Downpipe setup

I said the turbo whistling was cool. But the sound of the engine overpowered the whistling once he got on it. And it definately did sound like Poo Poo. But maybe thats just my opinion

OK, I have never really posted but I kind of was in the same boat. I also have a HKS Hi-Power exhaust and love the way it looks and sounds. But, in the same breath, I knew that 2 resonators and a muffler not to mention the smaller 2.5" diameter would kill my power output. So, I got a manual 3" cutout (not electronically controlled). So the time came when I got tuned and I ended up making 294 WHP and 200 TQ. I never ended up using the cut-out because of the already great, AND QUIET, power I made. Moral of the story, The HKS doesn’t flow as badly as you may think. And it sounds awesome with boost (gets rid of the raspyness). Go here for my dyno graph and set-up info -----> http://www.boosted-hybrid.com/viewtopic.php?t=1328

Thats awesome! :clap: Ive seen that graph before, but i didnt know it was with a hi-power. That sucks because earlier today i ordered a electronic cutout. Oh well its only money. You should post a sound clip of the exhaust so i can hear it.

Why’d you only make 200 ft/lbs? Was it a B16 or something?

How much does a aftermarket crossmember cost?

That sounds about right. a tad bit low but about right with his setup

I made 232 ft/lbs on only 277 whp.

Full race sells them for 450 bucks

You are also running alot more boost.

yeah it’s on sale for 450US right now. regular 475. I got mines for 399 cause I was one of the first to order one hehe. they had it at 399 for the first 10 buyers or something

The point is that my horsepower is less. I guess that could be true though.

He probably made that much horsepower because of the better flowing vtec head. The 9 psi would explain the torque also.

HPs are a measure of power, like Watts.

Usefull formula is P=T*W where T is torque and W RPMs

Therefore high revin engines makes more HPs but no more torque due to their capability of reving higher (plug higher W you get more HP).
God bless mathematics :smiley:

I was just thinking about this setup again, and i was wondering where i would put my o2 sensor. It would have to be before the cutout right? If i had the o2 sensor in the stock location, what would happen when i open the cutout? If i do need to put the o2 sensor before the cutout, could i just extend the wires to get the desired length?

bump

Your ecu only uses your O2 sensor at partial throttle etc. Anything WOT, goes into closed loop and skips the routine to input the O2 readings. Most people put a wideband before the cutout, and O2 after the cutout if room is limited, but for me I will ahve both o2 sensors and wideband before the cutout.

me too

I would rather leave it in the stock location, just because its one less thing i have to do. Is there any benefit to having it before the cutout?