Whats wrong with my brakes?

I have to step real hard on the brakes to slow down… a few days ago it was fine, but today the brakes just seem really loose. :shrug:
whats wrong, where to fix, and about how much? thanks guys i’m really a noob at this :open_mouth:

you mighta just got an air pocket in the line some where, try bleeding them that might help

Explaine! Loose like they are falling apart. Loose as in the car dont stop nomore. How does it feel when you hit the pedal…

Check brake fluid.If its good,check for leaks.If no leaks.Check pads and make sure they are in spec…If all is good its prolly the master cylnder.My $.02

“brakes feel loose” as in i gotta floor the brake to feel pressure… a week ago, when i pressed the brake lightly, i can feel resistance, but now i gotta push the brake all the way in… argg!

Sounds like you’re poorly describing a bad master cylinder. What do I know though? I don’t understand code.

edit

i just did a search for “master cylinder” and i think i DO have a bad m.c … so any ways to fix this besides replacing the whole thing?

:idea:

This is probably the best method for diagnosing your problem. I’d bleed the lines between checking for leaks and checking pads though.

More than likely it’s the MC, but if it’s the cheaper problems, you’ll kick your self later if you don’t find out until after you paid for a new MC.

Nope, well if there is, I donn’t think anyone would recommend it. The problem in the MC is the seal/plunger in there is bad, allowing fluid to ‘flow’ by instead of being trapped on one side. Pressing the brakes to the floor when the MC is going out can cause damage to internal parts, so it’s best to replace the whole MC.

It could be two things mc or air in the lines…
If you missed with you lines lately could be it or if you were low on fluid air might of got in. If fluid was aways full and havent missed with the barakes lately than its your mc. Easy job do it yourself. Two bolts two line just make sure you bench bleed the mc good and than bleed all lines.

I just did my MC about 3 weeks ago, it is very easy. Bleeding the brakes afterwards is even easier.

if it’s really firm (like no power assistance), then its the booster.

If it’s mushy, or mushy after it warms up, it’s the master cyl.

im gonna take it to the shop tomorrow and ask them if it might be the air, because two days ago the weather got really hot all of a sudden, so i hope thats the problem… Either ways around how much will this cost me and how long does it take to get fixed?

master cylinders are pretty straight forward. i picked a remanufactured one up for 40 bucks and a bottle or brake fluid for $4. all you need to do is get a line wrench (10mm) and take your brake lines off then there are two bolts on the booster, holdin the m.c. to that, that you have to loosen (not sure on size). from there you have to bench bleed you new m.c. (instruction included with new one) and install. after hooking your lines back up, now you have to bleed your brakes. make sure your resevoir is at the max line and get some one to help you. have some one sit in the car and press the brake pedal till its hard. loosen the bleeder on your caliper, while they still have their foot on the brake, not to let go of it, or you’ll get more air in your lines. according to my manual the proper way to bleed the brakes on g2’s is this order: RR, LF, LR, RF. after bleeding your brakes top of you fluid to the max line and your good to go

don’t you have to set a clearance between the booster and the cylinder with a feeler gauge when you replace the master cylinder?

No you don’t, just bolt it on and torque to specs. It’s very easy as long as you don’t have a strut tower brace in the way.

I did mine at night, in the street, in front of a friends house, with a gerber multi tool, a flashlight, and a very strong friend (the bench bleeding can be tough at first, or else he was just showing off)and if I can do it, anyone can do it. It was a while ago though, so I can’t help with any specific ?s.