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Going turbo!!!

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Going turbo!!!

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    Going turbo!!!

    So, I helped my friend boost his BMW 318 IS yesterday. His car bsolutely hauls ass on stock boost, running 12.5 AFR. He gave me his extra turbocharger with blown seals for helping him with the project. I'm going turbo!!! Here are some pix. Your thoughts, ideas, or any info about this turbo will be appreciated.

    Here are the numbers from the turbo:

    S/N EJM21774
    P/N 466672-9002

    Thanx!



    #2
    thats a pretty small turbo. what is your definition of "haulin ass"? my b16 teg is boosted and its pretty fast, but not as fast as i would like, and i run 10lbs on a 57trim t3/t4 turbo, which with the turbo you have there it would take about 15to17 lbs to do the same thing

    Comment


      #3
      Well, I know "hauling ass" is not an exact number, but I'd say he's got 170-180 WHP.

      My goal: ~200 WHP on 7-10 PSI on stock internals. Maybe lower the CR a little and run 12 PSI.

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        #4
        You have not truly hauled ass sir. But good luck on your project!

        MantisX

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          #5
          agreed, you don't know what haulin ass is. 200 whp on that car is maybe a low 14's car, you might break 13's in a teg with 200, but it takes 300 or more to get to 12's in a da

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            #6
            OK! OK! Let's flame the slow guy. It's not a race car I'm building. Just wanna be faster than my friends.

            Comment


              #7
              okay okay lighten up guys. lol But they do have a point man. 180whp. give me a break. Thats easy to hit with an all molor setup. And 200 whp is easily a high 13 sec teg. I mean cmon. Our cars arent that damn slow.. But Really kid. You wanna go boost. your in for a whole lot of reading. read up learn save your money. BUY THE RIGHT crap the first time. Especially on a manifold. because yes.. its true. they crack!

              Comment


                #8
                I wasnt flaming at all sir, just stating fact.

                MantisX

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                  #9
                  It's all good, guys. Yeah, I've been doing a lot of reading lately. I know how fast Tegs can get. I have seen 500+ HP monsters on here, but I'm not into that. Almost all my friends have boost, I just wanna keep up. Becides, I got that turbo for free. I was gonna go Hi Comp LS/VTEC, but after pricing it out, the "right stuff " is just too damn much. This is a budget build. I know boost and budget don't blong in one sentence, but we made it work on my friend's BMW. I'm a weldor by trade, so that helped cut some of the cost.

                  So far here's my set up idea:

                  Cast iron manifold
                  That Garrett turbo with internal wastegate
                  -Compressor Trim: 50
                  -Turbine Trim: 69
                  -Compressor Housing a/r: .42
                  -Turbine Housing a/r: .48

                  DSM injectors (not sure what size yet, suggestions?)
                  ebay pipe kit and intercooler
                  Rising rate FPR
                  Maybe a bigger fuel pump
                  PLX Wideband to run it all

                  That's it. Total comes out to about $1000 give or take.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I would reconsider the rising rate FPR and just get a good ECU to run it.

                    just my .02 cents

                    Comment


                      #11
                      what about your oil feed, oil return, blow off valve, downpipe, exhaust?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        About the FPR. Yeah, I would proably be better off getting a basemap burned for my set-up, and use PLX to run it. But we'll see. I'm on a budget. I thought about running Turbo Edit, but it will require a chip burner, an emulator and dyno time and a lot of $$$ to tune. Professional tuning is out of the question for me. Maybe later.

                        Exaust and downpipe - I can fabricate myself.
                        Blow off valve - I'll prowl the local junkyards for this.

                        It comes on boosted Saabs and some Volvos. Or you can get it for $12 on ebay. That's what my friend used, it works great.
                        Oil and coolant lines - I'm hooked up with the local hose and fittings supplier.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          if your not going to get a proper tune dont waste your time. ever wonder why so many people's turbo setups fail? because they dont tune and run on basemaps and other piggyback systems that dont work.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            you have no idea what you are getting into. first of all, high compression and boost don't mix. second of all, you NEED a tune if you want it to last. no, it doesn't have to be a dyno tune, a good street tune is good. your wide band, all its gonna do is tell you how your car is running, its not going to change anything. you don't have to buy a wide band, if you have it tuned, they will have one and you'll be set. next, just save your money and do it right. you might want boost now, but its not worth it if you don't put the proper tuning and parts into it. that cheap blow off valve, not gonna cut it. what your showing us on what you want to do, won't even break you into the 13's before you blow your motor. save up.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Obviously you guys have no idea what PLX is and how it works. Probably bacause there are no posts about it on here at all. Search google, I think you'll be interested.

                              atheworld0 read the whole thread before you post. I said I WAS gonna go hi-comp, but decided to go turbo instead.

                              Thank you both for your input. But I actualy know what I'm doing. Well I know a little...

                              And once again, I don't care about braking into 13's. I don't even race that much. Just wanna be able to keep up with my friends.

                              P.S. Pay attention to this thread, you might learn something.

                              Comment


                                #16
                                you want to keep up with your friends? if your friends car's don't even break 13's, then its not worth keeping up. a stock 09 gt mustang runs 13.8, i mean, come on. your going to do more dammage than good.

                                Comment


                                  #17
                                  This is MY build. If you have any information that could help me complete it, by all means please post. But if you just wanna tell me YOUR OPINION and how to build YOUR WAY, please don't post.

                                  Comment


                                    #18
                                    not build my way, the right way, i'm just saying, your going to break stuff if you don't do it right. trying to help, not bash. put the correct stuff into it, don't just piece stuff together that you get from friends

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                                      #19
                                      Sorry, man. I know you're just trying to help, but I don't see anything wrong with the set-up that I'm gonna be running. The only thing I got from my friend is a turbo. It's being rebuilt right now by a reputable shop. It will be balanced and have a new wastegate actuator put on it. The other thing I will have that's "used" is a BOV. The rest is brand new. Motor has good compression, and has been maintained regularly.

                                      This is how it goes
                                      CHEAP
                                      FAST
                                      RELIABLE

                                      Pick any TWO. There's no free lunch. I'm going for cheap and reliable. Sure it won't be as fast as a V8, but it will be fun to drive. That's all I'm looking for. And when I get used to it, and when the funds are available, I'll build another B18 the "right" way.

                                      P.S. It's not like I'm throwing an ebay turbo kit on without additional fuel. This is my daly driver right now. The last thing I want to do is blow it up.

                                      Comment


                                        #20
                                        what are you tuning it with? what size injectors? fmu isn't going to cut it

                                        Comment


                                          #21
                                          OK, I'm gonna run either DSM 450 or the next size down, 390 I think, haven't done the research on that yet. Probably 390. 450 seems too big. I'll get a basemap burned for my set-up from xenocron. Scrap the FMU idea, it's safer this way.

                                          Now, I'm only going to tune for AFR, that's what PLX wideband is for. Most widebands out there just display your AFR number, thats it, right. Well this one's different. It replaces your O2 sensor, then actualy overrides the signal to the ECU to modify your fuel curve ON THE FLY. Trust me dude, this thing is golden. Check out their website plxdevices.com, they got some cool videos on youtube too about how their shit works.

                                          I undersand that tuning for AFR only will not get me the most power, but it will be safe and reliable.

                                          P.S. Can't do anything to the ignition curve though. Will have to leave it stock.

                                          Comment


                                            #22
                                            Originally posted by mr_djsonic View Post
                                            OK, I'm gonna run either DSM 450 or the next size down, 390 I think, haven't done the research on that yet. Probably 390. 450 seems too big. I'll get a basemap burned for my set-up from xenocron. Scrap the FMU idea, it's safer this way.

                                            P.S. Can't do anything to the ignition curve though. Will have to leave it stock.
                                            get the 450 always good to be a little bigger than needed and they r wayyy easier to find than the 390. Dont wanna be prohibited by injectors for power and safty reasons. and i HIGHLY suggest doing something about the ignition timing it makes or breaks set ups alot of times. besides is the extra 400-600 bucks really that much of a breaking point when you can use it for your other more powerful set up to?

                                            Comment


                                              #23
                                              Originally posted by mr_djsonic View Post
                                              OK, I'm gonna run either DSM 450 or the next size down, 390 I think, haven't done the research on that yet. Probably 390. 450 seems too big. I'll get a basemap burned for my set-up from xenocron. Scrap the FMU idea, it's safer this way.

                                              Now, I'm only going to tune for AFR, that's what PLX wideband is for. Most widebands out there just display your AFR number, thats it, right. Well this one's different. It replaces your O2 sensor, then actualy overrides the signal to the ECU to modify your fuel curve ON THE FLY. Trust me dude, this thing is golden. Check out their website plxdevices.com, they got some cool videos on youtube too about how their shit works.

                                              I undersand that tuning for AFR only will not get me the most power, but it will be safe and reliable.

                                              P.S. Can't do anything to the ignition curve though. Will have to leave it stock.
                                              not a safe way to go. the safe way, is to get it tuned on chrome. thats the safe way. second of all, your tlling me that the plx somehow tells your computer to put more fuel in? is it like a apexi avfcII?

                                              Comment


                                                #24
                                                450s it is. Blue tops, right?

                                                I don't know anything about AVFCII, so can't really compare. But, PLX is a self calibrating wideband that replaces your O2 sensor and taps into your ECU in it's place. You just wire it in. It is very very simple, especialy for OBD0.

                                                "Simple = less shit to go wrong."

                                                It will always try to add or take out fuel as nessesary to run stoichiometric. As long as you have injectors big enough for the ammount of air you're trying to push into the engine it will work.

                                                I was skeptical when I first heard of it. But when I helped my friend install it and saw it at work, it all made sence.
                                                Last edited by mr_djsonic; 02 Aug 2009, 20:29:02. Reason: Text

                                                Comment


                                                  #25
                                                  Originally posted by mr_djsonic View Post
                                                  Now, I'm only going to tune for AFR, that's what PLX wideband is for. Most widebands out there just display your AFR number, thats it, right. Well this one's different. It replaces your O2 sensor, then actualy overrides the signal to the ECU to modify your fuel curve ON THE FLY. Trust me dude, this thing is golden.
                                                  This can be confusing. from what I read on there website is that it has a narrowband and wideband output to the ECU. most widebands out there do this. I think you confuse this to be able to set parameters for your car to run safely, right? wrong, it will give your ecu an o2 input and from there, your ecu can adjust afr's depending on ect, iat, and other factors, but not to the degree that you think it will like a fuel controller like the VAFC, power FC...etc.(manipulate the O2 input using RPM, TPS, o2 input and other factors). there are fuel controllers out there and I think that's what you thought this PLX does but it does not.

                                                  your best bet is still to find someone that can street tune it or tune it yourself using a burner and learning Turboedit or any other management system. it doesn't take much of any mistake to blow an engine. I know this is your DD, so be safe in making the right choices and always take the info. provided here into consideration.

                                                  *VERY IMPORTANT* a basemap is just that and is not for you to rip to redline on it, just safe enough to get you to a reputable tuner!!! remember that!!!

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