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check engine light with redline

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check engine light with redline

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    check engine light with redline

    i was wondering if anyone else has a problem with a check engine light when they get close to redline. everytime i am driving crazy to some normal for any real teg driver and i get it up to around 6000 rpms the check engine light will come on, but i cant run a diagnostic on it because when i cut the car off and then back on the light goes off...any ideas???

    #2
    check the code while the car is still on if you have obd-0. just stop somewhere and pull the carpet back and look next time the light shows up. even with the light off, it may read something on the ECU though, you might as well try it.

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      #3
      dude i got the same problem! i don't know what that is. i changed the alternator, then it started going on. *shrugs* i call it my shift light. very ghetto...

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        #4
        just because the check engine light goes off when you restart the car doesn't mean you can't check it. once the cel comes on, it is stored in the computer until you reset it.

        check what code it is throwing and post back.

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          #5
          I am gonna check to code today and see what i get so i will keep you posted

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            #6
            ok so i got a code 8 which has something to do with the tdc sensor but from there i am lost...anyone else have this problem and know how to fix it?

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              #7
              im not positive, but i believe that sensor is in the distributor. if so, you'll have to replace the distributor. i'm on my 3rd distributor because of a stupid code 9.

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                #8
                I had that problem too. Only when i played with the throttle position sensor.
                When the sensor was too far advanced (like advancing the static ignition timing on the distributor) The cel came on, without fail. But when the tps was retarded to the maximum the cel never turned on.

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                  #9
                  Or the ignitor inside the distributor is overheating (lack of heat sink compound) whiched caused my car to show incorrect rpm (bouncy). Cleaning and replacing the compound fixed it. Make sure u put a nice even layer in between the ignitor and the mating metal plate.

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                    #10
                    how do you go about advancing or retarding the tps...i never heard of that...and where do i get heat sink compound for the igniter?

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                      #11
                      To adjust the tps, the throttle body has to be removed from the car. To adjust the tps there are two screws that hold the tps. But the screws have no provisions for a screw driver. The screws can be removed by lightly tapping the screws with a pin punch in an anti-clockwise direction. Or u can try vice grips. U can replace the screws with an allen key type for easy future adjustment.(i think they are an metric 6 or a metric 4) Index the postion of the tps so you know where u are, or if u decide to go back to standard. Simple as that. Moving the tps the same direction as the throttle will retard the tps and vice versa. Heat sink compund can be bought from any electronic hobbie shop. Maybe radio shack??? (im Australian) or try an electrical wholesaler.

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