Ok i have a 1993 Integra Gs-r with the b17. Im ready to go turbo but i want to go all out. I had the idea to do a 1997 LS block with built internals and a B18C5 head. From there i was going to go with a FULL RACE TURBO set up.
I saw Hondatec38’s setup and was in aw :shock: . He’s running great on stock internals and what hes going for is what im going for to some what. I want a daily driver that i can take to the roads and the track when i want to and not worry about anything being broken. This is my problem the LS/Vtec is know for being the best and the worst, its capable of making lots of power and others die quickly and are unreliable. I do not want that and i was wondering what i can do to prevent that. Plus for this setup of mine i wanted to know what the best things to get for this setup would be i am open to suggestions and will be advising you on what i buy after i have researched it and have gotten you all’s approvall on it being a good quality part.
The block i found for a great price and i have the head from a previous project. The manifold and the piping has been ordered. i need info on the turbo and most of all the tuning system or the computer for the fuel managment.
The reason for the bad press about LS/VTEC setups is that most people that do the swap:
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Start off with an old block to begin with. They do the conversion on their 150-200K mile block. Obviously, its going to go out, especially with the higher oiling needs of the VTEC block. the stock LS oil pump cant handle that and there is oil starvation in the bearings. Causing either oil pump failure or spun bearings.
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Oil pumps are not upgraded to the GSR pumps. Like I said, the VTEC head needs more oil pressure than the LS head and without the pump upgrade, you get no oil.
What I suggest is at least upgrade the Oil Pump or if you can, build the LS block to handle the needs of the turbo setup and VTEC conversion.
We’ve done many LSVTEC conversions and use them all the time in our race setups. No problems at all. As long as you do it right.
Wil
LS VTEC setups are only as reliable as the person who builds it. I have my lsvtec turbo with a LS oil pump now for 1 year so far with 402whp daily driver and get 80psi oil press to redline, no problems. Built it my self at that time 1 year ago as now i work at a fabrication/race import shop.
thanks for the ifno i bought the motor and it has 30k on it hte guy did a type r swap and never drove the car that much. so the block is in good condition. i ordered the turbo kit and the DA piping for full race turbo kits. the internals are the next part im probobly going to go all skunk 2 for the head and the piston JE. the crank im lost on and same with the rods. i was wondering if you can fill me in on the best. the computer will end up being an aem one which i hear is good and i know a shop that will tune it up. the axels aree hard to get right im thinking of going with the driveshaft shop ones . That brings me to anther point the trans. whats my best option for a streetable track car lol sounds weird but i have to drive this thing and i like taking it to the track.
my ls/vtec lasted 25k miles before it blew. my bottom end was weight balanced with type r pistons, 9400 rpm rev limit- stock ls oil pump and water pump. ls oil pump was shimmed to 92psi of oil pressure. every weekend was a trip to the strip and a trip to the local street racing scene. i drove it hard everyday, with numerous trips to fl-ny and back. if i only fixed that bent valve problem, my ls/vtec would of still been with me today. instead i ignored it and BOOM bye bye $1800 engine =o( damn i miss that motor only had it for a yr. ls/vtecs are realible. build it right.
LS- GSR oil pumps share the same part number witch means they’re identical. The ITR/CTR pumps are different than the GSR/LS/B16A pumps. the CTR and ITR share the same pump.
thanx for the info
yall type r oil pump it is
:think: Were you on siatlanta about the same question panda? I just saw that all the oil pumps are the same besides the spring on the vtec models? GSR and ITR should be the same right? I don’t know, but I just read over this on another site and they were talking about the same thing.
GSR and LS oil pumps share the same part number. the CTR and ITR loil pumps share the same part number. If I were You, I would get this http://www.inlinefour.com/spoonbseroil.html oil being the life blood, why cheap out?
thanx for the info i ordered all the internals i still need help selecting a computer
What about the spoon pump?
wrong! 99-00 SI, 96-01 GSR, 97-01 Type R are all 15100-P72-A01. The 95 GSR has a different number, but they changed it to a ITR pump in 96.
its spoon so its got to be good lol
i ordered all skunk2 valve train for b18c5 head this this is going to rock
i got 440cc injectors from moda car they are percision brand
ok the hard part is coming what trans would your recomenned i want one with close gearing but have a good top speed??
also parts added aem pro ecu,thermal 3inch exhaust, straght pipe, Progress coilovers,spoon rims limited 16 inch, spoon calipers and spoon valve cover. SPOON OWNZ ALL LOL
still need help on the trans and more additions axels and seats
All out?
Darton B20 block. HKS metal headgasket, Eagle rods, Weisco 8:1 pistons, all ARP fasteners, Clevite bearings, built valvetrain on Type R head, and extensive Hondata tuning w/ a Horiba wideband Air/fuel meter, and EGT.
Plus save up some extra $$ to tune the monster on a dyno.
(A spoon valve cover is the least of your problems.) Pretty much it comes down to how much you can spend.
-Andrew
Why would you want that low of compression ratio? Eagle rods all out? HKS headgasket? The rest of your suggestions are good, but those three are not very good. Stock honda headgasket, crower or manley rods and CP or Weisco 9.0-10.0:1 pistons. If you are going all out, those are my suggestions. 8:1 compression is just retarded unless you want to boost like 20+ psi on the street.
well lets just say that money is not an issue, and another mod is i painted it cranberry Red pearl with a light flake to it its smokin