Ok gys, i was just wondering if anyone had any suggestions, or what u would do in my situation. I’ve taken out the B17a from my GSR due to it sinning a bearing, tore it down to the bare block. Planned on rebuilding, and now confused. I cameup to the conclusion that if I endedup rebuilding it with some P30 pistons and eagle rods, it would be around 3000$ in the end for everything to be complete. Now, I love the b17a, but im kinda wondering what to do now. I have 1000$ to spend, and saving up about a 200$ each week towards the car. I first considered getting the 92+ B16a JDM longblock and dropping it into the car. Then i noticed that it would not be somewhat slower then the B17a in my car. Now, I wish i had enough money for a GSR B18C1 long block, but its twice as much, and i would rather get the B16a and add 1000$ woth of head work into it for that much. But anyway, what would u do in this situation? Swap the B16a with 170hp into it for 900$ + new clutch 400$? Save for another 4 months and rebuild the B17a? or Save another 1000, and drop in the B18C1 longblock + new clutch 400$?
Im just wonderin what other members here would do if this was them. Thanks guys. Laters.
Have you considered buying up a B18A block cheap, having it resleeved and decked slightly to bump compression, then toss the B17 head and pistons in and have an LS/VTEC?
heres what i think u should do, paying attention? sell me the comnpletetop end. 
When did Eagle start making B17a rods? What are you planning on doing with the engine that requires aftermarket rods in the first place?
I first considered getting the 92+ B16a JDM longblock and dropping it into the car. Then i noticed that it would not be somewhat slower then the B17a in my car.
Why would the much higher compression SIR2 engine be slower than a stock low compression B17a?
yeah i thought about the whole LS/Vtec thing, and thought about using the head with the LS block, but the whole LS/Vetec thing kinda scares me with all the different modifications involved. Oh yeah, as for the B16a JDM 92+, i heard it was comparable to the B17a but not worth the swap, and allot of people say that if it was in a 2nd gen integra and went against a B17a GSR, the Gsr would pull it. I dunno, i know the HP is like 10 more, the torue is barely lower, but as for 1.6 compared to 1.7, with an all motor setup, i heard that dont have as much potential in the B16a as u do in the B17a. All i know is, i might not have as much mods, but i would keep up with newer Mustang GT’s pretty good, and if i went with a swap, id like to know i’d be runnin just as quick, if not, take the GT.
And yes, Eagle does make rods for B17a. they are just hard to find.
I planned on getting the eagle rods to support the P30 pistons i was gonna drop in. I wanted the extra piece of mind and reliabillity a little over shot peened stock rods.
oh yeah… Casper- no. just had a valve job done, cleaned and everything rebuilt on the head, i dont plan on giving that Pr3 head away. Much less with everything in it.
no, Eagle doesn’t make a rod for the B17…just Crower… i know its listed, but the eagle rods will not fit…
if your block is not damaged… REBUILD – use quality bearings and a reputable machine shop – open up the bore and use some OEM .25 overbore ITR pistons w/arp rod bolts and CTR cams …go new timing belt and water pump… freshen up ur springs and retainers (if u haven’t already)… this should be under $1000… and u should no problem with those Mustangs
you have some crazy hook-ups if you can get ITR pistons, CTR cams, springs, timing belt, water pump, bearings, and machine work for under a grand.
what kind of machine shop are u going to? My machine work alone is like a grand for the rebuild. Not to mention, parts adds up to allot as well.
If u know where i can get all that done for undr a grand, id like to know. After parts and machine work, everything is gonna comeout to like 2500 for the rebuild.
Just estimates-
Pistons w/ rings- 300$ (P30’s os)
Rods- 700$ crower, or shot peened… (kinda dont want to go shot peened)
gasket set 150$
bearings- 100$
timing belt- 30$
water pump- 40$
Just parts- 1,300.00 (not including smaller parts that need to replaced during the rebuild)
Machine work- boring out the cylinders, cleaning the block, assembling the bottom-end, shaving the crank and supplying new bearings that fit the smaller journals with the rods. (crank is scratched) if i endup having the rods shot peened, balancing the bottom end. 1000$
Not to mention, if i get the CTR camshafts, 400 for the cams, 400 for the valve train, 400 to have the head cleanedup, new parts installed. Another 1200$ right there.
So in that case i’d be at about 3300$.
Then, to make the car run nice, tuning - 400… maybe more.
B17A block- free
B17A head- free
ITR cams -around 350 used
valvetrain- 200
Pistons (P30/PR3 OS)- 150 used
Rings (OEM)- 120
bearings-who knows
ARP rod bolts- 40 bucks
HG- 50 bucks
head studs-60
water pump/t-belt kit- 120 from prostreet (what I use)
factor in another 200 bucks for the machine shops labor and your right at about 1300 for a baby “R” engine. 550 of that is for “R” parts that arent even needed, just cool.
everything else is good to go. Stock rods would be fine for this application since your not going to be making gobs of power or spinning ultra high. stock IM isnt a bad design, the TB is kinda small, but its fine for a limited budget.
Am I way off what you wanted to do, or does this sound reasonable to you.
that sounds like a fun setup to me with plently of room to grow.
My machine work alone was close to a grand. I did the assembly myself.
I still call :bs: on Eagle B17a rods. Lets think about how Eagle makes their rods for a second. I doubt they’d spend the money on tooling for a platform that consisted of maybe 3000 engines produced. Crower and the other billet/build to order houses can produce whatever they want.
My mistake on the eagles, i thought i remembered someone saying they had them for th B17a’s, guess not. My mistake. Damn Archon, do u look for my posts just to prove me wrong? Seems like every post i put, u have some way of makin me look like an idiot. No hard feelings, the more i sound stupid and get corrected the more i learn. Thanks.
P.S. yeah that setup sounds nice to me Nonstock93, but the machine shop cost i have to argue on. My crank journals and scratched and need to be shaved and then supplied with thicker bearings, assembling the bottom end to make sure everything is balanced, boring the cylinders, cleaning, (shot peening B17a rods) then putting the P30 pistons on em.
After all that, If that costed less than a 800$ at any machine shop, i’d be glad the world was becoming helpfull, or scared about what the hell they did to my motor. Poorly done machine work is something im really not in a hurry to save money from. I’d rather wait and have it done right. If u know somewhere in Texas it could be done for cheap (well done) I’d be happy to wash ur car for a year for the help. Thanks again. LAtes
Crower is the only company making b17 aftermarket rods… I’ll take you b17 if you are planinng on selling it
No, I don’t. I just look for posts with incorrect information in general.
yeah i know, it was a joke, im thankfull for the remarks, it helps me with my information and knowledge, if it means i gotta look stupid, o well, atleast im learnin, never got anywhere without making mistakes first. Soon, all the mistakes are corrected and a finished built B17a is on the way. LOL LAtes.
oh yeah… the money thing. hmm… gotta wait for that too.
P.S. Sorry Schu, i’m not considering selling the B17a, or any of the parts, even if i buy another longblock to replace this one, im still gonna buildup the B17a the way i want to, the longblock would just be so i dont have to cry everytime i go outside and see the car sitting there, it would be a temporary swap if any, ill keep the B17 till a rod shoots through the block or some kids steal it. In which case, ill probably wait till i find another, and by it.
Thanks guys Lates 
I just got here
Hey Guys,
This is great. I wish I had known about this website before. It kinda makes me proud to own a 91 Acura Integra. Soon I will post a picture of my car so you guys can tell me how to upgrade and where to start from? 
Thanks a lot everyone.
See Ya.
you can rebuild that block for about $1500 with refreshed bearings, seals, machining, deck, ITR pistons and labor.
I personally would go with an LSVTEC setup. Don’t be afraid of the setup. Its simple and there has just been too many rumors and misinformation that lead alot of people to be scared of it. Its a good setup and we’ve been succesful in making over 750HP on an LS vtec setup for our race cars and street driven as well.
really …i know plenty of people with Ls/vtecs with stock bottom ends revving to 8500 …as long as its all built well and no corners cut …or worn out parts …
Listen to this guy’s words…a lot of people like to jump the band wagon when someone says that LS/Vtec is not reliable. The key is to do it right…My friend has been running LS/Vtec in his car for awhile now, and the compression along with the leak down test still checks in good…pulls hard and hasn’t had major problems with it at all.