New everything on brake system, weird problem

I got bremo blanks, axxis ultimates, goodridge SS lines, all reman nissin calipers. Replaced the MC, bleed brakes over and over and over.

Heres my problem, in my pedal i have at least 1-1.5inchs in play in the pedal that does NOTHING. After that it starts to brake, brakes will lock up if i press hard. Pedal just seems mushy for all the shit i just did. Booster seems ok, as the pedal is very very firm when the car is off. It just doesnt seem right to me at all. Valve on vacume to the booster is correct, and i had 2 different valves to test it with. I have a first gen aebs intake manifold too if that tells anyone anything. I need suggestions.

This all came after a motor swap also.

have you tried “bleeding” the brakes with a hose attached to the vavle where it drains and putting that hose in a cup maybe a quarter filled with brake fluid. That way when you bleed it doesn’t suck up air when your trying to close the vavle after pressing the brake and trying to bleed the line, less chance of air getting back into the line. That could be a problem

havnt done exactly that, but i usally keep the brake pedal depressed until the valve is closed. That maybe worth a shot, but the amount of times we’ve bleed the brakes to no avail, wheither its gravity bleed or the 2 person pump and hold…nothin.

my car has always had a lot of dead travel at the top of the pedal, it is better now with new rotors and pads, but still a lot more than, say, my brother’s 97 Bonneville. I just assumed it was normal. And I did the bleeding into a cup.

When you say you bled the brakes, I assume you mean at each caliper. But, did you bleed the master cylinder before install? That is crucial, otherwise you’ll have air in the system much more “upstream”, if you will, in laymans terms. Bleeding the master cylinder is very important. There should have been instructions with it when you bought and installed it. Also, the Chilton/Hemls manual tells you how to do it, too. And it’s quite simple :slight_smile:

Oh, and also, on all my different brake set ups over the years, I’ve never really had any type of play/travel in my brakes. The second you touch that pedal, the second the brakes begin to work :slight_smile: So there shouldn’t be any type of play/dead travel.

Let us know if you bled the master cylinder before install or not.

– Kevin :slight_smile:

When I replaced my MC a couple years ago we bench bled the MC

JETS -

Did you bleed you master cylinder? Jw.

had almost the exact same problem when I did all of my brake work earlier in the year
new MC
SS lines
rebuilt calipers
slotted rotors
metallic pads
removed the abs system

what my problem turned out to be was the master cylinder was defective the first time and then the second it just took for bloody ever to bleed, a lot of air had gotten into the system because of how much had been removed. As mentioned above did you bench bleed the MC?

ok my MC wasnt bad this time to begin with, i bench bleed the one i replaced 1.5 years ago. We just replaced it again just cause we couldnt figure out the problem. Didnt bench bleed it this time, but let all 4 corners gravity bleed for over a hour. Problem was the same before and after the MC replacement.

I went out to my car the next day(saturday), and there was a puddle of brake fluid under the driver side front. I looked around more and saw it was dripping on my wheel and kicking up on my year old paint :thumbs up:. I didnt notice any damage from the fluid, i just wet a micro fiber towel and wiped it down as i had no time to wash the car because i was heading out of town. I took the wheel off to try to spot where its leaking, its all gathering around the lower bolt for the caliper, is there anyway to have a leak from the caliper not the line??

These are all new, but all remans. I’m not totally sure if this is the source of my problem, as maybe something didnt get tightened well the 30th time we bleed the brakes.

After getting back into town, i was gone for 2 days…The MC reservoir is down about 1/4 the way, i just peeked under the car and i cant see where its leaking down the tire and on the ground. It’s dark out so i cant check it out to much. I’ll probably try to limp it back to the shop tomorrow, this needs to be cleared up.

sounds like your bleeder screw is leaking.

well took the wheel off today with the guy who did the work, piston seal on the reman caliper is shot.

bleeder and banjos were dry, but on the rear i noticed some fluid around the banjos and bleeders. gonna probably replace the both front calipers again.

i guess that could make for a mushy pedal?

well 1/4 of the piston seal was missing, got the new caliper on and now the banjo fitting wont stop leaking. tried different crush washers, different banjo bolts. It’s leaking caliper to line side, called summit and they are overnighting a set of lines to me. hopefully that will cure it up, or else its another fucked caliper

great for all new shit eh? :blah:

got the car back today, brakes feel a bit better but i dont think they are completely correct.

Still have 1/3 the pedal that does nothing, and should i be able to push the pedal all the way to the floor?

Also on the interestate i would let off the gas and hit the brakes, car pulls slightly right still.

after the ice is out of my driveway ill try to investigate more, and ask my car guy down the road.

I have the exact same problems. Are you JETSWU87 on AIM as well?