here are some vids of my gsr i just traded my 240sx for… sry but im at work and cannot tell what vid is what so i have to post them both… i need assistance with diagnosing this problem… do beleive it is a rod bearing making a horrable sound… dont make fun of the goofy tails lol there comming out as soon as the car gets to my house… let me know if you think it needs a crankshaft please thanks… also let me know if you have one… a guy here on the forums was going to sell me one but his number has changed… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZLhMUV2O20 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjQb1VBV7o8
i have a b17 crank in storage. if oyu end up needing it let me know.
i havent seen teh vid b/c im at work as well. i’ll check it when i get home.
the video doesnt help cant really hear what it is. does it increase when it revs?
and as for a b17 crank good luck on finding one there gold I have a complete short block
hehe i have 2 lol. one i’m keeping for a future build, the other i would keep but i will sell for the right price.
well my number is 812 360 4631 call me lets see what we can weork out if u dont mind
I would do a bit more investigating before investing in a crank, even if it is rod knock you won’t necessarily need a new crank. Just guessing but does not sound like rod knock to me, more like the exhaust rattling against something. I would drain the oil and cut up the oil filter paying attention as to what comes out.
Are the engine mounts still solid?
what is that noise at 0:14? shudders
no i dont mind but get the one you have checked out first. i just heard the vid. that doesn’t sound like exhaust clatter to me. take the exhaust off and post up another vid. if by removing the exhaust piping, the sound goes away then we’re ok, if not, we’ll go from there.
well the car will be deliverd on the 29th ill tear the pan off whats the eziest way to check the crank if its blueish or what?? also if i have to replace the crank wouldnt it be best to go ahead and change the timing belt water pump,oil pump and clutch why i have the engine out it does have close to 200k on the engine
you need to take the crank out and have a machine shop look at it and take measurements. you can’t tell by looking.
and yes might as well change out those things, as well as bearings and seals.
it a rod knock i know that sound
so am i making a mistake trading my running 240sx coupe 92 with 300xxx miles for this car?? my 240 smokes a little bit but overall its nice… and about how much you think im looking to get this on the road… im pretty good with engines but this sounds like i may be biting off more then i can chew is this gonna need rods and everything?
Well you can look at this way… Keep a Rwd thats going to need a rebuild soon(might as well put some goodies on while the engine is out) or get the Fwd that already needs a rebuild(might as well put some goodies on while the engine is out).
M-A-C-H-I-N-E S-H-O-P.
there is NO way any of us will be able to tell based on one sounds. you MUST take it apart and have the machine shop actually look, feel, weigh, measure the crank, rods, and block. that is the ONLY right way to find out everything.
all you have to do is pull the engine, split block from head, and rip the block apart, pack it up, and drop it off. there should be no charge to diagnose.
if the rods are bent, which i doubt, then no you don’t need rods. you will need bearings, and probably a crankshaft as well. im guessing the block is probbabyl ok.
DO NOT GET THE CRANKSHAFT TURNED NO MATTER WHAT THE SHOP TELLS YOU. POLISH ONLY IF IT IS WITHIN HONDA SPECS.
trust me it will save you headaches. :read:
yea rod bearing or wrist pin 
pull 'er out and strip 'er down! invest in a set of micrometers and plastigage and you can get a good idea of where everything is yourself…
no that will only tell him if clearances are screwed up.
the shop can measure for roundness on the journals and surfaces, inspect the nitride coating to see if it’s still in tact, analyze scuffing and burn marks if any exist, check for balance issues, etc.
there is a right way and a wrong way to see if parts are usable in this situation.
if you know how to use a micrometer you can determine out-of-round and taper of the journals and mains… if those are in spec odds are your coatings are still in tact… i never said you could do it all, i just said you’d have a good idea whether it’s worth sending the crank to the shop to begin with… if you got one way out of wack save yourself the money and start searching for another one…
[QUOTE=icemanGSR;2027687]M-A-C-H-I-N-E S-H-O-P.
DO NOT GET THE CRANKSHAFT TURNED NO MATTER WHAT THE SHOP TELLS YOU. POLISH ONLY IF IT IS WITHIN HONDA SPECS.
trust me it will save you headaches. :read:[/QUOTE]
why is that?
though some wiill disagree . . . honda cranks are nitride coated, and by “turning” the crank you COULD effectively remove that coating. You also have to run oversized bearings to be within Honda’s specs. Oversized bearings is not a huge issue, if they turn it and can leave some of that coating on it.
the last crankshaft i had had been turned. so much so that coating was gone, which is why even with oversized bearings it still was too loose.
well the car will be here the 29th the day after my bday… hope i can get these carbs lined out on my bike before then lol… but ill let u guys know my dad has all the tools to measure it with… i went to collage to work on engines just never really messed with one this deep besides a v8 in collage lol