I’m not hooking it to the wire coming off the switch. I hook it directly to the switch itself, with the wire unplugged
ahhhh ok… since u disconnected the wire that goes to the switch… now the dash light cant come on unless it contacts a ground.
but u are using the test light cuz its hooked up to a the 12v+. it should only turn on if the car was off tho since u said u test it with the car on. unless u had a stuck/malfunctioning oil pressure sensor. u did a dynamic test. but u also have to test it with the car off to be sure it actually does close up and completes the circuit.
The pressure switch will cause a light in the 12v tester to come on if the switch is reading low oil or you got a bad switch. I would start the car and turn it off to double check my findings. U cant test a sensor if the car is off. You’ll never build the pressure in the motor to test the switch. Or take off the oil cap and c if ur getting oil in the top half. Or go change the freakin $7 switch and c what happens.
well u still need to test the sensor with it off, to make sure that the switch does have continuity. its like testing the thermoswitch. u gotta test that it turns on and off.
well, how do i bleed the coolant? seriously im such a noob. dont any of you live close to me? someone should help me before hurtmyself trying to fix something. im an autobody guy and automotive stuff is like trying to read japanese for me.
get a manual man. i’m pretty sure i’ve gotten around to telling every noob that already. try searching “bleeder valve” or something in stock engine bay components. i’ve explained it NUMEROUS times in g2ic already. i’m about to go camera happy and start making new articles with full pics and details.
in super shortness: bleeder valve, next to upper radiator hose near the head. there is a valve there, takes 12mm wrench. start ur car let it warm up to operating temp. then slowly open up that valve (counter clockwise). let coolant slowly dribble out. open it up a bit more til the bubbles/dripping is fast steady even bubbles. then close it up. tighten it decently with ur weaker hand. then u should be good. sometimes repeating the process helps.
so, i know my motor has around 70 to 75k on it but i know this car has been some what raced. so, should i use high mileage 10w40 or high mileage synthetic blend 10w40? my car does burn some oil. and i bled my coolant. it was easy.
just go straight 40 or 50 weight if it burns that bad.
would synthetic hurt my motor?
With a motor that is already sucking oil, dumping expensive oil in it won’t help now. It’s more for keeping healthy engines stay healthy.