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Abs delete ????

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Abs delete ????

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    Abs delete ????

    I have a 90 gs fo do. And I know there are threads in here about this but I have some questions of my own.

    1. Could I just take off all of the engine brake lines and prop valves from a junk ls or rs and swap it over without having to hack my lines up ?

    2. Will I have to get new axles ? Because I do believe there is some sort of difference between the two ??????

    3. Will I need another ecu or does the abs not have anything to do with it ?

    please help guys. I have read the other threads and just get a headache when thinking about it. lol

    #2
    1. yes, but you still need to extend the rear lines

    2. no

    3.no

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      #3
      well i found the threads, but they had no pics ? anybody know of a thread that does ?

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        #4
        Originally posted by foleytime View Post
        well i found the threads, but they had no pics ? anybody know of a thread that does ?
        I'll get you some pics tonite. I just finished doing mine. You can use a prop valve from a non abs car. You also need to make extensions which I can show you how I did it. you don't need different axles. Both witll work. You can remove your abs sensors as well. What you will need Is a non-abs brake booster and master cyl. It makes things much easier. Also get yourself a mighty vac. It'll help bleeding the brakes easier.

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          #5
          Yea man, any pics would be oh so much greatly appreciated. I just dont want my car to be down for more then a couple days so thats why im kinda leery about the abs delete and what not.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by foleytime View Post
            Yea man, any pics would be oh so much greatly appreciated. I just dont want my car to be down for more then a couple days so thats why im kinda leery about the abs delete and what not.
            IF you have all the parts you need to do it, it'll take you a day at most.


            Here is the procedure.

            1) Pull ABS fuse/backup
            2) Remove ABS booster and master cyl
            3) Remove ABS brake lines for front and prop valve
            4) Remove ABS pump and accessories
            5) Install new Prop valve
            6) Measure distance from new non abs prop valve to the rear distribution block for the rear lines. Don’t need to remove it. just need to cut up old lines to make extensions for new lines.
            7) Cut old lines and use old fittings and a flaring tool to make the extensions. Install extensions.
            8) Install non abs brake lines for front.
            9) Bench bleed non abs master cyl
            10) Install non abs brake booster and master cyl
            11) Hook up non abs lines to booster and prop valve
            12) Bleed system with mighty vac

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              #7
              That helps a lot. You are talking about flaring the lines. Can you give me a def. of what this is exactly ? and those steps are very clear. What is a mighty vac ?

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                #8
                Originally posted by foleytime View Post
                That helps a lot. You are talking about flaring the lines. Can you give me a def. of what this is exactly ? and those steps are very clear. What is a mighty vac ?
                you need a brake line tool kit you can rent from a parts store. if you dunno how to do it, you'll need to find someone who can help you. it takes ordinary tube and makes the ends flared so they seal inside the brake fittings.

                mighty vac is a hand held vacume pump for bleeding brakes and clutches.

                Just like that...

                http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a

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                  #9
                  I decided to keep my abs master cylinder and brake booster. I cut and reflared the m12 fitting from the abs line.

                  Comment


                    #10


                    this is WAY late but yea. you can see the sections of brakeline we cut and flared and bent to fit. its a tight fit when done right (imo) and doesnt' leak a bit. bleeding determined it was a nice steady flow through those lines too.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by darin d View Post
                      I decided to keep my abs master cylinder and brake booster. I cut and reflared the m12 fitting from the abs line.
                      Me to, I just went to the scrap yard and pulled off all the front lines and the prop valve from an RS. I cut the M10 fitting off the rear MC port and put the M12 from the abs lines I pulled out.

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                        #12
                        yeah, personally I like keeping the larger master cylinder. I don't mind the pedal feel with that setup and it leaves you in a better position to upgrade to larger brakes in the future.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by icemanGSR View Post


                          this is WAY late but yea. you can see the sections of brakeline we cut and flared and bent to fit. its a tight fit when done right (imo) and doesnt' leak a bit. bleeding determined it was a nice steady flow through those lines too.



                          Heres a question. Why are you running your lines from prop valve to prop valve.

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                            #14
                            Colin - you can still run larger brakes with the non abs MC. (im runnnig ITRs).

                            Originally posted by darkstarsinner View Post
                            Heres a question. Why are you running your lines from prop valve to prop valve.
                            It was more convenient for me to just make extensions.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I am fairly sure that the second "prop valve" is merely a coupler, and the reason for keeping the abs master cylinder is that it has a larger piston.

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