-7 lbs doesn’t make much difference yet we go out and spend thousands on intakes, exhausts etc for the exact same gains :shock:

yes we do :werd:

This might be kinda ridiculous to say, but. Maybe Ls/Vtec? Best of both worlds. But if you’re planning on doin it right, you’re lookin at more money involved, so maybe not. What exactly are you going to use this car for? And what kindof gains are you looking for. More specific questions would probably get more specific answers. That way everyone can give their points based on what exactly you are looking for in the swap. I personally have never driven an LS, and never been beaten by one, but i know there are some out there that will walk allover my car, just haven’t seen em yet. So I personally prefer the Vtec, but i’ve seen a old school LS with just an intake and wires keep up with a 99 GSR. Now, he might have had somethin else, but i didn’t see anything. I was very impressed by the LS motor, i had never seen a LS as quick as that. But hey, the car is what you make of it and how you spend your money. Just think, with either route, you will be able to have a nice build. Maybe one better than the other, but both motors have their gains, it’s really what you prefer.(Just my opinion)

Face it, in my opinion both engine’s suck. They are very weak. But if I had to choose I’d go b16 all the way. Even the old obd0 b16 is much faster then the b18. I know b18’s come in various flavors, b18a b18a2 and b18b. But they are all slow in my opinion. They can’t do much more then slow down once they hit 5k rpm. Over the years the trend with honda has been to lose the slow, gas consuming non vtec engines and go with the far superior vtec ones. Hasn’t everyone noticed that the rxs’s and new EP’S are all some type of vtec.

On a seperate note, someone said that for 100 dollars more you could go on Hmotorsonline and get a b18c1 engine. I’d just like to say that, that comment is only half right. They sell a b18c3 for 1700 dollars, not a b18c1. So the b18c3 is an automatic engine with no ecu or tranny, so that means engine alone. You have to go get a tranny and ecu to have it run decently well. So the engine is weaker then the standard b18c1.

lol, wow- more replies than i thought. i was wanting a more of a drag type car, this doesnt mean im going to drag it 3 times a week and compete, but id wrather just have a car that is quick and will keep pulling on a strait. the worst whole part of this- im only 15 and im just trying to get some knowledge on this stuff. ive done many searches and have learned a lot from a lot of people. this forum is the best thing that has happened to me since i got my car. all im looking for is some advice to make my car better. i dont need a 500 hp car, but id like to be more than stock. obviously im not going to have enough money to put an H22 in it with nitrous and turbo and every other expensive thing you can possibly buy. so if anyone is interested in helping me, post some things that cost around 1,000 bucks overall that i could put on my car to make it fast enough not to be slow :wink: (not trying to copy the premier member with that quote, i just like it). thank you very much for all your support and not burning me on the whole “DO A SEARCH!”, that everyone says when a common question is asked. thanks again-Elliott

although i said the b16 is quite gutless downlow… in day to day driving its fine and you dont really notice.
i meant it when say someone pulls up beside you wanna just step on it youd wanna make sure your revs are already high… same with taking off, you really gotta take off hard to get it going ‘quick’.

to beat a dead horse, ill put in my two cents as if explaining it briefly to a friend.
a b18a/b is fine for daily driving if you aren’t a very aggressive driver (spirited maybe) and don’t plan on doing any serious mods, other than intake/header/exhaust. this person may focus more on body/interior/stereo mods. going to redline more than a few times a day or any type of competition may be considered aggressive. the only way you’ll know if you’ll like it is to try it on the street. it may or not be adequate.

a b16 is gutless down low but has grunt up top with vtec. it would be more suitable for the aggressive driver since he would be taking it up top more often and has many options for improvement. the vtec head design is superior and will appreciate mods more. also the only way of really knowing is to TRY driving it.

the option of turbo on the b18a/b is also a good choice and takes care of its lack of high end, but thats an entirely different path.

dont forget that people’s minds, lives, and pocketbooks can make complete turn-arounds so nothing is concrete. typical scenarios are people sticking with b18a/b’s for a while, then deciding to go vtec (ls/vtec or b16/b18c) or turbo. i guess its too complicated to offer the “safest” answer for any person.

just thought id add that i ran a teg vtir (gsr in the states) and i had no problems keeping up with it with my b16… quite an even race till the end of second gear where i had to pull back…
is that a believable story ??
just wondering coz i didnt know it was capable of being this quick hehe

I have I,H,E and my ole RS is still pullin hard to 7K, I might go there once or twice a weak. Oh ya, thats with 266K miles. So I definitely don’t agree with Rockstar who said the LS motor stops making power at 5, thats when mine really opens up and the intake starts to roar loud as if I had VTEC or something. And pulls hard to seven grand. Maybe I could throw it on the dyno when I get a chance.

back a year ago…i was always saying imma get a b16a…
now at this moment…
i find a b16a to be not worth the swap…
$+no tq…
besides with i/h/e iam sticking with em1’s


nice dyno isnt it…

I had a b18 in my car and by brother has a b18a2 in his 93. Wow these engines suck. Sam92teg, I’m just wondering if you have ever been in a car with vtec. What a world of difference. I know my obd0 b16 is the weakest of it’s kind but 100 times better then a b18.

you have no clue man, it’s obvious you have no idea what you’re talking about.

1st of all a b16 is NOT alot faster than a stock b18b, everyone knows that an LS with the b16 tranny will run mid-high 15’s in the 1/4, the same as a b16 swap in an LS. Take the tranny out of the equation and a stock b16a has nothing on an LS, after all we’re talking powerplants not transmissions.

That said the b16 has “slightly” more potential, it’s still very hard to get a b16 to 200whp, a streetable 190 is a more reasanable goal, 170-180whp LS have been done over and over, with 140ft-lbs of torque to boot.

come on man, he doesn’t want any run on sentences.
start using wheel horsepower. i haven’t seen any 180 whp ls’s that were 1.8L.

My buddies 1.8L B18A

holy shit. that thing must be one hell of a car. is he running a short tranny? whats his compression? what cams?
edit whats the flat spot at 5k? you sure he doesn’t have a vtec head?

yeh looking at that it does look like it has a vtec head ???
revvin to 8K was well…

First off, I never mentioned a b18b anywhere in the paragraph your refering to. Secondly I myself have a b16 with a cheap ass 90 91 ls tranny bolted on. Which is a horrible way to run a car but hey if you don’t have the money you work with what you can. But I still beat stock DA’s and it’s pretty easy to keep up with 94-01 b18b’s.