lsv...white smoke

my car been sitting for about 2 months and got my lsv set-up running today. its blowing a lot of white smoke. is this normal?

white = water
blue = oil
black = fuel

water=coolant?

“coolant” or “antifreeze” is water based and has additives to help reduce corrosion and buildup as well as lower the freezing temperature.

You can buy the pre-mixed stuff or the full strength and then mix it with water (what I like to do).

:umno:

do i have leak somewhere?? my friend had a lot of smoke too when he did his pistons. the smoke had gone away for like 2 days of driving.

thanks for the info colin. i go with the second choice.

get some coolant dye from a parts store let it run a day and hit it with a uv light

When he did his pistons, it was probably oil burning off. If you think you may have a leak, do a compression test.

:iagree:

ok…i fixed my timing on my distributor and have a little smoke. Sorry but its bluish smoke. I have that color eye problem so my friend told me about it.
i am guessing have an oil leak so i think my head-gasket is cracked…i have ARP and Golden Eagle head gasket and torqued down to 70 or 75, i forgot…can it be that problem? the box wasn’t clear of torque numbers.

also i have problem with my timing…i put the crank pulley tdc…but the pistons is not even tdc…so i put a stick in cyclinder 4 and did tdc by eying the stick reachign to the top…i have UGR Cam Gears, Gsr oil pump and water pump…any insights on this? kinda sputters, sounds like misfiring or something…any insight would help.

i seem to lose coolant a lot too. I have to keep adding a lot.

All these problems is happening have not changed since then because my starter bracket broke. I have checked the compression test and its fine.

[QUOTE=ShadowxXxDragon;2034903]ok…i fixed my timing on my distributor and have a little smoke. Sorry but its bluish smoke. I have that color eye problem so my friend told me about it.
i am guessing have an oil leak so i think my head-gasket is cracked…i have ARP and Golden Eagle head gasket and torqued down to 70 or 75, i forgot…can it be that problem? the box wasn’t clear of torque numbers.

also i have problem with my timing…i put the crank pulley tdc…but the pistons is not even tdc…so i put a stick in cyclinder 4 and did tdc by eying the stick reachign to the top…i have UGR Cam Gears, Gsr oil pump and water pump…any insights on this? kinda sputters, sounds like misfiring or something…any insight would help.

i seem to lose coolant a lot too. I have to keep adding a lot.

All these problems is happening have not changed since then because my starter bracket broke. I have checked the compression test and its fine.[/QUOTE]

whoa whoa. are u sure u know how to even gauge ur timing? cylinder #4… the one closest to the passenger fender? cuz if u put the crank to tdc… #1 cylinder (CLOSEST TO DRIVER SIDE FENDER and timing belt) is the one that should be at tdc. just cuz a cylinder is at the top of its stroke… doesn’t mean its in the right order. each piston/cylinder has 4 strokes, 2 that go up and 2 that go down. if u DO NOT understand firing orders u can watch a lil clip online, at howdoesitwork(dot)com or something like that and it’ll explain it. cuz the strokes are INTAKE>COMPRESSION>POWER>EXHAUST. in that order.

u need to get a darn manual or something if u can’t even get the number of the cylinder right. i aint ragging on ur skills but thats just ghetto. u have misfiring and smoke… when are u gonna seek some help of someone that knows what they’re doing? once it blows?

you mentioned that u did do a compression test… and u say its good. like whats the numbers? results? cuz if u are getting oil into ur combustion chamber… then obviously ur combustion chamber isn’t holding very well. could be valve guides, piston rings gone, or too much clearance, some other possibilities as well. the oil, is it becoming milky brown colored when u look in thru the oil cap? or have u tried draining the oil and changing it? more details helps.

u didn’t mention whether u found coolant leaking out of the motor like dripping onto the ground, or whether u think its passing thru the combustion chamber and going out thru the exhaust.

but honestly tho… WTF is a starter bracket? the connection u mean? the female wire that hooks into, or the positive cable that goes to it? or do u mean the mounting location (huge azz metal piece called the transaxle housing?). cuz i don’t thin i’ve ever heard of a starter bracket, or of one breaking.

ok finally got my compression test numbers…from cam gear side to distributor side…170-170-175-15.

i checked the spark plug and it sparks…so im thinking leaking head gasket…would an OEM gsr head gasket fit?

u should do a leak down test.

whats your set up?

[QUOTE=ShadowxXxDragon;2042285]ok finally got my compression test numbers…from cam gear side to distributor side…170-170-175-15.

i checked the spark plug and it sparks…so im thinking leaking head gasket…would an OEM gsr head gasket fit?[/QUOTE]

whoa 15 on cylinder #4… to get 15… are u sure there is still a complete piston in there? rip the head off b4 u even think about getting a headgasket. or do the leak down test. but on a leakdown test u need compressed air.

for visual inspections there’s a bore camera thing out there. its like one of those crazy fiber optic cameras that swat guys use to peak into rooms thru holes or cracks n stuff. is pretty cool, we got one at my work and use it to inspect the cylinders n stuff. just throwing it out there.

seeing as the OP said he replaced the head gasket but it has been sitting awhile…almost sounding like what happened with the RS i just bought, brand new head gasket but the kid working on it didnt know very much about cars either and installed the head gasket upside down which caused it to blow very prematurely on cyl 3. just my .02 though. but of course as mentioned a leak down test will confirm exactly where its leaking.

even with a blown head gasket, you should be getting higher that 15lbs. you have something wrong with your head (leaky valves or crack) or you have a massive hole in your piston. you can blow 15lbs with your mouth, so if your not getting that much from your cylinder, you have major proplems

this.

the car ran fine with turbo but i had blown seals on it. so decided to get the stock gsr head and swap it in with the conversion kit from xenocron. no piston work at all. also i noticed when i did a compression test, their is oil in cylinder 4 and the tip of the spark plug. their is spark when i took it out and crank it. so i’m thinking valves are gone.

i’ll try to get my hands on a leak down tester but what does it acutally do?

oh yea…i have smoke coming out of my throttle body when i turn off the car…so i assume valves are cracked…

[QUOTE=ShadowxXxDragon;2042419]the car ran fine with turbo but i had blown seals on it. so decided to get the stock gsr head and swap it in with the conversion kit from xenocron. no piston work at all. also i noticed when i did a compression test, their is oil in cylinder 4 and the tip of the spark plug. their is spark when i took it out and crank it. so i’m thinking valves are gone.

i’ll try to get my hands on a leak down tester but what does it acutally do?

oh yea…i have smoke coming out of my throttle body when i turn off the car…so i assume valves are cracked…[/QUOTE]

yea get it tested or do it urself. and if u don’t know what a leak down tester does that might pose an issue… cuz that is a pretty important and useful tool especially on builds. its like a compression tester, BUT u do not have to crank the motor. u just have to put the cylinder that u are testing to TDC… once u do that u test how much pressure the cylinder (combustion chamber) holds while the valves are closed for that cylinder… and it measures how much of the pressure put into it is held. if u have 100% thats a perfectly sealing cylinder… anything i think around 85% and below isn’t good. not sure on the numbers but obviously the closer to 100% the better. u also have to calibrate it to zero out once u connect air pressure to the tester, BEFORE u put it into the cylinder.

i did research and i think it has to be around 0-10 which is good. i know what it is now but i dont want to buy it. i checked and asked for a loaner tool but they dont have. if i would buy one, they say ‘AC’ tester…so i’m guessing its only to check AC bubbles on my cap i think. where can i get one or at least what is good?

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/leakdown/leakdown.php

i checked this site and said that if you hear air coming out of the throttle body, that means the valves are leaking or cracked. i see smoke coming out of my throttle body and i turn off the car.