i have 63.5i kappa’s, and like neil said, you have to cut the basket.
no, just take the dum stock basket out…
Use the adapter that came with those Kappas to adapt to a 3-bolt pattern. Infinity’s will fit in the front perfectly…
They may fit, but not perfectly :giggle: There are 3 things you have to remember when mounting a speaker, skip any one of them, the speaker will not work as well as it can.
1- the speaker must be mounted to a flat surface.
2- the speaker needs an airtight seal between the front and rear of the speaker for a distance of, the diameter of the speaker, from the outside edge of the speaker all the way around, [ or as close as you can get to an airtight seal ] eg. a 6.5" speaker should be sitting in the middle of a 19.5" surface that air can not pass through, [ no I don’t mean a 19.5" flat surface] and the closer to the speaker the more important it is that its airtight.
3- MASS… The more mass the speaker is mounted to the better it will sound, and so far, no one has found anything better then wood to use for that mass, [ a speaker mounted to wood will always sound better then a speaker mounted to anything else, (mass being equel)].
The speaker that fits most Hondas is a standerd 6.5" slim line, the stock speaker that comes with the car is a standerd 6.5" slim line, if you want a speaker that will fit without mods, take the OEM speaker or the OEM speaker housing with you when you shop for new speakers, or at the very least measure the mounting depth and mounting diameter of the stock speaker 
That all said, its not that hard to make a custom speaker housing so you can fit the speakers you have, and get the best possible sound out of them, this is a true- isem, a properly mounted smaller cheeper speaker will always outperform an improperly mounted bigger more expensive speaker.
The most important part of the custom speaker housing is its base, [ the part that is going to mount to the door, useing the OEM housing as a template, cut the back off the OEM housing, flush with the mounting flange, trace the shape, including the 4 mounting holes and the speaker hole onto a piece of 1/4" MDF, useing 3 1/2" screws, screw 2 1/4" pieses of MDF together, one with the tracing and another one, so when you cut and sand into shape you make 2 exactly the same, put the screws inside the speaker hole that you will cut out later, cut and sand to shape, drill out the 4 mounting holes, [1/8 drill bit] then cut out the speaker hole, [ don’t forget the hole you cut out, only has to be a little bigger then the speakers magnet, not as big as the stock speakers mounting diameter that you traced] also don’t forget when the plates come apart open them like a book, so you have one that is a mirror image of the other mark them as left and right.
To get the airtight seal you will have to countersink the mounting holes FROM THE BACK about 1/16" to allow for the hight of the plastic screw inserts in the door, mount the plates, measure the depth you have from the glass to the outside of the plate, subtract 1/8" [for clearence] measure mounting depth of speaker, subtract what you already have to the front of the mounting plate, you now have the thickness of the depth reduceing ring that you need to make, it will have an outside diameter the same as the speaker, a little bigger will not hurt , but not so big that it covers the mounting holes, the inside diameter will be the speakers mounting diameter, center and glue the rings to the mounting plate, water proof the housings, [fiberglass resin works very well] install some Dynomat, [or the like] on the door where the housings go, cut out the hole, [use the cutout directly behind the speaker inside the door] mount the housing, mount the speaker, you have it all FLAT, AIRTIGHT, MASS, WOOD the speakers will sound great. :blah: :rockon:94
I got Alpine 6 1/2 all around. Took the ones i had for the front back and the guy said i had to cut the basket and the would fit after screwing them to the basket itself. And they work and sound great.
i have alpine 61/2 compnent too but they are too high, i had to cut the plastic factory grill. Look nice now cause we can see them in the doors but i have a sealing problem, ill make a deep closed cavity for summer so it will sound even better
Your having sealing problems ? is your teg a 2 door or 4 door ? Oh wait or did you just leave the covers off ?
while on the topic of installing 6.5"s …
I got a 91 LS sedan and I need to know (dont worry, i’ve SEARCHED) how to remove the stock door speaker covers (do you pry em off, unscrew something, remove the entire door panel?). Since you all seem quite versed on the subject, how about a thorough step by step for an amateur?
“while on the topic of installing 6.5"s …”
That was a month and 10 days ago… Just pull them off.
grab at the bottom and pull, they pivot outward and then slide off.
i removed the stock speaker basket from my door, and make some mdf ring and i was able to install my cdt 6.5
Kenwood 6.5
I bought Kenwood 6.5 through Crutchfield on basis of the spec’s alone. 30hz -3500 frequency response. I dreaded cutting/modifying the doors, but these fit perfectly and sound great!!! Bottom end actually sounds decent. Select 160 FIE to filter highs in the rear and I am passing on the subs.
Strongly recommend the site. Head unit, speakers and amplifier ordered separately ($20 off $100, free shipping) every has arrived the next day and instructions have been dead on. Wiring harness and face plate were perfect.
I cannot believe the sound I am getting out of this under $400 system - Pioneer base model WMA Head; Alpine Amplifier; Kenwood 6.5 x 4.
my alpine 6.5" compnent set fit when i just used the atapter plate. i did have to make new holes in the door.
MAKE SURE YOUR WINDOWS ARE ROLLED UP WHEN YOU DO THAT! lol