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What short shifter to buy?

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What short shifter to buy?

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    What short shifter to buy?

    I'm looking to buy a short shifter and want to know what is the best. I have seen skunk 2, dc sports, and b&m short shifters go for over one hundred bucks, and i want to know if i need to spend that much, or if i can pay like 35 bucks for an evasive motorsports shifter and get the same quality product?
    Also is it better to get a straight, single bend, or double bend shifter? I have a 90 integra GS?

    #2
    I picked up my B&M short throw for 65 shipped with energy susp. bushings from www.cartunerz.com. Fast shipping no complaints about them. i would stray away from the ebay shifters b/c i have read that they can snap under pressure, being made out of aluminum. The B&M is steel and really great quality garenteed for life. The short throw is an awesome investement, go b&m

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      #3
      I've got B&M as well, most people do

      I'm happy with it, but after just a month I already want an even shorter one

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        #4
        Which shifter did you buy and where did you buy it? 65 bucks?

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          #5
          i got a used skunk2 with new ES bushings for $85 shipped awhile back. then got the skunk2 weighted knob, which makes a world of a difference in feel.

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            #6
            click on the link i posted and its right on the main page

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              #7
              i got a dc shifter its part 6002 (for a civic i believe), i got a deal on it from somewhere....but its very beefy and dropped the knob way way down. very nice feel.

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                #8
                I have the B&M dual bend, got it for $38 on Ebay, also got Prothane bushings for 18 and a B&M 440gram knob for $34. I like the setup. There is a thread on the Evasive one somewhere here.

                2NDGENTEG: yeah, I forget how short my throw really is now. I sometimes think shorter is better, then I jumped into a friend's Golf and realized that it's throw is at least twice as long as mine.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by strikeback03
                  I have the B&M dual bend, got it for $38 on Ebay, also got Prothane bushings for 18 and a B&M 440gram knob for $34. I like the setup. There is a thread on the Evasive one somewhere here.

                  2NDGENTEG: yeah, I forget how short my throw really is now. I sometimes think shorter is better, then I jumped into a friend's Golf and realized that it's throw is at least twice as long as mine.
                  I had a ride in an S2000 the other day... and you only have to flick your wrist....

                  right now I have to put up with my Protege for the winter.... the shifter is long, but it is excessively tight

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                    #10
                    I can keep my elbow on my armrest and move through the entire pattern with just my wrist. Throws are almost as short as I remember the S2000 being, but not nearly as precise, even with the bushing kit. Is still way better than most stick trannys though.

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                      #11
                      I love my skunk2 dual bend. I'd recommend that. Top-end motorsport sells them for like $105 shipped.

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                        #12
                        Does anyone know why the pro edge b&m shifter is so much more than the edge b&m shifter? What makes it better?

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                          #13
                          replaces the plastic accordian-thing and rubber boot from the stock shifter (which get reused on the normal B&M) with a Delrin bushing and aluminum housing. Might be slightly different shaped too - I think they claim throw is slightly shorter than the normal B&M

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                            #14
                            yup.... the difference is like 25% throw reduction, vs. 33% throw reduction

                            the more expensive one uses a bearing, not a bushing... I tried out a friends and I'd say its not really worth it.... you pay a LOT more for one over the other

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                              #15
                              i have the DC short shifter with ENERGY SUSPENSION shifter bushings and a MUGEN polished shift knob.

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                                #16
                                Originally posted by 92mugenintegra
                                i have the DC short shifter with ENERGY SUSPENSION shifter bushings and a MUGEN polished shift knob.

                                Satisfied?

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                                  #17
                                  ya i am

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                                    #18
                                    I have the B&M Pro Edge with ES bushings and I love it. My friend has the regular B&M, and after shifting through mine, he wants to swap out. the only thing I want to do is swap to the Prothane bushings and maybe to the itr shift linkage.

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                                      #19
                                      Hey does anyone know anything about the hurst shifters? I'm thinking about buying one because the price is right, but i don't want to buy shit! What do you guys think?

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                                        #20
                                        did any of you still have a soup stirrer for a shifter after you put in a short shifter, whatever brand you happen to have gotten? because i got the es bushings and mine still moves a lot, whether in gear or not.

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                                          #21
                                          I don't know much about Hurst shifters for our cars, but they were the top of the line shifters for all muscle cars and for those applications were very sturdy. I used to have a '72 Olds Cutlass with a V8 350.

                                          I just recently removed my B&M short shifter because it rattled, buzzed way too much. I also tried the B&M with ES bushings and shifting required more effort than I cared for to change gears. Needless to say, the ES bushings were removed after a few weeks.

                                          I just recently purchased a 98 ITR linkage and dual bend shifter for $90 with s&h. First off, trying to remove the pin that's in the change rod connecting it to the trans was impossible for me. I had to take it to a shop and they used an impact hammer. After that was done, I installed the change rod, change extension, and shifter. Unfortunately, our shift boot was not designed for this application because it set the shifter too far back, so I have a hybrid type linkage that has the oem change extension with the ITR change rod and shifter. This put the shifter back in the factory position, more or less. No rattling now from the shifter unless I'm in 5th gear at 30mph or less. Also, shifting is much easier, although the throw might not be quite as short as the B&M. The ITR set up does bring the shifter closer to the driver.

                                          Does anyone know if the B&M PRO edge ratttles or buzzes?

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                                            #22
                                            Originally posted by lepore80
                                            I don't know much about Hurst shifters for our cars, but they were the top

                                            Does anyone know if the B&M PRO edge ratttles or buzzes?
                                            A friend of mine has it. What drives him nuts is that you can pull up and down on it and it moves. Its like the beading inside the metal casing isn't that tight, so you can move it up and down... strange

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                                              #23
                                              Originally posted by lepore80
                                              I don't know much about Hurst shifters for our cars, but they were the top of the line shifters for all muscle cars and for those applications were very sturdy. I used to have a '72 Olds Cutlass with a V8 350.

                                              I just recently removed my B&M short shifter because it rattled, buzzed way too much. I also tried the B&M with ES bushings and shifting required more effort than I cared for to change gears. Needless to say, the ES bushings were removed after a few weeks.

                                              I just recently purchased a 98 ITR linkage and dual bend shifter for $90 with s&h. First off, trying to remove the pin that's in the change rod connecting it to the trans was impossible for me. I had to take it to a shop and they used an impact hammer. After that was done, I installed the change rod, change extension, and shifter. Unfortunately, our shift boot was not designed for this application because it set the shifter too far back, so I have a hybrid type linkage that has the oem change extension with the ITR change rod and shifter. This put the shifter back in the factory position, more or less. No rattling now from the shifter unless I'm in 5th gear at 30mph or less. Also, shifting is much easier, although the throw might not be quite as short as the B&M. The ITR set up does bring the shifter closer to the driver.

                                              Does anyone know if the B&M PRO edge ratttles or buzzes?
                                              i dont understand, wats the diff btwn this and just a short shifter? Does the short shifter help with the gated feel also? or is that just the linkage?

                                              Comment


                                                #24
                                                Originally posted by 2NDGENTEG
                                                A friend of mine has it. What drives him nuts is that you can pull up and down on it and it moves. Its like the beading inside the metal casing isn't that tight, so you can move it up and down... strange
                                                I have the B&M Pro Edge, and mine doen't do that. It does rattle a little however, but that is because it made the throw so short, and in order to do that it sits down lower, and the linkage was pretty much sitting on the RSR piping. So we ground down some of that leg section that hangs off the end of the linkage, and that helped a little. Then had a muffler shop heat up the stock exhaust manifold piping down below and pull in down slightly. Now it just rattles every so often. i am thinking of having the RSR mid section removed and have a muffler shop put in in a mandrel bender and dip a small section down where the shifter is like 1/4" to give the linkage clearance so it doesn't rattle.

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                                                  #25
                                                  [QUOTE=lepore80]...I just recently purchased a 98 ITR linkage and dual bend shifter for $90 with s&h. First off, trying to remove the pin that's in the change rod connecting it to the trans was impossible for me. I had to take it to a shop and they used an impact hammer. After that was done, I installed the change rod, change extension, and shifter. Unfortunately, our shift boot was not designed for this application because it set the shifter too far back, so I have a hybrid type linkage that has the oem change extension with the ITR change rod and shifter. This put the shifter back in the factory position, more or less. No rattling now from the shifter unless I'm in 5th gear at 30mph or less. Also, shifting is much easier, although the throw might not be quite as short as the B&M. The ITR set up does bring the shifter closer to the driver....QUOTE]

                                                  Would all of the itr linkage parts worked if you didn't use the dual bend shifter? that would have brought the shifter forward a little. I heard the whole reasoning behind using itr linkage is because it gets rid of the play in the shifter.

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