Im trying to install a obd1 motor but have no §§§§§, ignition or ecu, the motor is bare with no sensores…
what do i need to complete my obd1 motor? I rather not stick with obd0.
well what year is your car? if you just want it to run obd-1 ecu just get a obd-1 ecu and a distributor and take the plug off the obd-0 and put it on the obd-1 distributor or they sell jumpers to go from obd-0 to obd-1 but if you want to go complete you need a harness and a coolent housing with the sencer on it.
i have a 91 obd0 ls, so what im trying to do is avoid chopping up wires to install a obd1 b20b. shops can rewire acd cut but that tends to leed to random problemes like shut downs and lighting. So im willing to do the entire change over to ease the swaps plug and play.
so far i know i need the distributore, ecu and harness. Would i need a new intake manifold. And what coolant housing did you mean, the thermostat housing?
Read this. Then read it again. Something confuses you? Read it again, search. Read it again. There’s a lot to comprehend here.
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86612&highlight=obd1+conversion
That should get you through the basics, although it is quite old. As for the sensors, most of the parts from your old motor should transfer over, and that means they’ll plug right into your harness as well. You’ll probably want to use the newer (92+) style of ECT switch (located on the Thermostat housing) since I don’t believe the b20b block has provisions for the other style.
Typically when people swap b20’s they also change the intake manifold. You could re-use your stock one or purchase a different OEM or even aftermarket one. Different years and models will be setup slightly differently, so it’s hard to give exact instructions when it will depend on the exact throttle body and manifold setup you decide to use.
:shock: man its a huge mission to convert from obd0 to 1. I mean i tend to bar the motor if its not a b20 and teh ref wont bar anything that has jumper kits. It all has to be legit and oem.
would the same rule apply if i did any other swap like a gsr or h22a, shops would just use a jumper kit to ease the swap?
[QUOTE=half twisted;2068386]:shock: man its a huge mission to convert from obd0 to 1. I mean i tend to bar the motor if its not a b20 and teh ref wont bar anything that has jumper kits. It all has to be legit and oem.
would the same rule apply if i did any other swap like a gsr or h22a, shops would just use a jumper kit to ease the swap?[/QUOTE]
It’s actually quite easy to do the conversion.
You need to go to another State Ref. Jumper harnesses are perfectly legal (unless they have recently changed the rules). When I wrote that swap guide many years back OBD conversions were new, almost no one was doing them and jumper harnesses were just starting to pop up on the market. I was in contact with my local BAR Ref and would call him to talk about how best to make my swap 100% legal. There is no problem running a jumper harness as long as the system functions 100% the way it does in the vehicle the engine originally came from.
Different referees have slightly different standards. For instance there are transmission and gas tank technicalities that they can fail you on, but most of the time they don’t worry about those aspects. But I’ve never heard of a Ref having a problem w/ a jumper harness and know of multiple people using them who have legit BAR stickers.
Colin is right. It’s not a big deal at all to do the obd0 to obd1 conversion. I did the actual swap in about 2 hours which included re-installing an LC-1 o2 sensor, making the obd0 to obd1 distributor jumper, etc… That was taking my sweet time too. If you don’t have a distributor or ecu, than go obd1. You will be very happy you did. I’ve noticed a pretty big difference between the two on my B20vtec. Also, if you decide to change out the intake, I have a stock b16 one I would let go for a pretty reasonable price.
yeah i just did the conversion too …took me about two hours as well l
just plug in the conversion harness with new obd1 ecu …run the extension harness for the o2 sensor and vtec wires thru the firewall and hook them up to the new 4 wire 02 sensor and vtec and iab’s if you have a gsr
and switch the pins for the distributor plugs or get adapter harnesses for them too
now she should run with obd1
and to switch the injectors to obd1 you need to remove the resistor box and splice all of the wires together
do the vtec obd1 engines have a resistor box?
no they do not
is there a difference in the obd1 distributor for vtec and non-vtec
yes the distributors are different
but only the mounting points because the cylinder heads are different the internals are the same
I have a OBD0 b16 distributor if u plan to stay oem obd0. That is if u have a vtec head. I’d try it on my non vtec head and it works but like they say the bolt up pattern is off by two bolt, but it does run ur car. just saying
During my rebuild i had 4 distributors complete laying around. I had 2 bad iginitor and coil so i was swapping it back and forth for use on my fresh rebuild and since i may tossed it or just crap up in garage.
its a spare i do not need. i am not sure if i still have the ignitor or and coil with it, but if u was not so far i’d probably drop off or free. so u can rack up the other parts if u plan to stay obd0 i guess… Still free though if anyone local wants it, but if i cant find the coil and ignitor to it then u will need ur own but it does work. if its complete and tested working i want $10 bucks but if it cost 10 bucks to ship as well thats all i need
cool thenks for the input guys, I almost bought a ls §§§§§.
thanks for the offer RiccyLSR but I was looking to run it obd1. I guess its cuz of the better tuneing options.