98 JDM B20B
Crower 403’s
Crower dual valve springs & retainers
AEM cam gears
B&M FPR
JE 11.5:1 Pistons
Eagle Rods
ACL bearings (might end up going honda OEM, instead…)
APR Head Studs
APR Rod Bolts
Apex’i SAFC for tuning
The car has other mods, but this is all that relates to the motor, I suppose.
I’m gonna toss on a new timing belt, water pump, and tensioner, as well. Some new seals and a new headgasket. Other than that I think it should be okay.
I’m open to suggestions, as to anything else anyone thinks I should do before installation. This is my first motor swap. Thanks.
Actually from what Vince (notstock93) and I have been talking about if you replace the Rod Bolts (which he did) then he’ll hvae no problem revving that high.
Your build is almost Identical to mine, except Im keeping the stock bottom end (for now) but Ill be runnign 62403’s, DVS’, skunk2 Cam Gears, Custom Intake Manifold, GE Fuel Rail and FPR, Prelude (92-96) 345cc Injectors, JDM ITR 4-1 header and most likely an SAFC for tuning. But I wish you luck with your build.
you and i have had our differences… yet we seem to be building the same motor.
i just finished dropping in my '00 B20Z with 84.5 Endyn pistons (10.7 CR) , shot peened rods, arp bolts and studs, yada yada yada, im breaking it in on a stock head and then ill be dropping in some 404s. id really really suggest the 404s if its not too late, you might be dissapointed in the 403s if youve done all this work. 404s with that build can get you 180hp with 140 tq easy. thats my goals. you might wanna check out Neptune for your tuning needs
EvilOlive - I already have the 403’s in the head, assembled…
Unless I sell the 403’s and purchase 404’s, im stuck with 403’s. This is my daily driver, which I put a -lot- of miles on, so I’d like to get somewhat decent fuel milage, which I dont think will be possible, with 404’s.
What does everyone think about injector size? Stock b20b injectors okay? Or use my 345’s? Break it in with the stock ones then mess around with the 345’s so I dont wash out my rings?
balancing your motor just be considered a necessity when building a motor. Any good machine shop will pretty much force you to balance your bottom end, there shouldnt be any question to it
A little off topic but…I’m doing new cams in my b18a1, i was wondering if i have to take the head off to set the 1 and 4 cylinders to TDC to allign them or is there an easier way?
The cam gears, crank pulley, distributer rotor and pistons themselves can show you TDC. Sounds like you could use a manual in a bad way. Even a $15 Haynes will give you step by steps, and torque specs, which are very important if you are going to be doing cam swaps and such.
You will need to balance your bottom end. End of story. The rods should be re-sized after you have your ARP rod bolts installed and the netire rotating ass’y will need to be balanced.
345’s are overkill for that setup. I’d suggest RC 270’s. You have no way of trimming back injector duty cycle (ie hondata) so 345s will be too big.
I would aso just run stock retainers. Titanium retainers are susceptible to galling and are an item that needs to be checked/replaced on a regular basis.