Okay if any body has read any of my threads could see that my car is basicly plaegued with problems. My car didnt start worth a Sh*t, My Transmission was gone, I have the leaky passenger floor problem, Engine rod was broke in half. (The list grows…) Well i started fresh and bought a b18b1 from a 99 for a deal that was a STEAL. Along with that a new transmission for a good price. Well after completing the worlds longest engine swap (4 weeks) I finished and ran into 3 problems. After puting coolant,oil, and trans fluid into the car, I noticed the coolant draining from one of the worst place imaginable. The back of the engine, right there at that tube where it meets the waterpump going to the thermostat problem. 2 was that i still havnt found how to put the water temp sensor on the new block since b18b1’s have no hole for it on the back of the block where it used to go. I read the Engine swap guide and still stumped on how u move it to the thermostat :wtf: housing. Now the whole reason i made this thread was my electrical problem. The other 2 dont really matter to me cause their not that easy of a fix but do-able. But I charged the battery and was about to do the engines first crank. I get into the car and hear a weird clicking noise coming from the seatbelt clicker thing. I turn the key to the on position and the lights come on in the dash but no beep. I know the problem with this is something to do with the Seat belt control unit. (little box by the ECU) SO i crank it and the car doesnt turn on. I check if the spark is good coming out the distributor and its okay. Loosen the fuel hose to see if i got preasure but have nothing even though the engine light comes on for 3 seconds to tell me the fuel pump is primed. I Turn the key back to off and my oil light and some other light are dim but still on. and the clicking from the seat belt come back on. I disconnect the little control unit cause the noise was pissing me off. I turn on my lights to see if they come on but all stay off even my fogs. turn the key back to on and step on the brake to shift the car into neutral. The shiftlock silanoid did not disengage to let me shift out of park. I some how pressed the horn to honk but instead of noise the Oil light got brighter. Does any body got any input? Really could use some. I’ve been looking over schimatic over schmatic and located a problem could be on fuse no.23 but i got to check if i might be right. Anybody?
all i gotta say is that with how much that sucks its funny as shit that you hit the horn and the oil light gets brighter. ok check all your fuses and then if they are all good, well get a new wiring harness after all that check everything. thats all i can say sorry.
Your starting problem may not be related to everything else – some of those problems sound like a bad ICU (integrated control unit). This will make your oil light come on (very dimly sometimes), also it controls some warning buzzers, etc. Super expensive from the dealer but you can one from the junkyard, people on here, etc. See info below…
It’s all related. It’s posted here on the site somewhere. The ICU controls the oil pressure warning light, seat belt chime/beep (this was the ghostly one for me), headlight on warning chime, low fuel light, rear defrost, intermit wipers, also shuts the warning chimes off when the igniton key is set to “on” positon when the door is open - missed that alot.
The ICU is behind the fuse block. You need to remove entire panel that covers the fuse block. To do that, lift the plastic panel from the door sill - dont’ worry it snaps back in. Then remove three plastic screws from the panel, give it a good yank. That will reveal the fuse block.
To remove it, first disconnect the battery - you don’t want to short anything else out. Then remove some the connectors that attatch to the block closest to you - this makes it easier later to remove the ICU.
Use a 10 mm socket wrench to remove two bolts, one on top and one on the bottom. Block pops out, carefully pry out the ICU near the tabs with a flat screwdriver - top and bottom - disconnect the ICU from the harness.
Pop in the new one. I plugged everything back in and tested it before I remounted the fuse block, your choice. Installation is reverse order.
Once you have it in, you’ll feel great about it.
I got mine at;
$35, $40 shipped. They have a 60 return policy so if you get a bummer ICU you can exchange it. They have good stuff, mine worked without a hitch. I’ve also got a steering pump from them, $50, with no problems.
crazy thing, this specific problem happened to me ONCE. it turned out to be the horn/shiftlock fuse, located in the fuse box under the hood. (i hate the fact that one fuse controls both) my car would turn on but wouldnt shift out of “Park” and my horn wouldnt work it would light up a different light in my cluster everytime i pressed it. Try checking it out, make sure its the correct amp fuse, and if you have make sure you check the ICU (like the above post says)
good luck!