sup G2ic, just received my crane cams stage 2, and i started the install today, i got the hayes book to help my along the way, but all let you guys know how it goes 
set ur lash to the specs for the cams man. not the haynes book or whatever.
thanks for the advice just using the book to help me take out the old cams, and reinstall the new ones.
ok guys need help i got the valve cover off, and the distributor cap, and on the exhaust cam i have all the cam holder bolts off, but can’t get the cam holders themself to pop off. Do i need to use something to get this things off? or what did you guys do?
i am not giving advise…but what i do is use a screw driver to pry those f-er’s up. i am super careful when i do it tho.
I used adjustable width pliars and yanked on one side then the other to loosen them.
i dont remember how i got mine off. if you use krazeteggie’s way, it would probably be a good idea to put a rag or something over the head of the screwdriver so you dont scratch/knick/gouge anything
thanks guys, the cams are in :rockon:. Now all i have to do is put the timing belt on and enjoy the results.
double check timing before turning the car over by hand. then after 1 rpm by hand check again.
:werd:
when me and my bro were doing a hg job on his civic we figured that one out hehe. everything lined up when we put the belt on, but after we turned the crank pulley a full rotation, it was way off. it took us like 5 tries i dont know what the hell we were doing wrong. luckily we didnt try to start it without checking it
jojo - good job 
let us know how they perform
ok G2ic need help :uhoh: . when i started this project i put the crank at TDC, and then stuck 2 screw drivers into the intake holder 1 and exhaust holder 1 so the camshafts and camgears don’t move. Then i took the cams out put new ones in put everything back together and when i tried to start the car and i turned over and sounded like it wanted to start but it didn’t tried 2 more times, and was messing with the distributer and still nothing can some one lease help!!?? could it that the injecters flooded or something else?
hire me.
double check timing first. then set your base timing(distributer) to what it says in your haynes manual. if you flooded you motor give it an hour or 2 and try again.
come on guys really need help here searched and everything if not then got to pay to get it fixed and don’t really want to do that?
i just went out there and TDC it again pulled the cams out and was thinking, are the cams supposed to be at twelve o clock when its not on jacks? or when it is? because would’t it be kinda at one o clock in jacks so when its off its on 12? sorry this sounds confusing
It sounds like your timing is off. Check to make sure your crank pulley is TDC and align the cams. Check your plugs to make sure you havent fouled them. Also if your timing is off check your ECU and you should be throwing code 4 (crank position sensor).
They should be at 12 o’clock relative to the engine, and the marks that are supposed to face each other should do so. make sure the crank is at TDC and you can put the pins in both holes (without play).
ok guys back again, i took the cams out at top dead center, even had the screwdrivers in the 5mm holes, put them back in and spun the crank 4 times, and the stock cam gears line up right and i try to start it and it wants to turn over but it won’t :bawl: could it be i jumped a tooth? and if so how can i fix that?
are you getting spark? also if you jumped a tooth your gears wouldnt line up and/or your crank would be off… check all your marks again… if it’s jumped you have to take off the belt and reposition it…
it seems to me like the exhaust cam is off its alittle like this /, so now it doesn’t line up on the mark on the timing cover should i put it at TDC and put the cams in again? and how can i tell if the exhaust cam is off 180 degrees?