How low is your car? and do you have all the dowel pins in place a misalignment with the block and trans can cause the same effect as having a super low fwd and launching it hard with out preloading the suspension.
Did your axle snap?
How are the splines on the CV’s
axle’s are fine and didn’t snap.yes everything is aligned with tranny and block. but there is actually a piece in the rear of block which is missing. i small piece where the screw goes for the T bracket the 2 screws on the T bracket bolt up fine but the one that connects the tranny to the block cannot bolt up.
car is not that low here is a picture.
this is what i was talking about…could this be the problem??
yea that poses an issue, mainly that if all the other bolts done align, then u have less keeping the motor/trans in the right spot. everything has to be aligned in a sense. u won’t really know kind of threat this poses until u mate everything up and try putting a load on the car (driving it). if anything i’d ask around certain machine shops or whatever and see if they can weld some of that back up so u can still use that mounting point.
could someone tell me how many dowel pins are on the block where you connect the tranny? also my clutch was adjusted all the way at the top. it was disengaging right at the top…would that be another problem that caused the differential to break?>
if i remember there are only 2 dowel pins, but don’t quote me on that cuz its been over a year since i have R&R’d the transmission. but if the clutch was engaging that far up, then that was out of spec…and should have been adjusted. but that would only have caused u to burn up ur clutch. if it had to get all the way up there to release, then the clutch that means the pressure plate wasn’t fully settled on the clutch disk during driving… its like driving with ur foot on the clutch pedal with a good amount of weight on it… which isn’t good.
have u tried replacing ur shift linkage and stabilizer rod/shaft/linkage thingy?
I still didn’t get a new tranny…still looking. but I got the new axles,half shaft and linkage.just now waiting on a tranny.
I asked a person that has built over 100 honda motors and he said its because of my block that the 2nd tranny blew,and because my motor mounts are bad.
[QUOTE=92 CiviC H/B;2041798]I still didn’t get a new tranny…still looking. but I got the new axles,half shaft and linkage.just now waiting on a tranny.
I asked a person that has built over 100 honda motors and he said its because of my block that the 2nd tranny blew,and because my motor mounts are bad.[/QUOTE]
well… i thought we mentioned that the mounts could’ve been an issue? well if the motor isn’t sitting where it should sit, then the linkage wouldn’t position the tranny in the right gear… were u motor mounts bad? like torn all the way or something? cuz if so… u should always eliminate all other existing issues b4 moving to the next.
they are not torn all the way.but the front and back one are pretty bad. before the tranny blew when i shift gears id hear a bang.
that bang is ur motor hitting ur firewall… that should’ve given a pretty big indicator that u have an issue and that ur mounts are torn.
i only have one dowel pin. its in the pics. the other is not there.
get new mounts my friend asap before u even get the tranny just get some new oem ones or avid for a lil more stiffness
well he might need more than a motor mount. he might need a new block or some serious work to that to make it safe. also u need the 2 dowel pins for the block/tranny.
then make sure u get ALL of your mounts replaced. front, rear, top tranny, and driver motor mount.
yeah i am in the process of changing then…and man the rear on is PITA!!
not really. if u use a combination of extensions and swivels and/or wobbles, u can get that no problem. recently i did mine with the motor out of the engine bay so it made it easy but i’ve also replaced it with the motor in the car. in the past, i used a jack under the motor to hold it steady, then removed the IM cuz i wanted to replace the IM gasket anyways, then… i removed the t-bracket. with that off, remove the 2 front bolts. after, try and loosen the very rear bolt to the mount (if u can), if u can’t just go ahead n get a dead blow mallet or a mallet or a big hammer and u smack the mount so that it pivots/rotates clockwise on that last bolt. when u do that, u will gain more access to that bolt. voila. i’m sure there are other ways but that has usually came out with the least amount of frustration when doing it at home.
for installation some have “pounded” or dented that lil section of the firewall that gets in the way a bit. its an ok way to do it. personally, i put the rear bolt, got it decently snug by hand, then got the socket and placed it on the bolt, swiveled the mount into place, then got the other 2 bolts started. i had more sockets so it wasn’t an issue. then shoved the extension thru the gap between the mount n firewall to that last bolt and tightened it up, then the rest, making sure to torque them all to spec, just like every bolt there. don’t forget to get ur socket back tho.
there is a possibility of just getting the socket thru onto the rear bolt… then getting lots of extensions or some really long 3ft ones or something, so that u don’t have to remove so much… but its kinda tough. u’d have to make sure u have the swivels, and the wobble extension is extremely handy for being the one going into the socket tho. doing it this way doesn’t require removal of IM and doesn’t require swinging/rotating of the mount.
i had some what the same problem but i havent got a tranny jet so mine broke from the bottom leaving the gas station ever since that i havent got a new tranny but planning to buy one soon