Newer OEM Honda 6 Disc Changer into DA9 . . .

Yes it will.
There is one problem you may run into, your G2 radio harness does not have the “dimmer” lead, [red], it will have the illumination lead, [red/black], the red/black is power for the illumination, [hot when park/head lights are on] the red is the illumination ground, from the “Dash Lights Brightness Controller”, the stock G2 HU and aftermarket HUs only need the red/black illumination power lead, your 01 Accord HU may also need the red, [ground for illumination], if so, you can just ground the illumination to chassis or the black ground lead, and not have the ability to dim the HUs illumination or you can run the ground to the red lead at the lighter or at the lights above the heater control panel.

On the stock G2 HU the illumination lead, [red/black] is used to dim the readout, just like on your clock, it does the same on the 01 HU but some post 98 HUs also had illumination that can be dimmed and needs the red ground lead to work at all. 94

thansk a lot fcm for the help…it cleared up alot of things

Back from the dead . . .

fcm,
Is it possible to add an aftermarket amp to my stock deck? Same deck from this thread, 2001 Accord 6 Disc Changer.

:shrug:

Yes, Did it two weeks ago…I’ll try to post pics later

Thanks :up:

As mentioned, yes.

All you need is either a LOC, something like this… http://www.scosche.com/products/sfID1/151/sfID2/159/productID/999
Or better yet… http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansweep_pages.php?page_id=94

Most good repair shops can also add preamp outputs, [RCA pigtails] to the stock HU.

If all you want to do is add a sub amp the LOC will do, or just find an amp with speaker level inputs. 94

I’m such a Noob when it comes to car audio.
That helped alot. Thanks fcm. :bowdown:

I added a pre amp out to a Factory radio a while back. You will have to do a little work to trace it out. Output is a little low but still better than using loc.




Just curious, if your output is low, how does that make it better than using LOC? Another noob question . . . What does LOC stand for or mean? Wouldn’t using LOC be better since it’s all plug and play?
I’m really interested in knowing now. I’d really like to have an amp and a sub and keep my OEM deck. Not looking for anything fancey, just better sound output and keep everything looking stock. :shrug:

BTW: Thanks for the input and pics Luciferi. :up:

LOC = line output converter.

The difference between using the preamp output and the LOC is SQ, [sound quality] with a LOC you are amplifying an already amplified signal, amplifying a preamp signal will be much cleaner then amplifying an already amped signal…

With that said and because you are just adding the sub amp, a LOC or amp with speaker level input, [I recommend amp w/speaker level input] will do the job. 94

PS, props to Luciferi for the pix of how easy it can be to add pre-outs to a stock HU:up:

Wow Luciferi, thats really really clean. Wish I could have done this to my older deck. Anyways, here are the pics of the harness I made. Not too bad and everything plugs up pretty nice like factory.
[SIZE=“4”]Sodering done[/SIZE]

[SIZE=“4”]All taped up and ready to go[/SIZE]

The ups to using the factory decks are the simpicity of them. The downs are more in terms if you wanted to upgrade to a nice system later, you have to do a line-drop and tap into the switchable power for your amp’s remote turn on.