its happed for the past few days… today it was all rainy not real hot didnt seem as bad still took a few seconds to start i didnt know if the coil was going out or what seems to be fine after you let it sit for a second is there a thread on soldering these things? ill prolly hit my old man up he charges me for everything but it gets done right lol… found the thread u guys are amazing hopefully i will be able to help people like this one day… im gonna keep this gsr till im to old to get down into it lol
lol thats how it should be man. keep it running and keep it clean.
im not the best but i do know wat im talking about i have changed so many of these and being that i work at honda i use to get these problems all the time so i would know how to diag this problem. but i dont think he is willing to drive to cali or jersey to get it diaged from either you or me so he is jus gonna have to figure it out trial n error :think:
who mentioned anything about him driving all the way to anybody’s to get it diagnosed. what we need him to do is tell us the symptoms and perform a few checks. and personally i don’t care if u work at honda. cuz i don’t trust anybody at the dealers cuz i’ve seen the programs that most go thru… the honda pact program… basically an expensive course and a very long one that trains students to basically be glorified lube techs.
i know a few handful of guys at the dealers that i’d trust to maybe do an oil change but thats it.
but ok enough ragging n ranting. if u r a good tech cool. think about how much u would get ur butt reamed if u misdiagnosed a vehicle. u need to verify the issue, do a few checks, and perform some tests. once u confirm what is wrong then u throw the diagnosis. and even here u can’t just throw out its the MFR, cuz we haven’t heard enough.
[QUOTE=Squeezethis;2038961]who mentioned anything about him driving all the way to anybody’s to get it diagnosed. what we need him to do is tell us the symptoms and perform a few checks. and personally i don’t care if u work at honda. cuz i don’t trust anybody at the dealers cuz i’ve seen the programs that most go thru… the honda pact program… basically an expensive course and a very long one that trains students to basically be glorified lube techs.
i know a few handful of guys at the dealers that i’d trust to maybe do an oil change but thats it.
but ok enough ragging n ranting. if u r a good tech cool. think about how much u would get ur butt reamed if u misdiagnosed a vehicle. u need to verify the issue, do a few checks, and perform some tests. once u confirm what is wrong then u throw the diagnosis. and even here u can’t just throw out its the MFR, cuz we haven’t heard enough.[/QUOTE]
watever you say its the main relay for sure they always go bad and he gave enough info for me to determine wat the cause is and my correction would be to install a new main relay and BLK4DB when you install your new mfr you can say rayzda the glorified lube tech told me so.:read: get ya game up
yea jus go out and buy yourself a §§§§§ to and while your at it jus get yourself a new fuel pump and your problems are solved after you spend $400
hmmm… yea… thx for the sarcasm, i love sarcasm. considering u were mentioning $40-50 for an mfr, and he could just repair it himself, or buy a good known working one for like $10 shipped.
its called preventive maintenance tho. u should know things like that since u work at a dealer. if the mfr is going bad, then most likely the distributor will go bad. the cars are almost 20 years old for some of us… if he changes it out now… he can save himself the aggravation of his car acting up later down the road. personally i pick up my distributors used, cuz for about $50-100 it ain’t bad especially since i check to see that they are good or come from someone reputable. and just like last week i picked up a spare distributor (used) for $75, that i’ll be selling to a member that is having a distributor issue, cuz he ALREADY CHANGED the mfr, fuel pump, and other things… and after all that stuff his car still isn’t running. but back on track. lets add that $75 to $10 mfr… wow $85. it wouldn’t be hard to teach any of these guys that have these issues how to R&R it. the fuel pumps can go a pretty long time, i’m lucky to still be on my original one, car has 249k miles, but my b20b has 9k miles.
$85 isn’t bad to get u back up and running and be worry free for a few more years, possibly 5-10.
http://g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193998
if u look into this thread. ppl had to go out spitting “its ur mfr”… and guess what, it wasn’t. and his car still doesn’t start.
[QUOTE=Squeezethis;2039003]hmmm… yea… thx for the sarcasm, i love sarcasm. considering u were mentioning $40-50 for an mfr, and he could just repair it himself, or buy a good known working one for like $10 shipped.
its called preventive maintenance tho. u should know things like that since u work at a dealer. if the mfr is going bad, then most likely the distributor will go bad. the cars are almost 20 years old for some of us… if he changes it out now… he can save himself the aggravation of his car acting up later down the road. personally i pick up my distributors used, cuz for about $50-100 it ain’t bad especially since i check to see that they are good or come from someone reputable. and just like last week i picked up a spare distributor (used) for $75, that i’ll be selling to a member that is having a distributor issue, cuz he ALREADY CHANGED the mfr, fuel pump, and other things… and after all that stuff his car still isn’t running. but back on track. lets add that $75 to $10 mfr… wow $85. it wouldn’t be hard to teach any of these guys that have these issues how to R&R it. the fuel pumps can go a pretty long time, i’m lucky to still be on my original one, car has 249k miles, but my b20b has 9k miles.
$85 isn’t bad to get u back up and running and be worry free for a few more years, possibly 5-10.[/QUOTE]
do you buy everything used yea lets all buy used parts and in the next couple months of using it it will fail and we can jus buy another used part have you ever heard of fix it right the first time
hahahhaha. wow u trying to lecture me? hahhahaha. so funny =) typical honda tech. hmmm… resoldering an mfr = fixing it the right way the first time. its actually better than new.
and regarding the distributor… if its the ignitor that can be replaced. thats mainly the part that goes bad. if the bearing goes i wouldn’t bother rebuilding the distributor.
if ur motor blows, do u get a brand new one from the dealer? or do u buy a used one? or rebuild one? either way is the right fix… CUZ IT FIXES THE ISSUE COMPLETELY.
and realistically, to have a USED distributor last u about 5-10, or maybe even more, will probably outlast the da to the AVERAGE da owner. not all da owners, nor will hardcore da enthusiasts keep their da for their entire life. so to replace parts that will outlast their ownership of the vehicle, or maybe the vehicle itself (cuz some ppl don’t keep that motor anyways)… then why spend so much for new (on distributor) when u are not gonna need it later down the road? u aren’t being realistic and u aren’t being smart with ur money. if u wanna buy brand new every single time go for it.
[QUOTE=Squeezethis;2039025]hahahhaha. wow u trying to lecture me? hahhahaha. so funny =) typical honda tech. hmmm… resoldering an mfr = fixing it the right way the first time. its actually better than new.
and regarding the distributor… if its the ignitor that can be replaced. thats mainly the part that goes bad. if the bearing goes i wouldn’t bother rebuilding the distributor.
if ur motor blows, do u get a brand new one from the dealer? or do u buy a used one? or rebuild one? either way is the right fix… CUZ IT FIXES THE ISSUE COMPLETELY.
and realistically, to have a USED distributor last u about 5-10, or maybe even more, will probably outlast the da to the AVERAGE da owner. not all da owners, nor will hardcore da enthusiasts keep their da for their entire life. so to replace parts that will outlast their ownership of the vehicle, or maybe the vehicle itself (cuz some ppl don’t keep that motor anyways)… then why spend so much for new (on distributor) when u are not gonna need it later down the road? u aren’t being realistic and u aren’t being smart with ur money. if u wanna buy brand new every single time go for it.[/QUOTE]
my da gets the best i dont put used dirty parts in it i buy used only if it comes from a good source but not no junk yard shit remember you get wat you pay for
Guys please let’s not get so hostile…we’re all part of the same community here…
Yeah to each his own.
intresting thread. I’m going to try this MFR fix to see if it’ll solve my problem. Its a cheap start.
yea your right there :werd:
i never said i get junk yard crap. whatever tho. i’m done with arguing with a honda tech.
btw… i do believe in oem. but i also believe that if i can rebuild it better than oem (like the mfr) then i’ll do it myself, considering i trust the end result better. dealer techs… usually have the mentality… if its bad replace it. if a distributor is bad = replace it. a rebuilt distributor (depending on ignitor) can be just as good in performance as a new distributor if done right. things like the wear on the bearing should be taken into account… but its like a block… if there isn’t a hole out thru the wall of the block then u “could” rebuild it.
price of:
a new ignitor < bnib distributor.
resoldered mfr < new mfr
*** and for some ppl they bought it bnib b4 the newer mfr’s were made, so they’ll be running into the same issue that they came in for later down the road, and yes even tho its probably gonna be like an average of 15 years, its still $50.
fuel pump (don’t go any other way other than new cuz some members can give a lil feedback on this… cuz any less than oem or high quality aftermarket (walbro or whatever its called) isn’t worth shiet).
Oh BTW I think my problem is the MFR, today it happened and I was like wait lemme try what people do on this thread. So rather than wait 5 minutes before trying again I just turned the ignition to #1 position for a few seconds then cranked her and she started right up!!!
It was in the mid-80s to boys…scorcher…
[QUOTE=azzurribaggio;2039478]Oh BTW I think my problem is the MFR, today it happened and I was like wait lemme try what people do on this thread. So rather than wait 5 minutes before trying again I just turned the ignition to #1 position for a few seconds then cranked her and she started right up!!!
It was in the mid-80s to boys…scorcher…[/QUOTE]
yea it was a bit hotter today in socal. if u are getting the 3 clicks from ur mfr, then its working fine. what u need to listen for is whether or not the fuel pump primes each and every time u try starting the car. but that requires listening and not trying to start it right away.
Well before when I would hit this problem I would have to wait 2-3 minutes before trying again, else I could just crank away and motor wouldn’t turn over. But today I put it into the #1 position (I didn’t hear any clicks), then cranked it and she started fine! So more than likely the MFR?
if u didn’t hear any clicks of the relay that means its bad. but i don’t think u understand what we mean by relay clicks. position 1, meaning acc? where no dash/cluster lights come on other than radio right? then there’s the “on” position, this is where u get the dash lights pilot check thing. this is where u should hear 3 clicks.
u said u cranked away (on the key) and the motor wouldn’t turn over? meaning u aren’t hearing/feeling the engine rolling over as if almost going to start? if so, when u turned the key… nothing happened, no starter rotating the motor? if thats the case, then u most likely have a starter issue. could be ur starter plunger, ur starter relay, bad connections, bad/dirty battery cables.
like i’ve said MANY MANY times already. details details details. we’re gonna give u the wrong diagnosis if u give us wrong symptoms. so please and be as clear and specific as u can be. thanx.
Squeezethis-
Did you say three clicks? I didn’t know that. I usually hear only one click. Thats if I don’t turn over the engine yet. (lights on the interior a such) I hear a priming sound then following a “click” sound.
You seem more of a guru on this. Can you enlighten me more? I have that problem like the OP.