i am building an LS-Vtec motor for my 90 DA(my first teg and i love it). i am using a b18a1 block, with stock LS rotating assembly and rods(did get ARP rod bolts) and B17 P61 pistons and a GSR P72-1 head(fresh from the machine shop), and i will be sitting at 10.81:1 compression, i did convert to obd1 and will be running a P30 with a GSR/ITR base maps and a few other things, as well as a YS1 tranny freshly built with hydro GSR 1,2, and 5th, and b16 2,3rd. i am replacing all of the gaskets, bearings, rings everything from oil to the v/c gasket. i am in no way looking for a super fast street car right now i just want a car that i built, and can DD for awhile and still have a little power to move when i want it to. what kind of power do you think this will make, or what do you think of the build.
NO NEGATIVE COMMENTS if you have a suggestion just say it and the reasoning behind it as to what i should do. i pulled the motor today it will be on the stand tomorrow and the teardown will start
also i went with the GSR golden eagle head studs, and LS-V kit, and i am converting it to manual
damn sounds like fun. i did the auto to manual and it was fun. i love excuses to work on my teg. i have no idea on your numbers but sounds like you’ll have plenty of power
umm… did u buy all the internals b4 taking the motor apart? i’m mainly just concerned about the block and the internals. u say that u are gonna run LS crank and rods, arp rod bolts, and p61 pistons. i’m just curious if u checked whether or not u got standard 81mm pistons or whether u went slightly oversized. i ask cuz i am curious of whether u took current measurements of the block… for piston-to-cylinder clearances. and i dunno much about the p61 pistons, but do those have to be machined to fit the ls rods? cuz i know the b16 ones don’t, but that the gsr and the itr ones do. just wanna find out b4 u go and get to that point to realize that certain things don’t fit.
also… are u gonna be at least honing out the cylinders or using a ridge reamer or something b4 u start putting in new parts?
[QUOTE=Squeezethis;2029354]umm… did u buy all the internals b4 taking the motor apart? i’m mainly just concerned about the block and the internals. u say that u are gonna run LS crank and rods, arp rod bolts, and p61 pistons. i’m just curious if u checked whether or not u got standard 81mm pistons or whether u went slightly oversized. i ask cuz i am curious of whether u took current measurements of the block… for piston-to-cylinder clearances. and i dunno much about the p61 pistons, but do those have to be machined to fit the ls rods? cuz i know the b16 ones don’t, but that the gsr and the itr ones do. just wanna find out b4 u go and get to that point to realize that certain things don’t fit.
also… are u gonna be at least honing out the cylinders or using a ridge reamer or something b4 u start putting in new parts?[/QUOTE]
yes my walls are perfectly in spec all the way up and down, i did not bore it out its still the 81mm bore, the p61s fit without modification to the rods thats why i got them the b16 ones put my compression too high for my uses. and yes i will use a ridge reamer before putting in the new stuff. i have a few buddies helping me we are going to do everything “by the book” so that it is reliable
#1 - not a fan of the diy honing.
#2 - maybe 150ish (just based on similar builds i’ve seen locally on the dyno).
it’s a c1 more or less.
well itll beat my buddies c1 coupe then:up: also it should pull faster and harder since i have a custom tranny and the head and shit. all im looking for is something i can say i built, and will have some power when i wanna get on it. and that 150ish to the wheels correct?
hell i dunno man. you’ll have to get it on a dyno. but a ball park guess, again, based on “similar” builds i’ve seen on a dyno, is probably where you’ll end up. but who knows. depends on teh dyno, he quality of the headwork, the combination of parts. too man factors to guess.
head was fresh from revline, and ill prolly take it to the next dyno day in KC
Revline uses somewhere out of house for headwork. Nolands I think. That’s cool though lemme know and ill come by and say hi
will do we got the block completely torn down and put the water and oil pump on and all new bearings getting the pistons on the rods fri.
How did you know the walls were in spec (up and down)if you just torn the engine apart?
tore the block down and checked it with my buddies tool made sure it was all good and started the rebuild last night. i was just letting you know where i was as of today
+1, also curious as to how many miles were on the block beforehand…
i ask because if you dont get the hone correct, your new rings will never seat right, and you just wasted your time and money. personally i would have at least gone with a slight overbore w/a matching factory piston…
good luck.
around 120k or so my buddies dad is a machinist and has everything i need to bore and hone it i just wanted to stay somewhat stock for now. once i get tired of it which i know i will i plan on port/polishing the head, better cams, and valvetrain, balance and polish my rotating assembly and getting different rods and pistons but its going to be a little while because i want to get the feel of my car and be able to DD it with no issues but still have some power.
ok didnt bore it got it honed today will get pics up when im done
so you are saying u got a dial bore gage and checked for taper, out-of-round thru all 4 cylinders? then u mic’d ur pistons that u are gonna be putting in, and that clearance is within spec?
yes sir:salute: ne thing else?? also am changing the rack thats in it out with a reman one. also am converting to a 5spd at the same time
well… sounds good. just make sure u check the ring gap n all. and make sure u got good oil pressure n everything once u get that thing running. good luck with the build.
lol thx i better have good oil pressure i just replaced my oil puump with a GSR one. ill let you guys know and once im done im going t make a thread about it ive taken a shit load of pics