extremely high cold idle.. colder it gets higher it gets

ASSISTANCE Stock Engine-Bay Components
1

last year the car would idle around 2000rpm for about 100feet than drop to around 1600… last nite with the coldfront we had… the thing was sitting in front my house idled at around 2300rpm and wouldnt come down… and i drove it about 4 blocks before that… it was still full on cold… anybody got any ideas?

fluids havent been messed with since the thermostat at the beginning of last winter… so i dont know how air could have gotten in there

nothing like having to ride the brake in traffic in the mornings because the car wants to do 30mph at idle

i can put the thing in 2nd and just let the clutch out and the car will go on its own without even my foot on the gas

2

You might want to try checking out your FITV and your IACV. It is possible that these just need to be cleaned or replaced.

READ THIS to start; it might contain some good information for you.

Also, you may want to search for ‘fluctuating idle’ or ‘idle high’ or something like that… you might find some threads with applicable info.

Good luck :up:

3

but when its warmer outside it works perfect… also once the car warms (any outside temperature) up it idles around 800rpm… which i consider pretty good

both were cleaned recently and i have done the high idle stuff recently… right before summer started… so say around april… it didnt change nothing

4

Okay, well here’s the only other thing I can think of, and it’s a long shot.

Fact: When the car is warm, it idles fine. (750 is spec, so 800 should be fine)
Fact: When the car is cold, the idle fluctuates.
Fact: IACV and FITV are clean and functional.
Fact: Vacuum can have a profound impact on run quality and idling.

Assuming all of the above are true, then here’s my VERY ‘long-shot’ hypothesis.

You might have a vacuum line that has a breach in it, but the breach only becomes very apparent at cold temperatures, when the cold has caused the material of the vacuum line to contract and cause the breach to be more prominent. By warming the car, and therefore warming the engine bay, the material of the vacuum line expands, effectively sealing (partially or wholly) the breach in said vacuum line, and stabilizing idle.

I know, I know, this is a serious stretch; I don’t even know if it’s possible. But it’s about all I can think of at this point. Anything else, and it’s gonna have to come from someone with more knowledge than me.

5

vaccum leaks dont hold constant idles tho… ive had a decent size one before and the car would idle up to makeup vaccum… than it would drop thinking it had enuf… and when it didnt it would go up again… i got a steady idle

6

I’m prone to agree with you… like I said, it was a long-shot idea, but I’m trying to come up with somethin’ for ya bro

7

radzer0… let me know if you find anything out…

my teg idles at about 2300 rpm also when it’s very cold out, but after only 30 sec. it does come down and eventually will also idle at 800 rpm when fully warm…btw my car has a vacum of -68Kpa at idle… is that good or bad…