Around 60 MPH on the highway, my steering would slowly get looser it felt like, also seemed to feel alott more dangerous the faster i got going, to the point to where I avoided highways because it felt like I was gonna die from it. So i ordered the $25 tool from honda to adjust the steering rack, figured it couldnt hurt to try and maybe i’d use the tool again in the future. So i got the tool today, loosened the 40mm locknut, and tightened the guide screw, it was about 1/2 turn out, factory specs say tighten all the way, then back it out 1/4 a turn. So i did that, and went for a drive. Immediatly i noticed it was alot stiffer feeling, kind of like i installed a brand new manual rack, but easier to turn when stopped. So i got on the highway and to my happy surprise, no looseness what so ever. There was no one on the highway so i decided to go a little faster (only like 95) just to see how it responded with higher speeds, still stiff as a board at that speed. Normally at 95 i would feel like i was on the verge of death. I also had alot of vibration in the steering wheel before this, most all of the vibration at high speed went away as well.
So basically, if you have loose steering at high speeds, adjust your steering rack before anything. A simple 1/4 of a turn of the guide screw can make the biggest difference. I only posted this for people looking for answers to read this before they waste money on other parts before atleast trying this. This did it for me, anyway. Good luck
For quick reference, the part # for the tool to adjust the rack is
07916-SA50001 WRENCH (40MM)
I’ve got to try this. My steering also feels soooo dangerous at high speeds. Would you mind posting a pic or at least a description of where the guide screw is? Thanks
Thanks Glynn! So the bolt head you’re referring to is the one thats facing the camera? Or is it on to of that ball shaped area RIGHT next to the vice jaws? Any thing I need to do when I reconnect the PS lines? Just add more fluid?
If you use the honda wrench made for it, it will. The honda wrench is like 15" long and really skinny and made exactly for it, only $25 i’d say it was WELL worth it for the benefits i gained.
Heres my pics of where its located, this is on my 1993 Integra GSR, so should be the same for all 90-93 integra’s and maybe all others too.
Added alot of commentary in the pics so everything is clear of what the pictures are of, and what angles they are at so there is no confusion.
what could a 1/4 turn do to make that much of a difference? wow… some things are just crazy… i’ll have to try that this weekend while the car’s up on stands for the wheel bearing replacment… Thanks for the tip!! and the pics!!
Basically from the breakout pics of the rack guide, from the best i can tell, the adjustment screw puts pressure on the entire rack that is connected to the tie rods and tighter = harder to turn and stiffer feel, looser = loose steering and easier to turn. It backs out after awhile slowly and needs readjusting to get the factory feel back. I got mine back, atleast. Hopefully it works for everyone else, 90-93 integras are old cars so most of them probbaly need it done. The 1/4 turn just puts that much more pressure on the assembly and makes it feel that much better, mine feels fairly stiff even though its factory specs becuase i have a 320mm steering wheel, but i love the way it feels over the previously wobbly/dangerous feeling steering.
I have been considering just going ahead and investing the money for a rebuilt rack anyways. After the core charge at O’rielley’s they are like $150 or so. A worth while investment if you leak fluid or have torn boots.
Torn boots? As in torn inner tie rod boots? They’re $15 for a new set at advance auto, which youd need to replace the inner tie rods at the same time, but you can get some advance as well for $56 for both inner’s + $15 for the boots. If you leak fluid and stuff just isnt right then its worth the investment but no need if the adjustment is all you need.
Do the reman racks come with inner tie rods and boots already on them?
as discussed before, when adjusting this the steering will feel tight but over time will loosen up again, which tells me something is worn out, possibly the spring. I wouldn’t touch this adjustment unless your steering is very loose, I noticed a change, a change that was too tight but became loose and back to normal over time.
I guess I needed to clarify “normal”. I meant by normal being what it was before the adjustment. As others have discussed before on this topic, when you do this adjustment you will feel an increase in stiffness and better mobility with the steering wheel, but like my situation and with others this eventually goes away, and you are left with what the steering was like before the adjustment.
This is with my case, and may not be for yours. I think my adjustment spring has lost resistance or other parts may need to be changed to be effective, my rack and pinion has over 180,000 miles on it, so I expect it to be loose in many ways.
[QUOTE=Mr. Burns;2031141]I guess I needed to clarify “normal”. I meant by normal being what it was before the adjustment. As others have discussed before on this topic, when you do this adjustment you will feel an increase in stiffness and better mobility with the steering wheel, but like my situation and with others this eventually goes away, and you are left with what the steering was like before the adjustment.
This is with my case, and may not be for yours. I think my adjustment spring has lost resistance or other parts may need to be changed to be effective, my rack and pinion has over 180,000 miles on it, so I expect it to be loose in many ways.[/QUOTE]
So, the best thing would just to get a new steering rack?
Not exactly, like the others said replace your boots, check for loose bolts, proper tire inflation. If your rack is not leaking keep it and deal with it. Do all the maintenance on your steering and suspension before replacing the rack.
