According to team-integra site, the RS weighs around 2557 lbs. It is the lightest model as it has the fewest accessories stock.
I’d take a video of my cold start idle, but it’s no fun watching me constantly trying to start the car 
However, I can take a video of my warm idle.
I’m running an overlap of 4. I’ve never had my car at 0,0, so I don’t know what the difference was. But when you’re building a N/A motor, every little bit counts.
I should add that when i weighed my car, I had the spare tire removed, lighter than stock wheels and a CF hood.
Eclypz–
You mentioned in a previous post that you’ve had it on the dyno. What kind of power are you making?
Does your last post mean that you have a CF hood? How much weight difference does that make?
I’m collecting parts to build a motor with 404’s, so there’s a reason for my curiosity.
CF hood? quite a big difference compared to stock. You can literally feel less weight in the front. Because of the size of our hoods…the OEM one is pretty damn heavy.
i dyno’d 180/141 at the wheels
Eclypz
I was just wondering if you’ve ever had it at the track. With the lowered weight and the increased HP, have you ever been timed in the 1/4?
I’m not a big fan of drag racing and my car really isn’t built for it either.
I tried drag once, before i got the car tuned and it ran a 14.9 with a 2.4 60’ (shitty, i know). I had a full interior and almost a full tank of gas. I know the time can be improved alot, but like i said, i’m not going to spend alot of time learning something that i have no interest in. I also busted both driver and passenger shafts on my 3rd run 
I do more road (aka circuit) racing 
stock hood == 35 - 40lbs (the big sound deadening on some models his heavy)
cf hood == 12-15lbs
Ben
P8r 62404
yeah, i am currently in the process of taking off my old ls head from my b20b (pr3) which i have had since june 143hp121tq. just got the sumbitch on the road last tuesday nite as i smoked my dual friction. got a new centerforce and an xact prolite. loved it. last nite i finally ran door to door with my buddys 5speed modded maxima all the way thru 4th gear. it used to be even in 1n2 then half a car in 3rd then an extra 1 mabye 1.5 cars in 4th, then seeya in 5th with my crap ls gearin.
anyhow i broke 3 cam cap bolts tonite. i guess the guy who put my head on my b20 at finish line was a real psycho. and i didnt have a 13mm 12 point socket(dangit)for ma arp head stud nuts
i just got my b20 head outta goza machine shop friday and just racked up 500 miles on my clutch breakin last nite, so i decided to get a lil crazy
tonite
kindly disapointing since i didnt even get the new head on and the cams in since i couldnt break the fuckers in for lack of a non dual weight viscosity oil and the neighbors would prolly freak out if i held my car at 2500 for 25 minutes
also i was curious to see if i have the phk pistons or the p3f ones.
i know lifes gonna suck with low comp ratio cause i used to have a built ls mota with 10.8 wiescos and even more so with the 404s im puttin in
but i think that since my car was unaturally strong for what little is done to it it should be alright till save to buy endyns long rods with raised wristpin 84.5’s 11.5 ish
i wished id had time to make it to the dynolab with the new flywheel but the speed bug bit me hard a long time ago and so i just cant wait
mostly im mad cause there is no more 24hr auto zones
My Integra dynoed 142 before the flywheel, 404s and P8r head.
I’ll post the post 404/prolite dyno chart asap
thx for the dyno man, here’s a link to the 404’s idling,
http://www.shawnblais.com/crower_404_idle.wmv
wow thats not to bad i like it it sounds mean like its gonna kick some ass what all does ur motor have, as for mine i have a STAGE 1 PORT FRONT AND BACK 5 ANGLE VALVE JOBE STOCK INTERNALS FOR NOW WITH 99 LS CAMSHAFTS AEM CAM GEARS WEAPON R DRAGON INTAKE TYPE R PISTONS WITH TODA SEALS, i am looking to update the head to stage 3 port and also port the manifold and throttle body and i want all CROWER internals alond with the 404’s cams i cant wait…lol, DOES ANYONE ELSE HAVE MORE CLIPS OF THE 404 CAMS IN THEIR LS ENGINES I LOVE TO SEEEEEE.
i’ll go take a vid right now of mine…
I’ll take a cold start and a warm start vid.
COOOOOOOOL cant wait heh :rockon:
Sorry…i couldn’t get a vid of the cold idle, because the car wouldn’t idle on it’s own…I had to keep my foot on the gas to get it to idle, so you wouldn’t hear the idle lope.
i did manage to take a quick 17sec clip of my warm idle, though…this was taken from inside the car with the windows rolled down in my garage…enjoy 
the car wasn’t fully warm yet, so that’s why it died on me once.
please right-click, save as…
because i don’t want my ISP calling me.
http://members.shaw.ca/b_chu/teg/All-motor%20Non-VTEC%20Idle.avi
(350KB audio clip)
after a quick drive around the block, the idle gets a bit better. Keep in mind that my car has been dyno tuned, so i’m running some overlap, hence why the idle seems a bit rougher than Scooby Doo’s
also…here is my dyno plot, for the doubters 
the comparison was against before and after a/f tuning.
my car idles goofy anytime its not warm
like when i pull up to a light, it goes from 800-1200 until it warms up
it doesnt during the summer but anytime its cool out like at night or during the winter, what with the 160 degree thermostat and the new koyo and a lil redline water wetter(im gonna put coolant in it this go round due to the freezing temperatures around the corner) but it takes a little while for it to settle down
god bless that idle, that first clip sounds like a monster, is that your car, scooby? or just a clip u found and posted?
i only hope my car will sound like that
i have 2.5 inch w a gutted magnaflow cat, dynomax race bullet, and borla xr-1, so im hopin
also i have the p3f pistons and the head gasket i bought(b4 i knew better) is a three-layer
and low-compression motors hit a huge lick compared to a higher compression motor with the same cam
just to clarify, that’s not my car it’s a member called VNTEC, he was making in the neighbourhood of 170-180whp, and his build is on here somewhere,
my car idles almost identical to that though.
P8rB20Db8, do you have your dyno with the 404’s in?
yo scoob u should make a vid of it again and reving it i like to hear how that sounds pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
i have not yet dynoed my car as i’ve had a fever and been sick i still have to make it up to the acura dealership to pick up my intake manifold gasket, then break the cams in and change the oil, then i will hit the dynolab
DO YALL THINK I SHOULD GET HONDATA S100 IN BETWEEN BUILDING THE BOTTOM END/RAISNG THE COMPRESSION OR JUST WAIT TILL AFTERWARDS
WHAT COMPUTER SETUPS ARE YOU ALL RUNNIN? f-in caps lock