So I had these asshats at midas flush my coolant, and yeah long story there, they were smokin in my car, didnt get the 50/50 mixture right, took 5 guys working on my car to get it done, looked like they have never seen a honda before in there life. And on top of it all I think they broke my thermostat
I can drive for a long time and my engine temp now NEVER gets to full operating temp, its lucky to move slightly above cold, and if I stop for to long it dips down to C again.
My question is if this is a sign of a bad thermostat so I can just replace it, and reflush my coolant again and get my money back.
They probably didn’t bleed the system properly. Or they removed your thermostat, lol.
I would get a 12 mm closed end wrench, open your bleeder valve next to your upper radiator hose at the head, and top off your radiator fluid at the radiator cap, while car is off and cooled down, of course. And get a new thermostat, its an easy install. Fix your water temp. problem immediately, because there is a good chance that your running in limp mode when the temp doesn’t go much past the cold mark. The proper opperating temps must be reached.
I really encourage people to do as much maintenance themselves, because cheap repair shops are unscrupulous (sp), charge too much, suggest many unneccesary repairs (thats their income), and could do anything to your car.
No offense to any honest wrenchers out there. But our tegs deserve better than someone who doesn’t really care if they do the job right.
Yeah I know, I usually do all the work I can myself, but this time I was saying I was going to do this for weeks and weeks, and never got around to it, I didnt have the time and needed it done before i took a trip. So yeah this isnt normal for me.
I didnt think that they could have just forgoten to put the thing back in, that sure is a possibility lol.
So this underheating problem could be a sign of a bad thermostat? Or is it somthing else?
Im gonna call them and tell them to give me my money back and see if they will pay for the cost of a new thermo. I HATE CRAPPY MECHANICS!
And where is this bleeder scew, i know there is one but I cant find where it is, the upper rad. hose that connects right below the cam seal I see a bolt on top and below there the rad. hose connects, is it one of those? Cuz those look like there holding somthing not bleeders.
I highly doubt that its a problem w/ air in the cooling system. That would cause the car to overheat, not overcool. Your problem is almost certainly your thermostat. I can’t think of anything else that would cause overcooling. And I have personally experienced overcooling due to a bad thermostat.
Or like the other guy said, they could have removed your thermostat. However it doesn’t seem very likely. You don’t need to remove the water neck in order to flush the cooling system. So if they removed the thermostat then they were doing a lot of extra work for no reason.
I suggest you just change the thermostat. Its easy, its cheap,and even if the old one is still good its not a bad idea to throw in a new one since they’re so cheap. Or you can test the old thermostat. Typically you put the thermostat in hot water and measure the temp at which it opens. However if you are experiencing overcooling, the thermostat is probably stuck open all of the time. So it will most likely be apparent that its bad right when you pull it out.
They hooked it up to a machine and it looked like the disconnected it at the upper radiator hose and a machine pumped the old fluiod out and put new in…
The thermostat housing is on the back of the block by the intake mani, where that radiator hose is connecting right? or is it by where the upper hose connects right below the cam seal?
Im just gonna replace the thermo and reflush it myself, after those retards did it there was black chunks of stuff floating around anyways, probably bits of my thermostat seal from the idiots not replaceing it right…
Where is a good place to buy them? Should I get OEM, NAPA?? And do they come with seals and everything or is there other parts I should get?
Do I just loosen this bolt or does it need to be removed? Is it like a hollow bolt? And it needs to be opened with the engine running and at operating temp so the thermo is open right? Or in my case anytime lol
First off, I suggest you buy a manual. You really should have a Helms, but if thats too much $$ then you should at least get a Haynes or Chiltons.
The thermostat is located in the thermostat housing which is located at the end of the lower radiator hose (obviously the end that is located at the engine, not the end that connects to the radiator).
As for the bleeder valve. Just loosen it when you fill the cooling system, once water runs out of the bleeder and you don’t see any air coming out… tighten the valve to spec, and you’re done. I usually use the bleeder valve, but its really not even that necessary, the cooling system will “burp” out most any air anyway. I’ve drained my cooling system and/or swapped engines (both used and fully rebuilt) many many times. I’ve never had any problems with air in the cooling system. And I didn’t use the bleeder valve each and every time. You might as well use it though, its easy, and quick…just an extra precaution.
OK so update, first off my engine is a 96’ B20, didnt think that made a difference but I found by searching that the newer heads dont have bleeder bolts…what do ya know… Anyone know if I can jack the neck off my 91’ B18 and slap it on there so I have a bleeder bolt?
SO that explains why everyone probably thought i was an idiot that couldnt find the bleeder screw lol
Second it seems to be working better now, and they wont give me my money back because they say I have no way of proving that what did did caused the thermo to fail. So I ordered a HELMS, I had a HAYNES, but it was for a 94 and up teg (I bought the book before i bought my car and i wanted one from that gen lol) ANd ill just buy a new thermo and coolant.
Yay cant wait to try my hand at those thermostat cover bolts WHOO HOOO :dance: NOT
I totally agree, a while back I took my car to 3 different places to have them tell me wtf was wrong with my car when I wasnt running right and wouldnt stop jerking really bad if you gave it any throttle at all, I only went to the places that offered to check it out for free, and the closest they got was that my car had a different motor in it and would never run right, thats what was causing my car to jerk horribly bad for no reason out of nowhere…YEAH RIGHT IDIOTS!
I fixed the problem myself by walking back out into the parking lot of the auto shop, seeing a owner of another G2 and asked them to pop their hood, looked around in there hood and noticed one thing that was different, our MAP sensors, theres was on the firewall while mine was on the TB.
When my engine was installed the wires were extened and twisted together, these wires became loose, and where sitting on my intake mani. SO everytime i gave the car gas it would pull on these wires, disconecteding them sending the car into severe limp mode, then when I let off the gas the wires would be rejoined causing the engine to run ok again, this jerking the living hell out of me inside.
Ok update, I finnally fixed it, replaced the thermo and reflushed the system myself last night, replaced the b20 waterneck with the b18, so yes they do fit. Works better than ever now, I KNEW THEY BROKE IT…I just cant get them to take responsibility for it…