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overheating problem

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    overheating problem

    I just replaced my radiator and thermastate and the waterpump is not leaking and i have my fans running at all times. But the car overheats still, and i have no heat. Air still blows but no heat at all. How could this be related to my car overheating, the heatercore? This problem has me confused. Im not losing any coolant.

    #2
    Bleed coolant

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      #3
      If there is air in the coolant system would that cause my heat to go out in the car? Im postive the control to turn it from hot to cold is working?

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        #4
        yes cuz think of it... when you have an air pocket air doesn't transfer heat from the head as fast as water/coolant does (plz tell me you can already visualize this).

        Air's temperature will also rise easier then water under pressure. Now the heater core has a inlet house from the top of the block (hottest coolant after absorbing from the head). If you have an air pocket which is what you have there will be no hot coolant in the heatercore to heat up the air of the fan going through... think of it if you have some hot air and consistently have a cold fan behind it you ain't gonna get much hot air.

        Like he said above search for bleed coolant and do it fast... cuz although the relative temperature of the air will throw your coolant sensor up to max fast it doesn't necessarily mean that the head is damaged YET. However you just did all this and you are risking not bleeding.

        Also, when air get's hot it expands right?? so when that air pocket gets hot it will expand and the pressure will force more coolant into the reservoir effectively replacing coolant with air and increasing the severity of your problem.

        Does that explain it?? Trust me i bought a car with a fubar'd heat gasket and i burn coolant i get the same problem... can't afford new engine and the head is already screwed (2 and 3 spark plug seized) so i just top up every week and i'm alright. But in your situation hopefully you haven't overheated it to the point you've done some damage to the head.

        later

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          #5
          alright i tryed bleeding it not sure if i was doing it right? I first took off the pressure cap on the radiator and ran the car, there was lots of bubbles flying out but it went on for like a half an hour and didn't stop, how long does it take to totally bleed the system?

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            #6
            Scratch that i was doing it for about a hour and opening up the bleeder valve. Is there just such a huge air bubble or is there another problem. How do air bubbles get into the coolant.

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              #7
              you need to bleed your radiater system thingy...i didn't have problems with overheating when i didn't do it, but i had other problems with my car...its pretty easy...look by where your upper radiator hose goes into the block and there's a bleeder screw thingamahjig...

              lemme just write what the haynes manual says:

              Refilling
              To refill the system, install the thermostat, reconnect any radiator hoses and install the reservoir and the overflow hose.

              Place the heater temperature control in the maximum heat position.

              be sure to use the proper coolant mixture listed in this chapter's specifications (yours is obviously already filled, but in case you wanna drain your system and do it the way the manual says...) Loosen the air bleed bolt, located on the water outlet where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine. slowly fill the radiator with the recommended mixture of antifreeze and water to the base of the filler neck, make sure a steady, bubble-free stream flows out from the bleed bolt, then tighten the bleed bolt securely. add coolant to the reservoir until it reaches the full cold mark.


              yadda yadda...you get the point...also...is it a new radiator or did you have it fixed or is it used...i know with mine, i'm a broke ass so i dumped a ton of that stop leak shit in there and it screws up the circulation...if you did the same, take it to a radiator shop and have em' boil all that shit out...its like 10 bucks or something...

              the halfrican...


              one day the world will be only halfricans...!

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                #8
                I know how to do that, that was what i was doing. But i was doing it for like a hour. I don't think it should take that long. Anybody know how long it should take, it shouldn't take anymore than a hour?

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                  #9
                  Turn the engine off, open the bleeder screw, fill the radiator, only takes a couple minutes. If you keep getting bubbles when the engine is running, maybe you have a blown head gaskit.

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                    #10
                    yeah, engine OFF. open bleeder screw and fill coolant untill a steady stream of coolant come out the bleeder screw. then tighten the screw. check your extra coolant tank. start the car and you should be set to go. if your still over heating you got other problems.

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                      #11
                      there's many ways to bleed the system... my car got fubar'd because of that stupid bleeder valve. It actually unscrewed and i lost coolant through there.

                      So after talking to many ppl what i did was scap that stupid upper cast piece that connects to the upper house with the bleed valve. Instead go out and pick up a 94-up integra one for 12 bucks cdn up here.

                      Then after you have that changed fill your coolant like you normally would. WITH YOUR CAR COLD. Place the rad cap on and start the car... take the rad cap off (just put it on so the initial turn doesn't shoot coolant all over the place).

                      Now you sit with your car unloaded., squeeze the upper and lower house and the heater hose every now and then.. don't press on gas anything... just leave it... when you hear the fan come on at least twice you are done.

                      The bleed screw was made to eliminate the procedure i just told you by filling it with the bleed screw open. But, it isn't as effective either. That's why any b-engine over 94(or 96 i think) scrapped it.

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                        #12
                        oh yah put your heater control maximum heat... or else nothing is being bleed through your heater core

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                          #13
                          and for my car it takes about 20-25ish minutes for the fan to kick in the first time.

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