I have owned my car (93GS-R) for about a year, and put say 15,000 miles on her. she has been pretty fucking reliable. once i figured some shit out, like i have to wait for all the beeps when you turn ignition on from a cold start. must be charging a capacitor or some shit. if i just crank right away from cold start, she will spin and not start. but if i wait out the beeps, she starts easily and quickly. once warm, she starts w/out the waiting period (a few sec).
and with the ps fluid…once i noticed a squeek in yaw control, a guy told me, stupi, add some ps fluid. i got some honda ps fluid and added. but she hjas slowly been draining out to min, and i refill, and back to min over sev days. on my second bottle of honda ps now. so, could it be that someone put reg ps fluid in (not the special non-corrosive shit honda made special), and it fucked up my seals and stuff? There is some grime on my pump and on the hoses about where they clamp on to the reservoir. What to do? I don’t know how to drain or how much fluid to re-add (so i have all honda ps). I looked through my helms man, but i seem to be missing some pages…the ones i need.
Your power steering pump is leaking. it happens. You’d be smart to head over to honda-tech and find someone with a newer (like…96 or newer) b-series power steering pump they’re selling.
please forgive my lack of culture. i am pretty much an american dumbass, but i can do math…that is about it…people, no…math, yes. thanks for the tip. i will try to get a new pump somehow. shit. i was thinking i would ave to.
‘damn…i’m broke…my feet hurt…and that bitch is slippin.’
Ice Cube - circa 1992
:burnout:
i am realizing you know your shit. once i saw your slam on my yaw wording, i thought about it, and decided you were right. i was thinking in terms of a coordinated turn. if you are flying sailplane, you tape a piece of yarn on the canopy in front of you and if you can use yaw and roll to make the yarn stay put in the turn, you are coordinated. if it moves, you are side-slipping. so are you saying a teg is side-slipping always? it makes sense, but i don’t wuite see why it could not be yaw control. i guess it is the s-turn geometry i am really un learned in. i am more familiar with flight dynamics. anyway. i will study up on car mechanics. i need to.
umm, isn’t yaw control another term for stability control? As in a system that uses individual brake applications to try and point the nose of the car in the direction the driver intended?
It is obvious that you have a PS system leak… what ever the cause, it should be fixed… unless you want to remove you PS as many of us “Drivers” have done. It is a personal preference. Is there a pool of fluid on the ground after leaving the car in one spot for a period of time? track the fluid, if possible from that spot. the other problem I believe is fuel delivery problem, your fuel pump may be going out, or you have a air leak some where that allows the fuel to leak back down to the farthest point in your system, and the pump needs to prime everytime you start her after a period of it sitting idle
Schu
seems like cars would look gay with a v-stab, but who knows. well, some race race race cars have them. especisially they fag-ass circle track demo-derby nugget cars. they look like shit. i always figured, might as well look good if you stand a good chance of high speed death…
i am very willing to try getting rifd of ps as a trial. if i like it, shit, one less system to deal with and a few more hundred Watts of power maybe. what do i need to do? i reckon i needs a new belt, or is the belt around ps only serving itself? Just ditch the blet and i’m done? then can i take the whole assbly off? i would want to remove the ps-inteface to the rack, no? helpppp
and what not to take off…for a easy re-instal if i want ps back cuz i am a puss or something…or mayv\be it is good at speed…it does have speed-sensivity, and i don’t want the ecu to be bitchin nun either.
straight
the ECU won’t care, the easiest way to remove PS is to just remove the belt (only runs the PS), the effort will be higher though. Better ways are to loop the lines or get a manual rack from an EF. Searches should turn up instructions on those.
OK, I have the 93 GS-R…these prices are from OEMACURAPARTS.COM. Is this some kind of fucking joke? Why don’t i just kill myslef. 1742.75 for a fuel pump? And 246.96 for the 1.8 engine. what in the name of all that is holy, i feel like killing someone. this has to be some sort of big error, no? Can’t i just get an aftermarket fuel pump?
Description Year List Price Core Price Your Price
FUEL PUMP, Integra, 1.7L 92-93 $2,323.66 $1,742.75
i wager the fucking oem fuel pump for the Mclaren F1 Supercar is cheaper than this. Is the GS-R fuel pump made from platinum-irriidum or some shit? This is ludicrous speed fellas. if this is true even by a stretch, i am going to become a 12 year old hindu boy and divorce my wife.
of course, you could always just get a walbro in-tank 255lph pump for 100 bucks from any of a numbre of places and that way you’ll be upgraded for the future.
well, i removed the ps belt and tightened the bolts back so the pump wouldn’t rattle around. took her for a test drive. it is actually not bad. at speed it is great. parking lots require more arms than i am used to, but not that bad. after reading some threads about this, most people complained that it was just toooo hard to turn after doing this. not true for me. maybe i already have an unintentional breather setup because of the leaks? it is not that hard to turn. i remember my friend’s first car when we were 16, the shittiest toyota tercel i have ever seen. it was rust orange. about 3/4 size of the G2 Tegs, and it was harder to steer than my car is, and shit, it wasn’t even pushing around the ps components; it had a manual rack.
well, i’ll see how it goes. i will probably do the loop back if i can get up enough energy to do it. thanks for the writeup, whoever did it, i got the MSWord Doc. It is pretty good.
was this some wikignome bullshit, or is it genuine? someone said that if you remove PS and AC belts, you no longer have a harmnic balancer. The fuck? Does this jive. And, do you know if the ps pump has an idler or something, i can’t think you would want it operating at crank 8000RPM? I guess it must be designed in with the pump pulley. Sorta like the AC clucth, or the mechanical fan i had on my jeep cherokee. it had a rotational liquid damper that made the fan spin at a different speed than its input shaft. Or i guess it was really a torque convertor, like on stupid auto trannies (sorry, brave leader)…i can’t see why anyone would get an auto? i am naive though. i love doing the shifting.
:crazy:
ps-think it is safer w/ ps though? for normal drivers anyway…i know my ladyfriends would lose her cool in my car. she would not want to drive it, but with ps she loves it.
