Im friggin pissed off. Im running out of ideas. Im going to get my battery load tested tomorrow, but somehow I dont think thats going to fix it. Ive changed my grounds, and all of my power supply wires. Is there anyway my capacitor could be affecting this? maybe its faulty. Im so frustrated, what next, I mean, the problem has to be electrical.
one thing I noticed that you had said is that you were checking for continuance at each end of whatever wires you were testing. You should also check what the wire is touching, for insance, if it was a battery ground test for continuity from the battery’s terminal to the frame (sometimes there is paint on the frame, you’ll have to find a good clean spot to get good results). You have said that this happens when you engage the clutch, if you shift rouph then that shakes the cables in the car. get a friend over, and while you test for continuity have them shake the wire gently (about as much as your shift would). if you see the continuity change drastically, their might be a break in the wire somewhere and it may need to be replaced (kinda a “your call” if it should be replaced or not, but wires are typically not that expensive, so I’d just replace anything that looks suspicious). make sure your not moving the continuity tester connections much while their shaking the wire though, if you do you may be just losing connection with the tester and the connection point your testing. Thats the… “ultra-throough” way to do it, but I have no idea what happens inside the actual engine control systems.
For some more thought, from what I assume your engine isn’t having trouble running when all this happens. The engine runs off it’s alternator so even if you disconnect the battery the engine will still run, but the lights and the dash all run on a parallel circuit powered through the battery (the alternator, due to charging the battery, will power all of those items I just mentioned). This probably means that your engine grounds are good, it’s a main ground near the battery (because if it wasn’t near the battery, only a few of the lights etc would be affected, for instance every light is supposedly connected to it’s own personal ground).
I had/have (haven’t confirmed I fixed it yet) a problem with my acura similar to yours and it was that the negative battery terminal was too small for the ground cable attachment (I got the car recently and I guess some half-ass person replaced the cable at some point with one that was too big for the battery terminal?). Make sure that’s nice and clean, it can cause a lot of wierd things to happen as well. don’t get your hopes up with that though, mine was exactly like I had just started my car (seat belt beeping noise, stereo turns on, all the lights blink to see if their backlighting is still working etc) and you don’t seem to have that, so your problem is probably farther into the electrical system.
if you know how to use schematics they have them in the Chilton manual, thats how I know that the stuff your having problems with “runs off the battery” and not the alternator (as I said, technically both, but a bad wire on the battery negates the alternator’s effort to power the electricals in the car).