replacing blown headgasket,What else?

I’m replacing a blown headgasket.
Almost got the head off,just wondering what else i should do?
So far I’ve got
ARP headstuds, valve cover gaskets,Intake/exhaust gaskets,cam seals,water pump/timing belt/tensioner,Resurfacing the head(not mill, as i’m looking to turbo later on).Port and polish.
I am going to be going turbo in less than a year(keep low compression).I’m only doing headwork for the moment as i am running low on funds.So any other suggestions while i got the head off?:read:

Oh and on a side note( this may be a dumb question but how hard is it to upgrade pistons/rings while the engine is still in the car?Or should i just take the engine right out for bottom end work(when i do decide to later on)?

you seem to have everything in order. u could change out ur tb gasket too while u are at it. ummm regarding the bottom end… i know u are low on funds, but now would be a great time to replace the rod bolts (arp), then replace ur bearings. that would just be me tho. also if u are going turbo down the road… you’ll also have to account for things like ur oil lines n stuff. nothing major or anything, but if u can minimize any redundant work, that would save u money down the road. but u said u got a year anyways til u go turbo. if anything… maybe u could just get another block and build it slowly for ur turbo build. won’t be expensive to pick up a spare block. and when its time to go turbo u can just take the head off urs… have the block ready to go with new bearings, rod bolts, maybe new pistons and rods (depending on ur preference… clean the bottom of the head a bit, then slap it on. and throw on the turbo and drop it right back in.

but now that the head is off… u might wanna consider replacing all ur vacuum and coolant lines. especially all those lil ones going to the IM and to the iacv, fitv, etc.

i agree with squeezethis on the arp rod bolts. cheap insurance against catastrophic failure.

concerning your question on working the bottom end while the engine is still in the car. there are two schools of thought about it; the ones who say don’t and the ones who say why not. i belong to the latter. did all bearings and stuff while the engine was in the car. so far its been more than 5k miles since rebuild and i take the engine to 8.5k rpms daily and it stills holds great.

that while a friend of mine did his with the engine out of the car and last week it spun a bearing.

go figure.

okay i need help.I know tis has been covered a million times,But my situation is a lil different.Okay so i got to the timing belt,Got it at tdc.Unscrewed the tensioner and the belt got slack.Pulled the belt off…forgot to put punch through camshafts…and they moved.That’s okay my problem is that the Cam pulley(harmonic balancer) is still on.and now it just moves freely when i try and get that bolt off,the crank moves.My question is(i just bought the tool to hold the crank in place) With the crank moving freely like that,will the tool still hold it in place even if the timing belt is off?or should i get the belt back on and then use the tool?(pain in the ass)…:dozing:

if u have the crank pulley tool… it should get it off with little to no problem at all. don’t worry about it moving… its not gonna spin the crank at a high enough rate that’ll cause the pistons to bank up on the valves. just get that thing off… if u have air tools u can do that too. some do the screwdriver thru rotor trick (car in gear) while they try to bust that crank pulley bolt loose. there are a few different ways to go, but thats up to u.