ok i have a 91 ls that i just swaped a jdm b16a ob0. i have a pw0 ecu and run the engine on 93 octane. ok here is my problems
1 when i get the car to operating temp and floor it sometimes my VTECH wont kick in feels like i dont have any power then when i get to 6500 or so it will pick back up. but here over the past week or so it will go all the way to red line and will still not kick in sometimes.
2
now it is also throwing cel and it gives me two codes the knock sensor 23 and a code 2 i have watched those lights blink a hundred times thinking i missed a blink but it flashes 2 quick blinks and then it goes to 23. i have reset the ecu 3 or 4 times it will run ok for a while but if i get on it throws the two codes and VTECH acts up. hope someone has some insite thank you
Im no expert on the operation of vtec, but im sure if the knock sensor dectecs knock, then it wont let vtec kick on, so you need to figgure out if its knocking, how is the ignition timing?
everything I find about a code 2 is oxygen sensor B, what car does the pw0 ecu come in(and with what motor) also how many o2 sensors do you have, 1 I would asume, if so that would be why I would think its coming on
you knock sensor could be going bad, change your o2sensor, and get an obd0 pr3 thats the ecu for the b16 motor. i think pw0 is a single cam ecu. that could be some of your problem but a stock b16 doesnt have much power ecspecialy after 100mph
No… Pw0 is a b16 ecu as well, and what I have in my teg to control my B20 vtec.
2: Oxygen Sensor “B”
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
23: KS (Knock Sensor)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
I believe BLKACK1 is right about the ecu detecting knock and not allowing the vtec solenoid to kick the vtec on. My pw0 is chipped and has both the knock sensor and secondary o2 sensor disabled. I would make sure both sensors are plugged in well, if that doesn’t work replace them with known good sensors.
my car is having sorta the same problems. first thing when the car is cold but warm enough for the vtec to kick on, it runs great all the way to 8k. ones is gets warmed up, it slugs from vtec to about 6k and then picks back up again. i never have a problem with the vtec not working, just that slow spot. i have a pr3. is that 2nd o2 missing causing this?
if its obd0 it should only have1 i think
it is obd0 but the jdm b16 requires 2. i know that you can get it chiped to use one, but on stock computer, it takes 2
Even if both o2 sensors are plugged in, sometimes it will still read one is not working. Even with the knock sensor code, VTEC will still work so that’s not the problem, trust me. If you are bogging, try switching the plugs of the o2 sensors with one another. If that doesn’t work then your only option is to upgrade to OBD1 and you’re o2 sensor problems will be gone.
ok well that could be the problem cause when i did the swap i used the stock exaust mani off my b18 and it only has one o2 sensor i still have the one that came with my motor so i will put it on and run the wire for the second 02 sensor and go have the exuaust pipe extended and see if tha will solve it and see if i can get a pr3 ecu to see if that will help too cause i did hear that it is a better ecu anyways thanks guys for all your insight.
PR3 will not make anything better unless it’s chipped to not read the o2 sensors, which is still bad. What you can do is go to a muffler shop and make them weld a bung hole for the 2nd o2 sensor. I actually have a header if you want. All you have to do is pay me for shipping to cover the cost; it has 2 holes for 2 o2 sensors. Can you rev to 8000? If not something else is wrong and you need to make sure the vtec wires are hooked up right. Even with those problems you can still hit vtec and rev high still.
i can rev high with my issue, i can tell when it hits vtec, but i didn’t know if the bogging could be caused by the missing o2 sensor
Yes, just get the other o2 sensor hooked up to see if it fixes the problem.
hmm. what about when you get it chiped to remove that second o2 reading? same principal?
In that case you might as well chip it to remove both o2 sensors…
Ok… First things first… You need to deal with the problems that are causing you to get a CEL. If you have a CEL, you shouldn’t even be trying to get into vtec at all IMHO. I would get to the bottom of that first. Check your o2 sensor, get the other one installed, and make sure your knock sensor is working. Deleting the o2 sensors altogether is only a good idea if you have a proper tune that will do better by itself than to use the o2 sensor. Having no o2 causes the ecu to run in open loop mode, which reads directly from the fuel maps rather than use the o2 to stabilize your afr. In other words, you better have some pretty decent fuel maps if you plan to delete the o2 sensor. Your gas mileage will also suffer. Do yourself, and your motor a huge favor, and fix the root of the problem, don’t sweep it under the rug.