NA 2.0L round two and exterior freshen up!

stoopid_1 · January 14, 2013, 6:09am

So after my B20VTEC decided to melt a piston because of a failed injector, I decided to put in an LS VTEC until I could build my new set up. Well on the way to my cabin it met its match, heard a “clink” and pulled over… the result was a tow trip.

After pulling spark plugs 1-3 so far, everything was looking alright… until I pulled this out of the 4 hole…

pulled the head…

The damage pretty much resulted in the head and bottom end being toast. I could probably save the block but I picked up a new block from a buddy that had the same thing happen. So now I now get to build my dream set up of a motor since I started to get into Honda/Acura 12 years ago. So let the fun begin!

I picked up a new P72 head from a buddy and sent it off to get the new Supertech Valvetrain and Valves put it in, as well as open up the ports to help it breath better with the new cams I ordered.
After I got it back from being reworked!

I talked to Derek at DD Tech Camshafts and he helped me set up a profile he felt would be beneficial to my set up and what I plan to do with the car.

The block (which isnt done yet, therefore I do not have pictures at this time) will be as follows.

B18C JDM ITR
Benson Sleeved 85mm
Carillo Rods
CP Pistons (12.3:1)
Balanced and Micropolished crank
ITR oil pump
ITR water pump
Mugen oil pan

Parts being reused:
SMSP B19 Header
JG Intake Manifold
Ericks 70mm TB
AEM v2 CAI
ITR Transmission

However I will be doing RDX injectors, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, Toda timing belt, DriveShaft Shop axles, and I will be upgrading to a 3" KTeller exhaust system for expelling the exhaust gases.

I will also be redoing the exterior and changing interior parts.
Exterior Plans:
Painting the car
CF Hatch
FAL rear lexan
Delete the sunroof
And put on the mirrors I picked up

Interior:
Sparco Seat
New Harnesses
Art Morrison Roll Bar
Stack Display in with a custom retrofit. (eventually…)
remove all sound deadening

Thats all I have for now but this build is well underway and the motor should be done within the next two months or so!

bryan24207 · January 14, 2013, 7:09am

why do people say ITR oil and water pump, its either an obd1 or an obd2…theres no difference in them at all except for the vtec water pumps are a bit stronger than an ls one…oil pump…same shit…but have fun! i’ve always wanted a b20 vtec but now im going just full gsr

stoopid_1 · January 14, 2013, 7:22am

Because it is easier to say, and it is what I have already have for the block.

unified112 · January 14, 2013, 7:45am

The water pumps aren’t “stronger”… The vtec pumps have a different tooth count than the LS/B20 pump. It has to do with cavitation at high RPM.

As you said though, the OBD2 oil pumps are the same.

OP, why are you deleting the sunroof? Looks like you had a run of bad luck with the motor shitting the bed on you… the new setup sounds nice though!

stoopid_1 · January 14, 2013, 7:54am

Getting rid of it because of weight and so I have more head room. Being 6’ 4" with a helmet leaves very little room for the noggin…

DAprojectTuRtle · January 14, 2013, 2:15pm

nice new build… cant wait to see.

jdecks23 · January 14, 2013, 3:51pm

Nice build! Good luck with the new motor. I’d like to see some more pics of the bay. I’m a little confused by the post…how exactly did the motor fail?

djzachtyler · January 14, 2013, 4:06pm

valve snapped and tore up a cylinder… I got that much just from the pics…

look forward to seeing where ya go with this bud sounds like a great build project!!!

stoopid_1 · January 14, 2013, 5:19pm

Like djzachtyler said it snapped a valve at 4k RPM. But I can try to get other pictures, just don’t know what would help you understand it better.

jdecks23 · January 14, 2013, 5:35pm

Being an engine builder myself I was just hoping to learn from whatever happened. In most cases, valves don’t just snap randomly. Was there an issue with valve to piston clearance on the setup?

stoopid_1 · January 14, 2013, 5:57pm

Without trying to slander a reputation, to my understanding Supertech had an issue with a few batches of their valves and with a “high lift” cam with a steep drop off they were prone to wearing out and causing breakage. However that is just what I have learned and been told could be a possible cause, the other issue could have been from my last motor failing weakened them and being impatient I could have missed something.

I went with Supertech again at the recommendation of Derek, he said he hasn’t ever had an issue. I will be keeping a better eye on it though, as sort of a lesson learned.

Like I said I have no problems taking better pictures of what happened but I don’t know what else you would want to see.

hb420 · January 15, 2013, 1:21am

If you ever want to change up the front end with a different lip let me know lol

stoopid_1 · January 15, 2013, 2:24am

Its staying for now, but i’ll let you know if that ever changes.

stoopid_1 · January 16, 2013, 4:39am

For got to include these in the first batch…

:ohyeah:

unified112 · January 16, 2013, 4:51am

Baller status.

stoopid_1 · January 16, 2013, 5:25am

better picture of the DDtech cams :burnout:

new way to change gears! :manual:

And I test fitted the “new” brakes to make sure they will clear my wheels

redtegra · January 16, 2013, 10:26am

cool build man good luck! i’ve been through a few engines also i know how it feels.

stoopid_1 · January 16, 2013, 6:08pm

Yeah, unfortunately its all part of the game. But it also keeps it interesting to see what works and what doesn’t.

Teg_Youngin · January 16, 2013, 10:28pm

Hey im looking into getting the same brakes. What size rims are you running? and how much clearance you have? I got Sprint Hart cpfs and wondering if the will fit, I just dont to buy the kit and them not fit.

stoopid_1 · January 16, 2013, 10:43pm

TE37 16x7 +40 offset
The brakes are Wilwood DynaLite 12.2", clearance is tight but I can measure for you tonight if that would help.
You could always look into the 11" kit that FastBrakes sells, im fairly certain, to clear even 15" wheels.