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Who had to drill a hole in there shock tower after they adjusted their camber?

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Who had to drill a hole in there shock tower after they adjusted their camber?

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    Who had to drill a hole in there shock tower after they adjusted their camber?

    Who had to drill a hole in there shock tower after they adjusted their camber so that their upper balljoint wouldnt hit ...im asking becuase if you could take a pic ...from the top and from in the wheel well it would be greatly appriciated ...

    thanks

    #2
    try searching around. i think someone did cut a hole for it. imo just let it hit it enough to put the shape in it insead of having a hole in there for water to get in.

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      #3
      i searched but i couldnt find what i wanted ...but i know ive read about it somewhere on here ...but i never saw a pic ...and id rather drill the hole ...i wouldnt like the hitting and etc ...

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        #4
        yeah the guy that had my car before me did that, i dont have a pict but they are just square holes in my tower. Im thinking of having my machinest make a cover and weld it on there so it doesnt crack. ill have to cut a little out of my CF hood bracing but its better than a cracked shock tower

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          #5
          Strange, I have upper adjustable balljoint and they never hit the inside fender (shock tower?)

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            #6
            i heard you have to do it with adjustable balljoints ...but i think its only if your dropped a certain amount ...

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              #7
              Didn't Shenrie do this on his ultra low db1?

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                #8
                Originally posted by Archon
                Didn't Shenrie do this on his ultra low db1?
                Yes, Shea's car was the first I'd ever seen w/ that done. didn't seem to hurt anything. And I believe the car was still rigid enough for him (I think he was autocrossing the car at that time).

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                  #9
                  nobody has a pic of the hole in Shea's DB1?

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                    #10
                    I saw it in person, pretty crazy. The UCAs almost stiick through at ride height. He said he was lowered like 5".

                    ben

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                      #11
                      I'm 2" dropped and I don't need a hole. If your more than 2" dropped on a G2 you must be hitting ground everywhere! I'm only 2" and I'm freakin low. Every garage that I go, I mean every mechanics tells me fuck dude your car is fuckin low.

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                        #12
                        for while i was at like 2.75" in the front and 2.5" in the rear ...only tim i rubbed was goin in and out of steep driveways just had to be extra careful...but i think im going to keep it to like 2.5" in the front and 2.0" in the rear now because ill have the JDM DC on pretty soon with my exhaust ...

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Newschooler
                          I'm 2" dropped and I don't need a hole. If your more than 2" dropped on a G2 you must be hitting ground everywhere! I'm only 2" and I'm freakin low. Every garage that I go, I mean every mechanics tells me fuck dude your car is fuckin low.
                          2" really isn't that low, I had 2" drop progress springs for awhile. After that I was lowered about 3.5" w/ some coilovers and I still didn't have trouble driving over very many things. It just depends on how you drive over things, and obviously what kind of stuff you have in your area.

                          You have to be pretty low to need to cut the shock tower. When I was lowered 3.5" and had the ingalls kit correcting for some camber (was running a little under 2 deg of neg camber) my uca's would hit the inside of the wheel well. But it wasn't too much, they eventually rubbed off the undercoating stuff and pushed a little "dent" into the strut tower. So they sorta made room for themselves and after that there was enough clearance.

                          Oh, and on a side note, for those that don't know.... the area where the uca will hit is dual wall. So there are two layers of metal there with some airspace between them.

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                            #14
                            3.5" drop? Thats crazy, well at least where I live (montreal). The roads aren't very good here.

                            But its true that 2" isn't that low, I have absolutely no problem with that drop. Give me better roads and a winter beater and I would go more than that.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Newschooler
                              3.5" drop? Thats crazy, well at least where I live (montreal). The roads aren't very good here.

                              But its true that 2" isn't that low, I have absolutely no problem with that drop. Give me better roads and a winter beater and I would go more than that.
                              yeah, 3.5" is pretty low, it takes quite a bit to start tucking tires and making the car look good. I've learned my lesson though.... a 3.5" drop is too much, at least w/o changing other parts as well. With the car being that low you have VERY little suspension travel. My car handles a lot better now that I've raised it back up.

                              Also, your shocks, tires and driving style will have a large effect on what you will or will not scrape on. At least that has been my experience.

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                                #16
                                yea me ...even with my Gs-R at stock height i still avoid stuff that i would have to when i had my Rs ...and im careful and always keep an eye out so i dont rub and etc ...

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                                  #17
                                  I had to buy 2 camber kit to completely remove negative camber with only 2"

                                  Adjustable table bushings and adjustable upper balljoint. Can't imagine with 3.5"

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                                    #18
                                    hehe man I only have 2" clearence from my cross memebr and my exhaust from the fround

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                                      #19
                                      Originally posted by Newschooler
                                      I had to buy 2 camber kit to completely remove negative camber with only 2"

                                      Adjustable table bushings and adjustable upper balljoint. Can't imagine with 3.5"
                                      Sounds like you bought 2 camber kits when one would have worked fine. Different kits are made to correct for different amounts of camber. The ingalls extreme kit will correct all you need for a 2" drop.

                                      Also, why tune out ALL of the camber? Camber actually helps your car corner better. You can sacrifice a little bit of neg camber to help handle better. I'm currently running -1.25 deg of camber in the front and -1.5 in the rear. I've put about 18k miles on my es100's and there is ZERO excess inside wear. The tires are wearing perfectly evenly. Now, given I do drive the car pretty hard on a regular basis, so this helps even out the wear. But 90% or more of my driving is simply freeway or normal around town driving. With my previous ride height (3+") I was running about -1.5 front and -2.0 rear. This was back when I was ignorant and didn't go too a good alignment shop. That setup sucked. The tires wore a little bit more on the inside than the outside, but not a huge amount, definitely something I wouldn't mind (I got 3 years...around 30-40k miles.... out of my tires, which is pretty good considering they were decently soft). Mainly I just didn't like the balance front to rear, and I'm not sure what the alignment shop set the toe to. My car handled a lot better w/ the new ride height and even better still w/ the new alignment settings.

                                      Obviously toe settings matter as well, and I don't recal off hand what my toe settings are currently. I believe they're close to zero, but not quite zero.

                                      After having this experience w/ my current and previous alignments I am definitely going to run more camber next time. Next time I do some suspension mods I'm going to have my camber set a bit more extreme as I wouldn't mind a small amount of inner tire wear. I'm thinking I'll run around -1.75 front, and -1.25 or -1.5 in the rear.... maybe even more neg camber, I haven't completely decided yet. I'd like to run as much neg as possible w/o sacraficing too much extra wear. But with fairly straight toe settings you can run a decent amount of camber w/o much added wear.

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                                        #20
                                        what are your temp. readings across the tire? Do you need more negative camber?

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                                          #21
                                          Originally posted by strikeback03
                                          what are your temp. readings across the tire? Do you need more negative camber?
                                          I haven't taken temps across the tire. I did my first track day this past friday, and haven't gotten to the point where I'm getting that technical yet, thusfar I've just tinkered w/ tire pressures. With my current setup I had to run pretty high tire pressures to prevent the sidewall from rolling over. Obviously sidewall stiffness has its part in this as well.

                                          With how I drive my tires are wearing evenly, maybe even a little more on the outside edge....but pretty darn even. And thats just normal street driving. I would like to start doing more track events and pushing the car harder, and I know some more neg camber wouldn't hurt.

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                                            #22
                                            is there an optimal neg camber and toe setting for autoX and raod racing ...i know there is for drag ...i have them saved somewhere so i can try them out on my project DA once i get the camber kit and see if it makes a different like everyone says ...

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                                              #23
                                              Yes, there is an optimal setting, but it will vary from tire to tire and car to car, depending on the rest of the setup. If you want to find the optimal settings, you will need to use a pyrometer and measure the temperatures across each tire, you are looking for them to increase slightly from outside to inside. They should also be related tire to tire, I'm sure there are online guides, I have a book here to refer to.

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                                                #24
                                                yea i want to read up more on this ...whats the name of the book that you have?

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                                                  #25
                                                  the optimal camber varies track to track too, and possibly even run to run/lap to lap. A guy I autox with has one of those laser temp guages and I always steal it from him and temp everything. One run the outside-inside temps will vary like 5deg, then the next they will be the same, then the next the left tire's inside will be like 10-15deg hotter than the inside on the other one, etc.

                                                  Ben

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