ok i searched the forums and see that people use dc struts/springs on da’s as long as yyou have th edc forks.
i broke a spring on my stock da setup and i have a complete stock dc set front and rear. only swapping the front right now.
i’m only doing it cause the spring is broke but when i get the dc strut in place i can’t put the fork on it cause its like 3 inches longer than the stock da setup. i’ve stood on it and bottom out the control arm before i can get the bolt in. i mayy be able to really get it but will this be too much stress on the parts?
like in the air it will be all the way down. once weight is on it i’m afraid it may stuff everything too close together and press on the axle or pop the strut/spring. i know i have to modify the fork to clear the axle anyway but that doesn’t seem to be playing a factor right now. trying to get it done this weekend so i can drive my car next week for work. so fast help is appreciated.
What I think you are saying is that the front strut fork is hanging lower than the lower control arm when you try to put the DC spring/strut assembly in. I think that was what mine was doing when I had standard DC struts. You need to have the car sitting on jack stands and take the jack and put one edge of it on one side of the strut fork and jack up until it lines up with the hole in the lower control arm and then slide the bolt in. Or you can use a spring compressor to compress the spring some to achieve the same effect. Basically, one way or another, you do have to compress the spring and strut a little in order to install it. I hope that makes sense.
yes what you said is basically whats wrong, i juts cut out the bad part of the spring welded it to the strut and gonna ride on it for a a week or two till i can order something seems to be holding fine just pulls a little since one spring is now like 1 coil shorter lol i know its not 100% safe but it gets me to work lol
Do exactly what pahatcardesignz said. You’re having trouble cuz the DC struts are not compressed. Just use a jack under one of the forks arm and jack it up till the holes line up and you’re done.
ok got it up on stands now shaved the forks like i’ve read to do so they clear the axle. going for a test fit and when i put the jack under the fork as soon as it starts compressing it makes the whole assembly deflect toward the hub away from where i need to bolt it. i’ve tried jacking it up and then using a pry bar can’t budge it at all. honestly this is pissing me off i’ve done all kinds of mixing and matching of parts and never had something this stubborn. if you guys can suggest anything with in the next couple hours it’d be a great help other wise gotta put it all back together stock till next week when i have more time to work on it.
Did you made sure that the top hat mounting bolts are in the mounting hole flushed? If it’snot complete in the hole, the whole assembly with deflect when you try to jack it up.
I don’t see any other reason why it wouldn’t go straight up and line up with the mounting hole on the lca. Check everything very carefully once more and see if everything is bolted up fine before jacking.
Also kinda dumb, but did you made sure that you didn’t mix up the left and right forks?
I dont really have a response but i do have a question. What area did you grind down? Im going to be running a ITR set up on my car and need to grind down the forks and it would be nice to know where. I searched but could not find any pics.
um yeah i did a poor mans lowering job on them after fighting with them for a few hours, interestingly enough i cut like 2 1/2 coils out of the top put it all in still had to push the lower arm down a bit. and after all said and done only a very slight drop in the front lol.
if i had cut that much out of the stock spring i’d be willing to bet the bumper would be on the ground or damn near close.
um as for where i ground i meant to take pictures and i forgot if you have the fork in your hand with the pinch bolt in the back like its supposed to be.
the right hand side sort of angles from front left to back right like / that…
i just made that angle more extreme and took material out of the inside in the actual bend if you just bolt the fork onto the lca and move your knuckle back and forth you’ll see where it hits the axle, really took more than i needed to i think but i just took a grinder to it only took about 5-10 minutes a side.
now i just need to get some new LCA’s for the rear so i can swap in the rear struts, i really don’t feel like snapping the lower mounting bolt like i always do so just gonna do it with new lca’s and if i can afford it maybe redo the TA bushings cause they are shot.
heres a shitty pic but in the red circle is about where you need to shave, this one is pinch bolt up so you can see the bevel easier.
