when u leave the fan on it causes the motor to run in closed loop which in turn causes the ecu to dump more fuel and knocks back ign timing since the engine never reaches normal operating temps. just like at first start up (safe mode). at least this is what I learned in class does it count on hondas IDK
Gil
If you want u can come by my school sat or Sunday and you can do a leak down test
cool! what time could i swing by?
Im in class from 8 to 5 so anytime lunch from 12 to 1
6265107392-ryan
actually, i’m just going to replace it seeing as i know that it is already the problem. thanks for offering! you are badass!!!
hmmm… not to be a know it all… but that safe mode theory can be proven wrong. yes true that the car will run in closed loop mode until the motor runs at a certain operating temperature, but what ultimately decides closed loop or open loop mode is the o2 sensor. if that detects that the exhaust gases are spitting out the right amount of o2 then it will throw it into open loop. having ur fan on with “ignition on” or with “on” just causes closed loop to last longer during start ups, whether its morning or nite… just depends on the operating temp. starting up first thing in the morning isn’t much different as starting up at night after the car has been sitting for hours. you’ll know when u are in closed loop by the higher rpms due to more fuel being throw into the motor to help it warm up faster.
there are “tools” that will tell u if u are in closed loop or open loop. i dont’ remember what the tool is called but other tools can also aid in determining if u are in closed or open loop. i think an egt is one of them, or is it air/fuel meter. probably the latter.
regarding the copper spray, it should ONLY be used with headgaskets that do not have that lil silicone lining that goes around the bores n such. either way that copper spray is just a “band-aid” and shouldn’t be used. if the head or block isn’t warped, and is also nice and clean (scraped up old materials or debris), then just using a new oem gasket (or like the kind gil uses =P ) should be fine as long as the proper steps and measures are performed.
oh btw… gil did u modify ur ECT wires or anything? u could look into ur wiring, cuz if ur fans were working fine b4, but aren’t now… then maybe u switched it around with the wrong ones. i did that accidentally, and i switched around the wires. was suppose to be yellow/green or something going ect… but i mixed it with the white/green instead. white/green is suppose to go to engine oil temp. might be vice-versa. just double check cuz both of those wires look VERY VERY similar when they’re old and dirty, or greasy.
i’ll have to look into that. the felpro didn’t have a rubber ring. i went to pick up another felpro but when i showed up to tha zone, they told me they had not received it. i got a refund. i guess i’ll be going to the honda dealership for an SI gasket or to the acura dealer for a b17 one…
gil
how fast do u need that gasket?
[QUOTE=Squeezethis;2026411]hmmm… not to be a know it all… but that safe mode theory can be proven wrong. yes true that the car will run in closed loop mode until the motor runs at a certain operating temperature, but what ultimately decides closed loop or open loop mode is the o2 sensor. if that detects that the exhaust gases are spitting out the right amount of o2 then it will throw it into open loop. having ur fan on with “ignition on” or with “on” just causes closed loop to last longer during start ups, whether its morning or nite… just depends on the operating temp. starting up first thing in the morning isn’t much different as starting up at night after the car has been sitting for hours. you’ll know when u are in closed loop by the higher rpms due to more fuel being throw into the motor to help it warm up faster.
there are “tools” that will tell u if u are in closed loop or open loop. i dont’ remember what the tool is called but other tools can also aid in determining if u are in closed or open loop. i think an egt is one of them, or is it air/fuel meter. probably the latter.
regarding the copper spray, it should ONLY be used with headgaskets that do not have that lil silicone lining that goes around the bores n such. either way that copper spray is just a “band-aid” and shouldn’t be used. if the head or block isn’t warped, and is also nice and clean (scraped up old materials or debris), then just using a new oem gasket (or like the kind gil uses =P ) should be fine as long as the proper steps and measures are performed.[/QUOTE]
THANK YOU! Jeff understands what I was talking about. Running your fan all the time will not directly lead to safe mode. The ecu doesn’t care about the fan, it doesn’t make any decisions based on whether that fan is running or not (especially if it doesn’t know its on because it’s hardwired with your wires and not using the stock switches and relays).
[QUOTE=thatblkguy;2026444]gil
how fast do u need that gasket?[/QUOTE]
i was gonna try to install it tomorrow. so i guess it is an ASAP thing.
…
well, maybe not asap then. i guess i could ride my bike to work a few more days. i should get it done this weekend! i called the honda dealer and they want 80ish dollars for it 
Update for those who care… i opened up the valvecover and saw some condensation and creamy white oil on the cam holders… it looks as if there was steam escaping into the head from somewhere. this is weird since there is no hint of water in the valve galley or the crankcase. the crankcase oil looks clean. i guess its off to the dealership to get a new gasket!
creamy white oil… you need to do a leakdown test, bud.
creamy white oil on the camcaps only. and condensation.
o\\yet another update… i think the creamy substance is moly lube that got trapped in the head and condensation. soooo i went to take off the studs… it took almost no torque to get them off… i’m tempted to just clean the threads and retighten without changing the headgasket. seeing as i already have the oem honda one sitting here, i guess i should just swap it and be done with this issue. hopefully be done with it.
Gotta change the headgasket anytime you remove the head. Sorry bro!
lol i was thinking that i could get away with just tightening it down… decided not to risk it and just swapped it! how have you been?
after taking off the head, i noticed that the outside cylinders were seeping water. so i finished everything up and it’s running very rich, lol. i went to look at the exhaust and it burned my eyes!! i didn’t see any vapor during the day so i guess that was good. i bled the rad in the evening and noticed a little vapor… i am hoping that it’s just evening condensation!!!
OK, so head gasket has been changed?
How do you know it’s running rich? Look? Smell? Reading the plugs?
With compression that high you really should be running some sort of engine management or something to do some basic tuning. Unfortunately I don’t know how to tune and that’s why I’ll be heading to Church.
What ECU are you running? Unfortunately I’m not going to be heading out to the IE for a few more weeks otherwise I’d offer to let you borrow my P30 ecu w/ the map Church originally made for that engine (iirc you’re using Duy’s old block?)
Running rich and washing out my rings is why I’m currently re-rebuilding my b17a… I’m pretty sure this could have been fixed pretty easily with a simple tune when I did the rebuild the first time.