I was wondering if anyone has compared an OEM rotor to an aftermarket one. I’m getting tired of having to retighten the screw as I’ve already gone through that lesson. Just want to know if the OEM’s fit any tighter and stay tight or if they loosen up as well.
My OEM one melted and I’ve been rolling on an aftermarket one from Autozone for over a year with no problems. It was super tight when I put it on and the screw had some type of loc-tite stuff on it. I had to take it off once and it was a pain so I’m not too worried about it coming loose.
Thanks for your input. Was the screw a phillips or hex that came w/ it?
OEM is going to be higher quality than almost all other parts available. I personally wouldn’t use anything except OEM and I’ve never had a problem w/ OEM caps, rotors or rotor screws. I have had issues w/ aftermarket caps and rotors.
Because an OEM piece (which I’m guessing was old) “melted” and a new aftermarket one has worked since then means nothing to me. With age any part is going to degrade.
I want to say it was a hex but I’m not certain, sorry.
Thanks Colin. That’s what I wanted to know. It’s interesting that when I looked up part numbers on Autozone and Kragen, the other apps for the rotors were the 88-91 Civic. When I looked at the prices, the Civic was less $.
Honda uses the same rotor on many different applications. Interesting that you found a price difference at someplace like Kragen. I do know though that the dealer often works that way (at least the online ones).
oem ftw. also… regarding that melting oem cap n rotor from gekko. what melted the cap or the rotor or both? that only melts from lack of maintenance or some kind of screw up.
It was the rotor itself that melted. I can’t be sure but I think a bearing in the distributor was going bad and created too much heat. The rotor had literally melted and come apart. After replacing the rotor I started having problems with all the other components in the distributor one by one. I also had a funny noise coming from it. I finally replaced the whole distributor and the problem was fixed.
Your situation sounds like the problem had zero to do with the brand of rotor that was being used (which is what I figured originally). Your previous comment is very misleading because of this.
:iagree:
edit ur post about that, cuz u are going to give noob’s a perception that oem isn’t worth it. and yea u probably melted the distributor (rotor) cuz the bearing seized… which was ur bad. not a cap n rotor defect.