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Ignitor or Coil???

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Ignitor or Coil???

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    Ignitor or Coil???

    For a while now, sometimes my car wouldn't start, usually when it was hot or I hit VTEC. There was no click when I put the key to the on position and my car wouldn't start. I'd wait a little and it'd click and it'd start right up. (FYI: I'm throwing a No.1 position Sensor code and a some others that I can't remember).
    Well now it don't want to start at all, waited for like a half hour and no dice. Not until my battery was almost dead and it doesn't have power to crank will it click. So my question's this, is it my Ignitor or coil, will LS parts fit into my B16 distributor? I did a search and almost had my answers but the guys ended up getting a whole new distributor from somewhere else and my questions never got answered. TIA

    Matt

    #2
    Check ur mail fuel relay.

    Comment


      #3
      Where's that? If it's the one, near the steering column under the dash, a rectangle one about 2.5" by 1", I checked it and it's good.
      I forgot to mention that when I turn the key to "ON" and there's no click, there's also no power to the ECU. No light at all.

      Comment


        #4
        Could be your ignition switch in the steering column.

        Comment


          #5
          Coil

          Changed the coil, and it fires up. I'm only throwin a code 9 now - No. 1 cylinder position sensor. Wouldn't start on a couple occassions but after a crank or two it started right up. Ran good for a couple days, but I got on it a few times and now my car's runnin like shit, sputtering and feels like it's only running on 2 cylinders or something. It'll sputter have a lapse in power then do it again, power, sputter. It's really annoying. Coil couldn've burnt out, or the Ignitor's getting worse. I don't know, I'll get them both checked and keep everyone updated.

          Edit: I got a coil for a 90 Integra LS for my B16 dropped right in.

          Matt

          Comment


            #6
            with the symtoms you described, i had the same... i changed the starter and NEVER had that happen again.

            Comment


              #7
              It's been starting pretty good now, and the starter wouldn't have anything to do with it runnin like shit. Thanx anyhow.
              I had a question for everyone though.
              When I took the coil out, I could see deeper in the distributor and noticed a bundle of copper wire wound loosely around that little shaft, kinda looked like brillo or something. Well I pulled most of it out Could this be part of my problem? Is it possible I need a whole new distributor? LMK

              I'm gonna get the coil and ignitor checked and I'll post again.

              Matt

              Comment


                #8
                sounds like you have the same problem i have/had (im finnally getting my new distributor in the next couple days) code 9 apparently the sensor is being messed up by those metal filings u see in there i think are from the bearing deteriorating. my car had a noticable loss in power and mileage took the crap...time for a new dizzy

                Comment


                  #9
                  I think you're right. I got the ignition module (control module, ignitor, depends on who u go to) checked and it failed all but one of the tests. Coil passed. I got another and now my car don't stutter, haven't driven long distance like to work but took a little town cruise and it seems ok. Power is shitty and I'm sure gas mileage is gonna be the same. As long as I can get where I'm going without it running like it was I'll live.
                  "deonsbedroom" You've got a B16 Integ too?

                  Matt

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Any metal in the distributor housing is bad. Codes 1 and 9 are for the magnetic pickup assemblies that tell the ECU which cylinder the motor is on, and uses #1 for TDC reference. If you continue to throw codes you cn do one of 2 things:

                    But a new/rebuilt distributor...Or even easier..rebuild yours..

                    Take a Know good distributor from any OBD1 Honda/Acura car (Make sure this car has the same plug configuration as you car does ((Single grey plug or Dual plug )...Yes that's right, All Honda distributors for OBD1 cars use the same damn pickup units!!!, Take the 3 phillips screws off the top of the distributor bracket around the perimter of the unit that holds the shaft in place. When you get this out, remove the circlip from the distributor drive dog and the dowel. (Befiore you remove the dowell index the bottom of the distributor with the drive dog so you will NOT install the drive dog 180 out)
                    Then gently tap the distributor main shaft from the drive dog side and remove the entire shaft assembly. Remove the 6 philips screws that hold in the pickup units and remove the complete unit with wire harness.

                    Install is reverse of removal, just make sure the drive dog goes back in the right way.

                    I had a 94 GSR distributor in my B16 conversion on my EG and kept throwing code 1, I used the pickup units from the old Dseries unit I have in the garge. Works great. Alos did the same for a 91 Accord for my father using an E-bay D series unit I got for $25... Sure beats spending $125 on a rebuilt Pep Boys unit!!!

                    Jeff

                    Comment


                      #11
                      No start:

                      Check these first:

                      Check the mian relay..When you turn the key to run, the mil light should come on an for 2 seconds and then go off. While this is happening, listen for the "click" on the let side of the dash. No click, bad relay.

                      Here's how to tell if you have a bad coil or ignitor:

                      1)Remove the distributor cap, and connect a voltmeter between the coil negative wire and ground ( This wire color varies from car to car, but is NOT the yellow/black or black/yellow) Check for cranking voltage and record.

                      2)Remove the positive wire from the coil to the ignitor (In most cases is either yellow/black or black/yellow) Connect a voltmeter between the coil negative wire and ground. Check for cranking voltage and record.

                      If you have 8V for step 1 and 10V for step 2, you have a bad coil.
                      If you have 10v for steps 1 and 2, you have a bad ignitor.
                      If you have 10v for steps 1 and 2, then replace the ignitor, retest and then have 8 volts for step 1 and 10v for step 2, you ALSO have bad coil (It is possible that a shorted coil WILL cause and ignitor to fry)

                      Hope this helps more..

                      Jeff

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by jasyatz
                        Any metal in the distributor housing is bad. Codes 1 and 9 are for the magnetic pickup assemblies that tell the ECU which cylinder the motor is on, and uses #1 for TDC reference. If you continue to throw codes you cn do one of 2 things:

                        But a new/rebuilt distributor...Or even easier..rebuild yours..

                        Take a Know good distributor from any OBD1 Honda/Acura car (Make sure this car has the same plug configuration as you car does ((Single grey plug or Dual plug )...Yes that's right, All Honda distributors for OBD1 cars use the same damn pickup units!!!, Take the 3 phillips screws off the top of the distributor bracket around the perimter of the unit that holds the shaft in place. When you get this out, remove the circlip from the distributor drive dog and the dowel. (Befiore you remove the dowell index the bottom of the distributor with the drive dog so you will NOT install the drive dog 180 out)
                        Then gently tap the distributor main shaft from the drive dog side and remove the entire shaft assembly. Remove the 6 philips screws that hold in the pickup units and remove the complete unit with wire harness.

                        Install is reverse of removal, just make sure the drive dog goes back in the right way.

                        I had a 94 GSR distributor in my B16 conversion on my EG and kept throwing code 1, I used the pickup units from the old Dseries unit I have in the garge. Works great. Alos did the same for a 91 Accord for my father using an E-bay D series unit I got for $25... Sure beats spending $125 on a rebuilt Pep Boys unit!!!

                        Jeff
                        I've got an OBD0 dizzy. And there's like star screws in it. Am I going to mess with those at all? Can I use the guts from an OBD1 and fit it into my OBD0?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by matt1600
                          I think you're right. I got the ignition module (control module, ignitor, depends on who u go to) checked and it failed all but one of the tests. Coil passed. I got another and now my car don't stutter, haven't driven long distance like to work but took a little town cruise and it seems ok. Power is shitty and I'm sure gas mileage is gonna be the same. As long as I can get where I'm going without it running like it was I'll live.
                          "deonsbedroom" You've got a B16 Integ too?

                          Matt

                          yeah i got a b16a in my teg (91xsi) im in the process of restoring it so everything i put on it from here on in will be new (as far as possible) i got the obd0 dizzy from distributor king for US$250 shipped not bad IMO http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33690

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Still Shitty

                            Well, got an ignitor. Car worked fine for a little bit. But today when I went to start it, when I got off work, it didn't want to start . It clicked, as it should, then clicked off (well check engine light turned off) Also, on the way to work it stuttered, not as bad as before, but it did. I'm gonna get another battery, cause when I was cranking it it died. Only after like 5 short cranks. I'm so pissed, I went out and bought all these parts and it's still fucked up.

                            What's everyone's opinion? Should I just break down and get a whole new dizzy from distributor king and battery? Someone here's selling one should, I take the risk or quit trying to save? Could the battery be part of the problem? Thanx peoples.

                            Matt

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by jasyatz
                              No start:

                              Check these first:

                              Check the mian relay..When you turn the key to run, the mil light should come on an for 2 seconds and then go off. While this is happening, listen for the "click" on the let side of the dash. No click, bad relay.

                              Here's how to tell if you have a bad coil or ignitor:

                              1)Remove the distributor cap, and connect a voltmeter between the coil negative wire and ground ( This wire color varies from car to car, but is NOT the yellow/black or black/yellow) Check for cranking voltage and record.

                              2)Remove the positive wire from the coil to the ignitor (In most cases is either yellow/black or black/yellow) Connect a voltmeter between the coil negative wire and ground. Check for cranking voltage and record.

                              If you have 8V for step 1 and 10V for step 2, you have a bad coil.
                              If you have 10v for steps 1 and 2, you have a bad ignitor.
                              If you have 10v for steps 1 and 2, then replace the ignitor, retest and then have 8 volts for step 1 and 10v for step 2, you ALSO have bad coil (It is possible that a shorted coil WILL cause and ignitor to fry)

                              Hope this helps more..

                              Jeff
                              I took both parts to Autozone to get tested and they both failed miserably. I replaced the parts but I'm "GUESSING/ASSUMING" (I say that for me) now that the whole distributor's messed up and I should get another. Based on how old the engine is and the mess of wires hanging about inside the distributor.
                              Thanx a bunch for the support.

                              Matt

                              Comment


                                #16
                                Got a whole new dizzy, runs great.

                                Comment

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