the labor ran me just under 5 bills, parts where another $120. I didnt have the whole support replaced, just the left and right bulkhead(rad support)
Just a little update.
hood went on last night and today the car came to work with me and i lined up and all the body panels and hood.
now i just need the bumper.
Carl:tapfing:
Also ordered the trailing arms and new rear wheel bearings as well as my blox endlinks.
parts should hopefully be in by the weekend or early next week and then my budget is widdled down for a little bit.
pics of the progres
It rained on my way home, so what better time for a little photo shoot. 
Updates
So i met up with carl and picked up front bumper skin last week, but i still need to get a support and the foam(carl :D)
it was good to meet you and hope to see you at the meet mang:up:
well people being that tomarrow is the big day and my parts should be coming in. I decided to get started on the project ahead of me.
I didnt do to much cause im not in any big rush here, and well unforuntaly it looks to be that the dr/r caliper looks to be sticking the pads wear is fairly uneven. I could most likely just clean and regrease the sliders,but i need to get new rotors and pads, there in need of replacement. So it looks like the EP3 brake upgrade is going to be moved up and engine tunning is going to have to get put off. hopefully not for long:cross:
some pic of the progress made tonight
looks kind of intimidating at first:rofl:
E-brake cable and caliper free and clear
Rotor and bearing dust shield, off
and this is what im left with right now
all thats left are the toe, camber, LCA and the 2 mound bolts and it should drop right out. gotta take all the dust shilds and clean and paint them.
while im there i think i might just hook this bad boy up :rockon:
Any one got a clue where i can but some rubber undercoat? roll or spray on. I dont care
well i decided to get to work early this morning since i didnt work till 11:00 and i mangaged to get both T/A down as well as the the swaybar. :rockon:
everything droped out nice and easy, no probems, no hassles
Parts, Tools and more. Oh my
Pass side coming down
Both sides, free and clear
Also came home to this boheamath sitting on my front stoop
MMMMM shiny new parts:cloud9:
next up the teins, camber kit, and brakes come out and im going to get up in there and check for and clean up the wheel well’s for spots of rust and the rest of the factory undercoating and apply a new coat of rubber under coating, once i find some:read:
[QUOTE=BLKACK1;1882180]
Also came home to this boheamath sitting on my front stoop
MMMMM shiny new parts:cloud9:
next up the teins, camber kit, and brakes come out and im going to get up in there and check for and clean up the wheel well’s for spots of rust and the rest of the factory undercoating and apply a new coat of rubber under coating, once i find some:read:[/QUOTE]
Dude your crazy! Brand new T/As! Are they DC arms or no. Looks like it’s coming along :rockon:. I wish I could say the same, lol. For the undercoating I was looking into either 3m rubberized undercoat, or the Eastwood Co. rubberized offering found here
As for the rubberized undercoating, you can find in almost ALL autopart stores paint sections. I am a Store Manager @ autozone and I know we have it in the can…
That exhaust looks great on that car man Awesome.
great suggestion, i picked up a couple of cans the other day:up:
It sounds even better than it looks :rockon:
Expect updates tonight:up:
Well people, Ive got a lot of work done this week.
I grabed a couple of cans of undercoat from autozone, thanks for the heads up T-MO 
and got to work pulling everything out of the wheel well. I took a wire brush on a drill and got rid of all of the dirt and loose oem undercoat, a little simple green later and i was able to get up in there and take a good look for any rusting i need to keep my eye on, no sign of any on the inside, just a little surface rust on the outside that is obviusly pretty typical with these:whew:
First off, for those of you that dont know
NOW you know. and if you dont have one, i highly recomend getting one.
I spend alot of time just cleaning and chasing bolts, nuts and studs. and due to that, all of this went back together like butter. not one bolt gave me a problem. :rockon:
some pictures of progress.
both wheel wells after a little rubber undercoat, I actually went over it with a second coat
Fender liners, camber kit and swaybar on.
Coilovers on.
Finally the moment ive been waiting for:rockon:
DC trailing arms FTMFW, future heads up to those thinking of doing this, and this is not something that came up in any of the little bit of searching about info on this swap. Im sure if i dug a little deeper, i would of came across it.
everything bolted right up, but the 1 issues i had was the brake line/dust shield braket only has 1 nut to bolt on where as the DA has 2. I could of simply drilled a hole and put a nut/ bolt on it. but its a brakeline braket, So i cleaned it up with some rubbing alcohol, but some silicone sealent on the back of the bracket and got it nice and hand tight. I dont forsee any problems with it but it will be something i will keep an eye on and fix in the future if need be.
I also cleaned up and painted the rear caliper and to my suprise, I came to find out there was not one gram of greese in the either slidder pins:wtf: So after fixing that. I cleaned up the brakets and calipers and painted them black with high temp engine paint.
Since where on the topic of brakes, I opted not to upgrade to EP3’s just yet. I how ever, picked up a set of new rotors and pads, and have been riding my brother like a jockey to get his ass over here so we can swap over the SS line that he took to ease the Trailing arm swap on his civic.
I also picked up a new master cylinder, cause its been showing signs of failure.
Speaking of, I think its time to head out to the garage to get those brakes on the car 
Looks awesome man!
:bang:
finnaly got this thing of the jackstands the other day, did a valve lash and went to start it yesterday, nothing :mad: good damit.
the motor turns and im getting spark, although it does seem weak for a for a new distriutor for the king himself,
Im getting fuel, I pull the rail out to find 3 chipped porclin seat and 2 shreading seats. no wonder i smelled fuel. I replaced those with some I had lying around.
now still same thing, motor turn, but nothing out of the ignition.
Im gonna put this out there cause it could most likely be my problem, my battery was dead and in order to get it to turn over. I ve had my 4Runner giving it a jump. Anybody else think the shitty battery is hold me back from my alignment?
EDIT****** so I swaped battery’s from the runner, now the motor will turn on its own, but still nothing. headed out to check the resistance on the coil
any suggestion work here people;)
Im by myself right now, so a jump start out of the garage is out of the question, right now at least
Coil was out of bearly out of spec, so i put one it that was bearly in spec, now im at least getting a gurgle out of it, so im on my way to my job to grab a red top my boss has had forever and if it works, ill just buy it at cost from him:)
well, I gave up for the day. fustration doesnt make the job any easier so tomarrows another day to get back at it with a fresh attitude
As you can obviusly tell, the trailing arms and rear end in general are just short of an alignment from being done
Heres whats been done over the week since my last update
dust shields, bearings on
rotors, pads and calipers
After getting the brakes on, I got the SS brake lines on as well as a new master brake cylinder. once the brakes where on and bled. and everything was tourged. I moved on to my vavle lash adjustment. this went nice and smooth up until the moment of truth, which im stuck at now:bang:
It’s really coming along
Does nobody read this thread, deffinatly not nearly the amount of responses I thought I might get.
I thought that I would devulge on my problem, the circumstaces that lead to it and what measures ive gone thru to correct it.
to start, when the car went up on jack stands 2 weeks ago, It started up fine. As stated above, I purchased a new distributor from distributor king last month(wasnt realy to pleased find a coil that was out of spec) and well where on the topic, when i pulled the cap of, i was suprised to find there was no screw holding on the rotor, anyone else seen this. it fits on nice and snug from some kind of clip, but its on my list of replacement parts
after determining spark was not the issue, I could smell a slight hint of fuel under the hood, so i decided to remove the fuel rail, to see if i had a slight leak and this is what i came to find.
2 of these
and 3 of these
Luckily I have more parts in my garage than you can shake a stick at.
so i managed to pull some porciline seats out of an extra IM i have and rubber seats of some extra injectors that came with it.
Got that all back together, I know its not the pump, MRF, or ignition switch, because they all seem to work fine.
Now heres the topper. I went to jump the start to the battery, the motor turns and i can hear a slight pop in the exaust. A couple of cranks later, I get a pop out of the throtle body, Just to make sure I pull the #1 spark plug where and test it for spark as I crank the motor a couple more times. This time I not only get a pop out of the T\B, I get a huge ball of fire that singes nearly every hair i have on my left forarm off.
This tells me
A. I need to quit working on cars:giggle: and
B. I know im getting fuel and spark
But why am I getting out of the intake???
Right now my next step is to take the vavle cover back off, and check cam and crank to make sure timing is correct
Come on G2IC. wheres the love, I need some help here:up:
:werd:
Looking good Glynn1
Im impressed. I like the green paint too. More and more Im thinking green for mine too.
-s
This may be something youve already done but check your timing. Make sure the §§§§§ is on ritght too. I had the same prob after a rebuild and it ended up being timing. Hope this helps.
Looking good Glynn1
Im impressed. I like the green paint too. More and more Im thinking green for mine too.
-s[/QUOTE]
Isle pearl green, Look into it. i think you will like it alot more in person. 
how that amp rack going?
thanks man, im pretty sure it not the Ignition timing, I didnt pull or even lossen the distributor. however i did take with Jeff at distributor king through email and im send mine back and am getting a new one. I will say the customer service at D/K is absolutly awsome, I wrote them an email this morning and not even an hour later, I had herd back from them. even if it was ignition timing the car would still start, it would just run like shit.
How ever cam timing is what i think my problem is. According to my manual. it says to lossen the Timing Belt tensioner, then adjust and reset tension. which is what I did, but im wondering if when i let off the tension that the I/C moved a little bit. I finnaly got a hold of my mechanic, and he told me he dosnt even lossen the tension on the belt when he does a valve job.
Thanks for the suggestion though mang:up:
Right now it looks like its gonna be a couple weeks before i get it running with shipping and return shipping on the distribtor and waiting for the battery to get in.
BTW Agazzi, good call on that:hi5:
in that time, im gonna pull the V/C, check the tension and cam timing to make sure its correct, go through check my lash again since im in there and try it all over again when I get what I need:)