CEL code 15 - Ignition Output Signal

I got this error code while driving to work. Engine cut off, would not start back up. CEL light, battery light, and Oil light came on. I was able to crank motor with a healthly sounding starter but…could not get engine to turn and stay on.

I brought the car back home in the morning (Thanks AAA)…later in the day I went to the garage to check the code and saw 15 - Ignition Output Signal…what the hell does that mean?

AND now here’s the kicker, I cranked the car and it started up just fine. I left the car running for about 20min. turned everything on…A/C, lights put it in gear and back, and let it rev. to 3k for about a few min…nothing.

I don’t trust this though. I need to figure out what the hell exactly happened.

My mechanic friend said last night after I told him what lights on the dash came on, and he immediately said…Alternator. But why is it that the car now just starts fine and runs.

[QUOTE=DAnthony9;2043939]I got this error code while driving to work. Engine cut off, would not start back up. CEL light, battery light, and Oil light came on. I was able to crank motor with a healthly sounding starter but…could not get engine to turn and stay on.

I brought the car back home in the morning (Thanks AAA)…later in the day I went to the garage to check the code and saw 15 - Ignition Output Signal…what the hell does that mean?

AND now here’s the kicker, I cranked the car and it started up just fine. I left the car running for about 20min. turned everything on…A/C, lights put it in gear and back, and let it rev. to 3k for about a few min…nothing.

I don’t trust this though. I need to figure out what the hell exactly happened.

My mechanic friend said last night after I told him what lights on the dash came on, and he immediately said…Alternator. But why is it that the car now just starts fine and runs.[/QUOTE]

well have u checked the voltage its putting out while the motor is running? and whats the voltage of the battery. should be around 12.v - 12.66v. 12.66v is a very good battery.

sounds like the distributor tho. (look at the name of the code)

but regarding those lights? are those the lights u got when u tried starting back up? or when it died?

just for a lil fun tho… i suggest u stall ur car… and watch exactly what lights come on, cuz i believe some lights come on when u do that, i believe oil for sure. the others we’d have to confirm, but i’m pretty sure my ecu gave the same code when my distributor took a crap on me while i was driving. ran off of like 1 cylinder when i was like 1 house away from my place… it ran but the check engine light came on… ran for a few more feet, then died. i just don’t remember which lights came on exactly.

but i believe thats the code i did have blink on me… its been a while tho.

edit oh and to solve the issue i replaced the distributor with one i bought from gil, and haven’t had the problem since.

http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92670&highlight=cel15

Don’t trust the car just because it started it up and ran. This is from experience.

[QUOTE=spikeymike;2044197]http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92670&highlight=cel15

Don’t trust the car just because it started it up and ran. This is from experience.[/QUOTE]

:iagree:

Thanks for the link to the CEL15 problem and diagnosis.

Here’s the deal with mine…sounds almost the same.

I have replaced the distributor about a month ago…from Auto zone. its got a lifetime warranty…so I guess I will be going down there to get another. Doesn’t make sense why a new distributor with new components would FAIL???

[QUOTE=DAnthony9;2044364]Thanks for the link to the CEL15 problem and diagnosis.

Here’s the deal with mine…sounds almost the same.

I have replaced the distributor about a month ago…from Auto zone. its got a lifetime warranty…so I guess I will be going down there to get another. Doesn’t make sense why a new distributor with new components would FAIL???[/QUOTE]

THATS UR ISSUE!!! U GOT IT AT AUTOZONE!!! do NOT ever ever get electrical components from there. i GUARANTEE that if u get an oem distributor (even a known good one) from somebody that ur car will be fine.

autozone also sells lots of crappy sensors, relays, pressure switches, etc etc and they all blow. the quality is way below crap. its like buying a 99 cent flashlight made in taiwan… but with them u might pay a hefty amount thinking their lifetime guarantee will get u something decent. but thats not the case.

buy quality parts, even some aftermarket distributors like ones from distributor king aren’t all that great.

If the OEM Acura distributor/ignitor/ignition coil can last you for 15-20 years, that should tell you something about quality.

Spend the extra money for peace of mind.

[QUOTE=spikeymike;2044577]If the OEM Acura distributor/ignitor/ignition coil can last you for 15-20 years, that should tell you something about quality.

Spend the extra money for peace of mind.[/QUOTE]

yea exactly. autozone… i swear ppl don’t fully comprehend or understand why their parts are cheaper than most… its cuz they spend less on building/making the part, and they also don’t design any of it well when it comes to MOST parts, especially with electrical, master cylinders, axles (ok quality just that their boots are weaker and that their axles are now shorter by 1" compared to oem). even components like high pressure lines for power steering are weak too. lifetime warranty, but u’ll have to rip it out and replace it often.

I’'ve have now just bought into this ideal…which is basically truth. I went to return my lifetime guarenteed distributor to Autozone, before they closed. They had one in stock. I took a good look at it and had a bad feeling about it…it just didn’t look trustworthy. But it was the only they had so I took it.

Got home and mounted it to the car, started it up and almost immed. while the car was warming up, the rev’s were hunting. I put the jumper wire in place so that I could adjust the timing…It would be better if I get myself a timing light though. Everything seemed okay. I had to make a quick run to the store, and when I returned back home the dumbass Engine Light (AKA Idiot Light) came on. And I just waiting for the inevitable to happen, luckily it didn’t but as fast as it came on, it went off. So when I parked the car in the garage…again the damn motor was rev. hunting. I turned motor off…turned the key so that battery was on. Looked at the ECU to see if there were any codes blinking, and what do I see? NO CEL CODES, NOTHING!! … (SCRATCHING MY BALDING HEAD)>>>>WTF???

Please someone help me…I’m giving it 1 more try…going to reset and try to tune it. Otherwise, I’m going to sell it. I love my DA but I’m 40 years old and I think its about time to grow up and just by a FIT or something so that I don’t have to touch it for 5-10 years.

i still say its ur distributor man.

try contacting “sexydb1” i just sold him a good distributor. unfortunately it didn’t solve his problem, cuz well his fuel pump is probably shot or connection/wiring is the issue. so yeah, he doesn’t really need it. he might still have it, he is also in socal.

regarding the CEL, i have no clue. curious tho… u didn’t leave the jumper in the service connector did u?

thanks Squeeze.
Will contact the guy to see if he’ll sell it.

No way…jumper is out. Haven’t had time to get back in the garage to re-tune it. See what happens tomorrow…or maybe Sunday.

Hey everyone,

I got my car running…BUT. I keep getting an erratic Check Engine Light, with no code. and it keeps turning off by itself. It seems to happen every so often. WTF is going on? I really don’t understand why this is happening.

It shouldn’t be the O2 sensor, its only about a year old, made by Denso. Battery is reading +20 so its got good charge from the alternator.

[QUOTE=DAnthony9;2045589]Hey everyone,

I got my car running…BUT. I keep getting an erratic Check Engine Light, with no code. and it keeps turning off by itself. It seems to happen every so often. WTF is going on? I really don’t understand why this is happening.

It shouldn’t be the O2 sensor, its only about a year old, made by Denso. Battery is reading +20 so its got good charge from the alternator.[/QUOTE]

+20v? if so thats way too many volts from the alternator. the average is somewhere around 14.5v or so with the car on and running.

Or could I have my multimeter set wrong or be looking at the wrong number? looked at DC and it was clocked at 20 in the green shaded area.

Also, good news. I put my rebuilt distributor back in. I checked all of the connections with the multimeter and both components seemed okay. I did notice that the guy I took it to had put in a screw on the ignitor coil that was slightly long, so the connector was wiggling around, which In my mind would cause an arc or short and shut everything down. I put it in and started the car…ran smoothly and no CEL. Drove into work with no problems, hickups or hesitations. I’m bringing a back up with me though just in case.