So I’m in the middle of a suspension overhaul and I’m replacing everything. I came across these and was wondering what would require the use of these? My plan right now is to use the stock arms with Mugen bushings, but the price of these arms is exactly how much the bushings are and if using the SPC arms would benefit me i’d rather go that route.
also if anyone has them please let me know how they are. The bushings don’t look so great from the pictures I’ve seen.
i had to get the SPC toe adjusters when i switched to the SPC lower control arms. since the geometry of the arm changes the toe angle beyond what the OEM adjuster can provide. i swapped arms and went thru a bran new set of rear michelin tires in a little under 3 months because of the toe with the OEM adjusters. picked up the SPC’s and figured out that the differance was about -1/4 of an inch. i have since moved on and no longer have the SPC LCA’s but still use the toe adjuster simply because it provides a vast amount of adjustment which the OEM cannot do. only real reason to have them is if you are constantly adjusting alignment for one reason or another and/or want the accurate response of heim joints instead of rubber bushings.
In the picture i saw it looks like theyre bushings, not heim joints.
Im definetly going to consider getting these rather than getting new compensator arms and/or Mugen bushings.
I love mine. Way easier and more accurate to adjust than the stock ones, especially when sitting very low.
Great info, thanks guys. Looks like ill definetly be getting them. When you installed them where did you set the stock adjustment, if you know what i mean. I read that you adjust the actual toe arm so the theaded shaft and threaded sleeve are both flush with the “block” part of the arm. But when you mount the arm to the car, where the factory arm adjusts (sliding bolt/nut) where did you set that at? In the middle, all the way out or all the way in?
I think mine was set all the way out so that the inner adjustment bolt on the SPC arm was easier to access.
They are definatly heim joints unless you are looking at a wrong pic.
I have my inner bolt to the center of the chassis so it wont slide around since it still uses the OEM mount bolt. the inner nut is hard to get to but i figured out a way to make adjustments and get it tightened down only loosening the outter nut. its more time consuming when doing alignments but i feel more comfortable with it bolted down that way. a friend of mine had a washer welded in to prevent it from moving at all under load. if your looking to buy these just to set it to stock alignment specs, save your money and just keep the OEM arms.
There are 2 different rear toe arms from spc. One with heim joints and one without.
http://www.spcperformance.com/PROD_DIR/SPCPerf_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=69450&cmd3=
http://www.spcperformance.com/PROD_DIR/SPCPerf_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=69250&cmd3=
Were your spc LCA’s longer, shorter or the same total length as the oem LCA’s?
Sorry for the old thread bump. I was in the middle of doing some searching and I figured id post it up for future reference.
I bought some mainly because I was doing RTA bushings, which makes it the most convenient time to install them. They’re just in case i’m doing a competition and i quickly need to dial out oversteer with a hair of rear toe in.