90-93 Integra Basic Troubleshooting Guide...

Originally posted by radzer0
[B]you say that improper tire size can cause
Excessive fuel consumption

how is that? (other than the fact taking off will need a little more engine because of incresed size?)

[/B]

Tire size affects the speed at which you operate. Smaller tire sizes screws up the odometer by making it look like you’re going faster than you really are, and bigger tires doing the opposite. Wider than stock tires, while giving more grip and braking ability also creates more ground friction, therefore the engine needs to work that much harder to propel the car.

:slight_smile:

Oz

i found out my problem was a vaccum leak… and the motor was dumping more gas to keep it running

One problem I recently had was my 90 Integra RS wouldnt start it wouldn’t make a sound, it wouldn’t try to turn over or anything. I thought it was the starter but come to find out it was the Main Relay Assembly it’s a relay that sits under the dash right under the steering wheel it’ll have Main Relay stamped on it it’s a $89.00 part and it doesn’t gradually go out it just goes.

RE: 90-93 Integra Troubleshooting guide

Thank you SOOO mush for posting this…it has been a big help. :smiley:

Burning Oil / Oil Consumption

common and stressful problem when it happen’s. it always happens on civic’s and teg’s. almost as if it’s a set-up from honda and acura to get clientel. for now on everytime a get a teg or ef i almost ammediately change the MAIN RELAY. when i visit the junkyard, i pocket a few, for “just in case” reasons

Burning Oil

I just got an oil change yesterday and this morning when i went down to start my car, i checked the oil and there was NONE left. I dont understand why this is happening. Does anyone heres know what i can do to fix this problem?

[SIZE=“3”]WHAT CAN HAPPEN AFTER ENGINE CLEANING.[/SIZE]

After cleaning my engine with a spray-on cleaner, I obviously had to use the water hose to rinse it off. Water manages to get into everything, even into the spark plug chamber. So if you start your car up and everything runs fine for a while, you may experience the motor start to struggle, sputter or even backfire. Shut the motor off, and don’t panic, it just means that your plugs and wires are filled with H2O.
Remove the wires and plugs. Blow them dry with compressed air which works really well. also check the distributor cap is also dry. Crank the motor without the plugs and wires installed to get any residual water through, which will only be a very small amount. re-install the completely dry plugs and wires, crank the motor and everything should be running fine.

[SIZE=“3”]DISTRIBUTOR FAILURE[/SIZE]

If your driving along the road or freeway(like me) and you experience the motor chugging, sputtering and finally shutting off, for one get to the shoulder as quick as you can. Your going to try and crank the motor; you hear it spin or rotate but not run. Your first thought is…did I run out gas?..because its similiar to that.
You have 2 options, I opted for #1 because I had extra money available.
#1 - Replace the entire distributor.
#2 - Replace the Ignitor coil. This is something that can be replaced but you have to know what your doing.

If after replacing the two-hundred dollar fix and find that the car still won’t start, then you may have a fuel-pump problem or…

You will have to remember, too…your exerience may be happening on the side of the road.

After my own experiences…

Engine will not rotate when attempting to start

MAY be caused by extreme mistiming (mine was 4 teeth off).

Car has some power but wont start

So i put in a sub and amp, my car started to die and lose power, so i replaced the battery, thinking i screwed it up. that didn’t help. so my car sat there for a couple weeks and then one day i came back from vacation and it worked for a week, then stopped again. theres something funny with the electrical system, my battery won’t charge, i think it might be a short but i’m not sure. when i turn my key, my dash lights up and everything, my seatbelt moves back. Now I’ll list all of my problems:
-wont start unless jumped
-if i turn my lights on when its started, it dies
-after awhile it dies anyways
-when i press the pedal, my throttle body opens but engine doesnt rev up
-cranks very slowly, even when connected to a strong battery’d car.
-won’t roll start.
i think it might be a short somewhere, but i dont know where to look and don’t know what else it could be. when the car started working out of random, i didnt do anything to the car, just started it up before vacation to move it into the garage, then it just kept working for like a week, perfectly, no problems, then one day it started to die when i left the engine running and the radio was on.
i didnt find anything that helped me in the car won’t start thread…
thanks, i’m new and its my first integra. just got it 2 months ago

question

i have a 91 integra with a b16a. but i dont know what year motor it is and i need to replace the distributor on it because it has a ls distributor on it. I wrote down the serial number of the block where it says b16a but i cant seem find a way to find out. can anyone help me with this

:clap: great work on the forum… i have that problem when the engine wants to crank but it wont because of the check engine light is on. ( no lights are turned on on my car as in like the gauges) but sometimes when i hop into my car to go i put the key in move it to the power position and the fuel pump sends fuel and all but i see that my check engine light is on and when it stays on … i know that my car will not start. if i try all it does is try to turn on. you can hear the starter trying to make it start. but when the check engine light turns off. it turns on just fine. wierd:shrug:

help anyone?

mine has gradually gone out. its burnt up a little. ive gotten to the point where i can pull it out and take it inside and let it stay cool and it will start. the only time it wont start is when the relay itself is hot. but for now it is still working.

car won’t start when hot

I had this problem before with my other teg, I just need to find the site where the little brown box is located so I can solder the wires back together. thanks

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My integra would occasionally not start. It cranks fine, but i would say every 10th start it would take forever to start and I would have to press down the gas, while cranking, to start. I would think this is a fuel problem since I have to press gas. I’ve tried checking my fuel pump but it’s difficult because I don’t know when it won’t start so I am usually not in right place to diagnose correctly. I’ve watch videos and have seen people listen through the gas tank when cranking, haven’t tried it yet but if I can get it to not start in my garage I will try. Also where is the fuse/relay for the fuel pump(also so this in a video, i want to check if fuse is okay and if relay clicks). Sorry if it’s too much, little confused and i don’t know much about fuel system. If there is any articles specifically for this problem, i will really appreciate it. Thanks

I just bought a 91 Acura Integra GS and when i start it and put it in gear it doesnt shift out of first gear then when i get to a stop sign it kicks into nuetral then i have to shut my car off and it will go again until i stop and i searched all over the place and idk wat it is could someone tell me what it is

Thanks a lot dear…I think this will help people a lot. thanks again.

i have a 93 integra gs and just changed water pump on and thought i had timing set, drove the car for 45 mins then shut it off and drove another 30 mins shut it off again and when i restarted it, as i pulled away i got to 2nd gear then it started to choke and wouldnt rev past 4 grand and wouldnt accelerate very quickly then the check engine light came on, i putted it back home and unplugged battery this did no good… any ideas?!

Clutch won’t depress 90% of the time

Hello, I have a 92 Integra GSR with a pretty new stage 3 clutch.
So new issue with the car.
The clutch pedal got stiff tonight where it literally wouldn’t push in and disengage. Every now and then if I push the pedal in and flick the pedal and let the tension pop it back, the clutch pedal will go back to normal operation for a short time. But it keeps going back to being stuck and I can’t push it in. It is a cable driven clutch setup.
Thanks!

Given that’s an aftermarket part, I’d suggest you post your question in the “aftermarket performance” subforum.