Readme

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Random Starting Problem..yes, i read sticky.

Collapse
X

Random Starting Problem..yes, i read sticky.

Collapse
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Random Starting Problem..yes, i read sticky.

    For some odd reason, my car doesn't start at random moments. The type of starting problem is: clicking. I've read the sticky thread and it states that it could be my battery. I use the Walmart Everstart batteries, and I really thought that was my source of problem. Well, since it has a 2 year free replacement, I changed it 4 times. - my car still clicks when trying to start it. Also, I notice the only times when it happens is either when the car cools down completely, or theres a gush of cold wind (70-80 deg), while the car is parked. Its embarassing because each time it does this I have to go outside, open my hood, and use a wire to the pos terminal to start it. I know its not the start because the wire trick does work...Someone pleeease shine the light on me!

    Update...I just read the thread on how to hook up a meter to see if something is draining the battery. I took out the neg terminal, and used the meter in between. Guess what? Freakin ~12.2 volts is running through. Is it suppose to read 0?

    #2
    loose connection? ignition switch?

    Comment


      #3
      should I change the wire going to the negative terminal?

      Comment


        #4
        I had the same problem with my car these past few days.. It was my starter so i wired a negative to my starter.. starts right up now.. check your distributor or maybe even the ignition switch.. my boss's prelude does the same too and it was his ignition switch..

        Comment


          #5
          voltmeter reads voltage differences... so you SHOULD read 12 volts if the negative is disconnected.. you are causing an open circuit... some of your accesories require 12 volts.. like your clock... your supposed to use an ammeter not a volt meter.... but before you hook up the ammeter yoru supposed to hook up a 12 volt test light to it...if the light is on bright, theres a high current draw... you need to pull individual fuses till the light goes off, or dims noticably to find your draw...and if the car is drawing somewhere then fix that.. that could be killing your battery... sounds like your battery voltage is kinda low(12.2) for a brand new battery.. normal newer batteries would be somewhere around 12.6 ..... id check if your alertnator is putting out enough voltage(should be 13.8-14.6) if its not then you should fix da bugga!


          but then again you did say itll crank when jumping it... could be high resistance within the control side...



          id help you out but you live far away

          Comment


            #6
            My battery gets 12.7 volts...

            I should of known that I needed an ammeter (total noob) because I pulled out every single fuse and still got ~12.2 volts when connecting volt meter inbetween ground. Where do I get a 12 volt test light? If not, I do have an ammeter from a guage set...how many amps is our cars suppose to draw normally? I don't know if its from battery drainage or high resistance somewhere.

            Also, I notice if my engine is still warm, or not fully cooled, my car does start. Is there any specific ground I should switch? I know for sure its not ignition switch because the starter clicks, as if the battery is dead. I believe there is high resistance somewhere along the starting system...I just can't pin point it. I'll talk to you on AIM when I see you on...

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by anirtak
              My battery gets 12.7 volts...

              I should of known that I needed an ammeter (total noob) because I pulled out every single fuse and still got ~12.2 volts when connecting volt meter inbetween ground. Where do I get a 12 volt test light? If not, I do have an ammeter from a guage set...how many amps is our cars suppose to draw normally? I don't know if its from battery drainage or high resistance somewhere.

              Also, I notice if my engine is still warm, or not fully cooled, my car does start. Is there any specific ground I should switch? I know for sure its not ignition switch because the starter clicks, as if the battery is dead. I believe there is high resistance somewhere along the starting system...I just can't pin point it. I'll talk to you on AIM when I see you on...
              i bought my shitty ass test light from walmart.... sears sells some or you can buy them online from tool distibutors...

              most meters only go up to 1 amp before the fuse blows... hence the reason you need to hook up the test light first... as for normal draw.. not sure on our cars.. cuz we have clock,ECU, and radio that needs a constant supply

              Comment

              Working...
              X