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    My B20B is almost ready!

    I'm almost ready to assemble and drop it in!

    98 JDM B20B
    Crower 403's
    Crower dual valve springs & retainers
    AEM cam gears
    B&M FPR
    JE 11.5:1 Pistons
    Eagle Rods
    ACL bearings (might end up going honda OEM, instead..)
    APR Head Studs
    APR Rod Bolts
    Apex'i SAFC for tuning

    The car has other mods, but this is all that relates to the motor, I suppose.

    I'm gonna toss on a new timing belt, water pump, and tensioner, as well. Some new seals and a new headgasket. Other than that I think it should be okay.

    I'm open to suggestions, as to anything else anyone thinks I should do before installation. This is my first motor swap. Thanks.
    Last edited by IdntGlwIglisten; 01 Feb 2005, 18:38:45.

    #2
    balanced bottom end? How high are you going to rev it?

    Ben

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      #3
      7500 or so? 8000 when I'm feeling crazy? too high?

      When do 403's stop making power?

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by IdntGlwIglisten
        7500 or so? 8000 when I'm feeling crazy? too high?

        When do 403's stop making power?

        stock redline on the b20 is 6400 or 6800rpm?

        thats alot of stress on your block and its prolly gonna get pissed at you after awhile

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Junkie XL
          stock redline on the b20 is 6400 or 6800rpm?

          thats alot of stress on your block and its prolly gonna get pissed at you after awhile
          Actually from what Vince (notstock93) and I have been talking about if you replace the Rod Bolts (which he did) then he'll hvae no problem revving that high.

          Your build is almost Identical to mine, except Im keeping the stock bottom end (for now) but Ill be runnign 62403's, DVS', skunk2 Cam Gears, Custom Intake Manifold, GE Fuel Rail and FPR, Prelude (92-96) 345cc Injectors, JDM ITR 4-1 header and most likely an SAFC for tuning. But I wish you luck with your build.

          Comment


            #6
            With that much compression why don't you go with 404s? Not sure 403s will make use of that much compression.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by IdntGlwIglisten
              I'm almost ready to assemble and drop it in!

              98 JDM B20B
              Crower 403's
              Crower dual valve springs & retainers
              AEM cam gears
              B&M FPR
              JE 11.5:1 Pistons
              Shotpeened LS rods
              ACL bearings (might end up going honda OEM, instead..)
              APR Head Studs
              APR Rod Bolts
              Blockguard
              345CC injectors (i think these are going to end up being too much, even with the SAFC)
              Apex'i SAFC for tuning

              The car has other mods, but this is all that relates to the motor, I suppose.

              I'm gonna toss on a new timing belt, water pump, and tensioner, as well. Some new seals and a new headgasket. Other than that I think it should be okay.

              I'm open to suggestions, as to anything else anyone thinks I should do before installation. This is my first motor swap. Thanks.
              you and i have had our differences.... yet we seem to be building the same motor.

              i just finished dropping in my '00 B20Z with 84.5 Endyn pistons (10.7 CR) , shot peened rods, arp bolts and studs, yada yada yada, im breaking it in on a stock head and then ill be dropping in some 404s. id really really suggest the 404s if its not too late, you might be dissapointed in the 403s if youve done all this work. 404s with that build can get you 180hp with 140 tq easy. thats my goals. you might wanna check out Neptune for your tuning needs

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by IdntGlwIglisten
                7500 or so? 8000 when I'm feeling crazy? too high?
                Sounds good to me. Thats how high I would go. But consider a balanced bottom end if its not too late.

                Ben

                Comment


                  #9
                  Its not too late to balance.

                  EvilOlive - I already have the 403's in the head, assembled...

                  Unless I sell the 403's and purchase 404's, im stuck with 403's. This is my daily driver, which I put a -lot- of miles on, so I'd like to get somewhat decent fuel milage, which I dont think will be possible, with 404's.

                  What does everyone think about injector size? Stock b20b injectors okay? Or use my 345's? Break it in with the stock ones then mess around with the 345's so I dont wash out my rings?

                  Lets hear it boys.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    balancing your motor just be considered a necessity when building a motor. Any good machine shop will pretty much force you to balance your bottom end, there shouldnt be any question to it

                    Comment


                      #11
                      A little off topic but...I'm doing new cams in my b18a1, i was wondering if i have to take the head off to set the 1 and 4 cylinders to TDC to allign them or is there an easier way?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        you do not need to remove the head to install cams.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The cam gears, crank pulley, distributer rotor and pistons themselves can show you TDC. Sounds like you could use a manual in a bad way. Even a $15 Haynes will give you step by steps, and torque specs, which are very important if you are going to be doing cam swaps and such.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Ohhhh, i forgot about the allignment notch in the cam gears, i can figure it out now, thanks guys.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              what are you doing about fuel?? other than the FPR which IMO, is a waste.
                              Chipping ecu?

                              Comment


                                #16
                                I have the FPR, because I got it for free. I'm also running an SAFC.

                                Comment


                                  #17
                                  Originally posted by IdntGlwIglisten
                                  Its not too late to balance.

                                  EvilOlive - I already have the 403's in the head, assembled...

                                  Unless I sell the 403's and purchase 404's, im stuck with 403's. This is my daily driver, which I put a -lot- of miles on, so I'd like to get somewhat decent fuel milage, which I dont think will be possible, with 404's.

                                  What does everyone think about injector size? Stock b20b injectors okay? Or use my 345's? Break it in with the stock ones then mess around with the 345's so I dont wash out my rings?

                                  Lets hear it boys.
                                  You will need to balance your bottom end. End of story. The rods should be re-sized after you have your ARP rod bolts installed and the netire rotating ass'y will need to be balanced.

                                  345's are overkill for that setup. I'd suggest RC 270's. You have no way of trimming back injector duty cycle (ie hondata) so 345s will be too big.

                                  I would aso just run stock retainers. Titanium retainers are susceptible to galling and are an item that needs to be checked/replaced on a regular basis.

                                  Comment


                                    #18
                                    If stock are better, than what are the benefits to TI retainers?

                                    I'll address the fuel issue then, as well.

                                    The rods / pistons are already assembled and resized for the bolts.

                                    Comment


                                      #19
                                      Not to dig up my old topic - but everything is just about ready to get put in.. And I noticed I have the rare P8R on my b20b.

                                      That made my day. =)

                                      Comment


                                        #20
                                        Originally posted by IdntGlwIglisten
                                        Not to dig up my old topic - but everything is just about ready to get put in.. And I noticed I have the rare P8R on my b20b.

                                        That made my day. =)
                                        Look into a good 4-1 header w/2.5" collector and 2.5" piping.

                                        Good find on the P8R head. You lucked out.

                                        Comment


                                          #21
                                          Originally posted by Brian
                                          Actually from what Vince (notstock93) and I have been talking about if you replace the Rod Bolts (which he did) then he'll hvae no problem revving that high.

                                          Your build is almost Identical to mine, except Im keeping the stock bottom end (for now) but Ill be runnign 62403's, DVS', skunk2 Cam Gears, Custom Intake Manifold, GE Fuel Rail and FPR, Prelude (92-96) 345cc Injectors, JDM ITR 4-1 header and most likely an SAFC for tuning. But I wish you luck with your build.
                                          Yep, I dont see this setup making power past 7,300 RPM. Well within the safe range of a ARP bolt and a balanced bottom. The last dyno for 404's I saw had power falling after 7,500 RPM. I doubt 403's will require the extra RPM to make thier power.

                                          As for retianers, I think arw321 mentioned there is no need to run titanium ones. This is right, they are unnessecary with 403's and a wear item unless properly treated before installation.

                                          Comment


                                            #22
                                            Originally posted by Notstock93
                                            Yep, I dont see this setup making power past 7,300 RPM. Well within the safe range of a ARP bolt and a balanced bottom. The last dyno for 404's I saw had power falling after 7,500 RPM. I doubt 403's will require the extra RPM to make thier power.

                                            As for retianers, I think arw321 mentioned there is no need to run titanium ones. This is right, they are unnessecary with 403's and a wear item unless properly treated before installation.
                                            The engine block threads will fail BEFORE the ARP stud threads will fail. AL vs. Steel? Believe me, I know from experience. Our AL B-series blocks are as soft as butter. (Ever try tapping threads on a B-series block? It's like butter compared to an iron block.)

                                            Also, IdntGlwIglisten, why not go CRVtec? You already are looking into going with a high breathing head, with the crower cams. If I were you, my next step would be a built B16 head.

                                            -Andrew

                                            Comment


                                              #23
                                              I was thinking about going VTEC..

                                              But now that I have a P8R head, im sticking non vtec.

                                              It'll be fun anyways, to look stock. =)

                                              Comment


                                                #24
                                                i wish my head was a P8R... i guess ill have to wait til i build one up

                                                Comment


                                                  #25
                                                  Originally posted by IdntGlwIglisten
                                                  I was thinking about going VTEC..

                                                  But now that I have a P8R head, im sticking non vtec.

                                                  It'll be fun anyways, to look stock. =)
                                                  Considering how extensive your hardware is, and your 11.5:1 C/R, I think the next area where you'll make the most HP, is with Vtec. You can still have a modest idle, with bigger vtec cam lobes. Plus generally, there is more lift and duration to be had with Vtec cams, than non-vtec cams.

                                                  IMHO, with your 2.0 ltrs, and high C/R, and non-vtec, it's sorta an uphill battle with volumetric efficiency. Even with extensive porting, and oversized valves, 5-angle valve job, big cams, etc...the gains won't be as significant, if you did equivalent work with a vtec head. The increase in volumetric efficiency with Vtec, is more exponential upon crossover, whereas with non-vtec, the increase is linear, and then generally flattens.

                                                  I think with all of the work you've done, not going Vtec, will make things as difficult as ship sailing. If they make motors for boats, why not use it?

                                                  -Andrew

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