Timing off? Bogging at low RPMS moreso when the A/C is on

ASSISTANCE Stock Engine-Bay Components
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[QUOTE=Squeezethis;2044634]good to hear man. so u are saying he timed the engine without jumping the service connector? another reason i have never bothered having an obd1, even tho i want to convert one of these days.

a stretched belt can affect mechanical timing in high rpms. regarding the rust on the distributor. it is true that powdered rust is usually a sign of grinding of rusty parts together, but if u do hear noises then thats definitely the indicator that the bearing is going. i dunno if its possible to change just the bearings, but i’d rather just get another distributor by then.[/QUOTE]

No, he did have to jump the service connector after consulting the computer he said. So a stretched timing belt can cause hiccups at high RPMs? I’ll start saving up for a new distributor then :frowning:

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Stretched timing belt? How does he know this? Sounds like he’s talking out his ass. If the belt is stretched then the timing will be off and needs to be replaced. I’ve never seen this. When timing belts go bad they usually break apart. It’s sort of all or nothing with a timing belt.

If your dist bearing is going out then you need to replace the distributor housing, you can’t just replace the bearing. If the bearing seizes it will cause your timing to jump some teeth or it will destroy your timing belt. Not something you want to happen if it can be prevented.

Jeff, I’m gonna have to completely disagree with you about the distributor. The distributor CAN NOT be installed wrong. You’re simply mistaken about this one. Camshaft rotates once, distributor rotor also rotates once. There is no gear reduction within the distributor causing it to spin at a different rate.

If the distributor rotated slower than the camshaft you would end up with spark only in two cylinders when you need it in four.

One rotation of the camshaft = two rotations of the crankshaft. This means that each cylinder has gone through it’s full four strokes. That means four sparks needed to occur during that cycle. One rotation of the distributor = 4 sparks. Half a rotation would have only yielded two sparks.

So again, you CAN NOT install the distributor incorrectly. The rotor spins at the same rate as the cam. The rotor only fits the dist in one orientation. And the dist only fits the cam in one orientation.

If you still don’t believe me please find multiple sources of documentation to backup your theory.

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[QUOTE=Colin;2044650]Stretched timing belt? How does he know this? Sounds like he’s talking out his ass. If the belt is stretched then the timing will be off and needs to be replaced. I’ve never seen this. When timing belts go bad they usually break apart. It’s sort of all or nothing with a timing belt.

If your dist bearing is going out then you need to replace the distributor housing, you can’t just replace the bearing. If the bearing seizes it will cause your timing to jump some teeth or it will destroy your timing belt. Not something you want to happen if it can be prevented.

Jeff, I’m gonna have to completely disagree with you about the distributor. The distributor CAN NOT be installed wrong. You’re simply mistaken about this one. Camshaft rotates once, distributor rotor also rotates once. There is no gear reduction within the distributor causing it to spin at a different rate.

If the distributor rotated slower than the camshaft you would end up with spark only in two cylinders when you need it in four.

One rotation of the camshaft = two rotations of the crankshaft. This means that each cylinder has gone through it’s full four strokes. That means four sparks needed to occur during that cycle. One rotation of the distributor = 4 sparks. Half a rotation would have only yielded two sparks.

So again, you CAN NOT install the distributor incorrectly. The rotor spins at the same rate as the cam. The rotor only fits the dist in one orientation. And the dist only fits the cam in one orientation.

If you still don’t believe me please find multiple sources of documentation to backup your theory.[/QUOTE]

So the car has just under 150,000 miles. I hear timing belts need to be replaced every 90,000 miles…is it safe to say the previous owner would’ve had to change the timing belt once or can they last up to 150,000 miles? It’s an expensive repair and the past two months I’ve dumped ~$1200 on the car (A/C compressor replaced and power steering hose replaced, plus replaced some worn suspension parts)…so I want to see how long I can wait before replacing the timing belt…
The distributor doesn’t make any noise to indicate the bearings are bad…just saw the same powdered rust inside mine as with the bad one at the shop.

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[QUOTE=Squeezethis;2044671]well u CAN inspect ur belt and check for cracks or missing teeth or anything. the worst the condition, the more important it is to replace. u have to be the judge of it tho… some ppl are still running on their original timing belt at that mileage, and some take it very far to like 200,000 miles. some ppl have their belt rip sometimes at like 120,000. its kind of a chance thing… u never know when it will snap, also depends what kind of stress u put on it.

that is the reason they call it preventive maintenance… so that u can prevent it from breaking or ripping or destroying itself or GOING BOOM! :angel:[/QUOTE]

Damn that’s another $500 easy to replace the timing belt…UGH my other integra was problem free…maybe that’s why it got stolen :frowning:

http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186119&highlight=nikko

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Jeff, I really don’t want to be an asshole, but seriously, you need to cool it a little bit on here. Your intentions are good, you’re trying to help people. But often your information is wrong and/or misleading. You should not be making any post which you cannot backup with MULTIPLE sources. Don’t post something you think you remember, or something you heard once, or are pretty sure you know. Only post if you KNOW something. 100%. FOR SURE. DEFINITELY. Willing to bet an organ on…

I was young here a long time ago and taking every opportunity to post what I thought I knew. Luckily most of the time it was true. But really, posting something you “think” you know is worthless here. It’s that sort of posting that has ruined Honda-tech. And why if I’m looking for info I rarely believe any new posts on g2ic. You have absolutely no idea how much complete and utter bull shit gets posted on here. It’s completely rampant. I’d have to say 30-40% of the info currently being posted on this site is bullshit. Lies, hearsay, whatever, it’s just wrong. There are people like me who don’t want people to be fooled but at the same time it takes too much effort to correct ever single instance. It’s not worth my time.

Research something before you post. Do not just post because you think you remember something from a recent post. That post was probably wrong. I’ve been on this site for nearly 10yrs now, I can take apart a G2 in my sleep, but guess what, I still regularly spend time double checking what I post. I look up extra info while I’m helping others to ensure my answers are right.

I urge you, please, think before you post, research before you post. You are, or are at least trying to be a trusted name here on G2ic. You are not immature, you are not wreckless, and your info sounds legit. Unfortunately your info is, on a very regular basis confusing and often blatantly incorrect.

Please, stop making excuses, stop explaining yourself. The rotor thing is bullshit. It’s irrelevant. There is NO info to be gained by looking at the rotor. Your post above is so incredibly vague it’s scary. You’re saying it doesn’t matter how it lines up, but then the rotor should line up. but then it shouldn’t really be 100% correct because the difference between 16BTDC and TDC… Give it up, that’s WAY more confusing than it is helpful. There is mechanical timing, and there is ignition timing. Neither of which have anything to do with how the rotor is aligned. Rotor alignment and distributor alignment are CONSTANTS in this equation, NOT VARIABLES.

EDIT
Forgive if I’m being harsh. But I’ve been drinking, and I’m really tired of mis-information on this site. It makes life harder for everyone.

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my bad then.

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Colin… For the record, and I put this in the OP’s other post, I have installed my distributor with the rotor out 180 degrees before. The distributor won’t sit as flush to the head as it does when its correct, but it won’t stop you from bolting it on anyway if you don’t know any better. I thought the same thing about it being keyed to only go in one way, and so I didn’t even check it when the car wouldn’t start for like an hour… Finally, I turned the rotor 180 degrees and put the distributor back on and it started back up.

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That sort of mistake should be pretty easy to notice immediately, and this is the first I’ve ever seen someone do that before. When installed 180deg off the distributor is visually installed incorrectly, this should be pretty obvious. One shouldn’t even be putting those bolts in place until the dist is mated flush with the head.

You can also start threading a bolt w/ the wrong thread pitch into many holes. But common sense should be used when working on cars. After the first turn it gets snug. That doesn’t mean you grap the ratchet and force it in…

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[QUOTE=Colin;2044781]That sort of mistake should be pretty easy to notice immediately, and this is the first I’ve ever seen someone do that before. When installed 180deg off the distributor is visually installed incorrectly, this should be pretty obvious. One shouldn’t even be putting those bolts in place until the dist is mated flush with the head.

You can also start threading a bolt w/ the wrong thread pitch into many holes. But common sense should be used when working on cars. After the first turn it gets snug. That doesn’t mean you grap the ratchet and force it in…[/QUOTE]

haha… That’s good stuff. If you are stuck in a dark parking lot at 4 am working on your car in the dark to get it started and get it home, you might make that mistake as I did. The difference of it being installed right and flush with the head and it not being right and flush is only about a 1/16 of an inch. My statement was only to show the OP that is was possible to do so, not for you to turn into a condescending prick and try to make me look like a moron, which I assure you, I am not.

This is one documented source, as you requested, proving that this can be done… Here is your second documented source, http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194028&page=5 Read #92. The original poster did the exact same thing… I guess you were wrong. Thank you.

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So after you put it in the correct way everything ran fine?

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Yes.

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Ninezero, nice work. This is what I like to see! I’m not going to argue over this, I see what you’re saying. I think it’s a strange viewpoint to have as the distributor doesn’t fit that way. It can be tightened down but should be visibly installed wrong. Again, my analogy of the wrong thread pitch. It won’t fit, but can be forced to. No sense in arguing semantics on this one.

And just to be clear, I was in no way trying to be condescending or put you down personally. I have nothing against you, don’t make it out like I spend my time here playing an e-thug.

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I guess I just took it wrong. :hugs:

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Got the timing belt package replaced…$523…no more bogging, with the a/c on I can start in 3rd gear without bogging…smooooooooooth…belt was stretched so timing was difficult to get perfect