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turbo sizes

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    turbo sizes

    ok, i'm getting a turbo set up but i'm wanting to make sure its not too small. i'm only going to be running about 10lbs off from it but i want to make sure that it doesn't burn out too early. i want one that will spool later (4 or 5k) so it will be good for my top end. the kit i'm looking at spec.
    cold side .50 AR 48.9 trim
    hot side .63 AR 61.9 trim
    anyone have something similar or knows around what rpm it spools at?

    #2
    Originally posted by atheworld0 View Post
    ok, i'm getting a turbo set up but i'm wanting to make sure its not too small. i'm only going to be running about 10lbs off from it but i want to make sure that it doesn't burn out too early. i want one that will spool later (4 or 5k) so it will be good for my top end. the kit i'm looking at spec.
    cold side .50 AR 48.9 trim
    hot side .63 AR 61.9 trim
    anyone have something similar or knows around what rpm it spools at?

    thats really point less. what are your power goals? whats your engine set up

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      #3
      my power goals are whatever i can get on 10lbs on stock internals with just arp rod bolts and arp head studs. that turbo on 10lbs should put me arond the 280 to 300 mark because i have a built head with blox cams and skunk2 intake. gonna be runnin 750 injectors

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        #4
        all u need is a t3/t4 60 to get to that. psi has nothing to do with it

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          #5
          i know how it works, but i'm wanting a turbo that spools later. 4k +. the bigger the turbo the less boost it takes to get the power i want.

          Comment


            #6
            Why in the world would you want a late spool, regardless of your power goal? As long as it can breathe to the power level you want, you should find a turbo that spools ASAP.

            A 50 trim T3/T4 with a .48 A/R could get you to ~300whp, and it would be fully spooled up to 10psi just before 5K. Dyno charts provided by Synapse Turbo:





            Hopefully you understand that you have a greater chance of breaking OEM rod bolts and OEM piston ring lands at ~300whp too.

            Originally posted by atheworld0 View Post
            the bigger the turbo the less boost it takes to get the power i want.
            Torque is what breaks thing, not boost pressure. If you ran a midget turbo on 10psi, it wouldn't yield nearly the same power that you'd get from 10psi on a monster turbo. STOP GOING BY PSI!!!!

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              #7
              yeah, i understand all of this, i just wanted to make sure that turbo wasn't too small and would burn out too early. b16's don't make their power till 7600 rpm, so i wanted to make sure the turbo would have its power by 5500 and live till 8500. spool too early, and is burned out. like a t25 dsm turbo wouldn't do my engine any justice. that small of turbo, won't break things only on 10lbs. the first thing to go is rod bearings, but the b16's are built way better than the b18a

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                #8
                Originally posted by atheworld0 View Post
                yeah, i understand all of this, i just wanted to make sure that turbo wasn't too small and would burn out too early. b16's don't make their power till 7600 rpm, so i wanted to make sure the turbo would have its power by 5500 and live till 8500. spool too early, and is burned out.
                With your power goal though, there's no need to shorten your powerband so stinking much. In fact, you'll be at the lower efficiency range of the turbo you mentioned in your first post. The one I just showed you is a much better choice, but I guess it's your call, if you enjoy lag.

                Originally posted by atheworld0 View Post
                like a t25 dsm turbo wouldn't do my engine any justice. that small of turbo, won't break things only on 10lbs.
                Of course a T2 housing is going to restrict flow on any B series. I assume the turbo in your first post is a T3/T4, but you didn't say. It's still above and beyond what you ultimately need, unless you plan to grow in the future.

                Originally posted by atheworld0 View Post
                the first thing to go is rod bearings, but the b16's are built way better than the b18a
                Out of all the failures I've seen, it's been rod bolts or ring lands. I could only see bearings being a problem if they're oil starved. Have any valid information or reasoning behind why you feel the B16 can withstand a higher power level than a B18A in it's stock form? Sure they have their differences, but the rod bolt and ring land weaknesses are the same.

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                  #9
                  well, to resolve your problem with the rod bolts, i'm replacing them with arp ones. and the difference between the b18a and the b16 is b16s are made to rev to 8200 as b18a are made for 7200. i've just seen a lot of lsvtec spin rod bearings because the bolts didn't hold up. your right, thats the first thing to go, but for some reason, i have found b16 rods to hold up better than the b18a's. now if you switch to a b18c rod, they are up there with the b16's. oh, and yes, its a t3/t4 turbo, and i'm building an lsvtec to support 500hp, so i'll have to switch turbo's when i get it done.

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                    #10
                    You'd almost think it would've been a good idea to tell us what engine you're working with in the first place, eh? I wasn't talking about the rev limiter whatsoever, but the power level they could withstand. BTW, those graphs were done on an unopened B16.

                    So is your goal 300 or 500 now? I hope you're not using OEM rods with ARP bolts for 500.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      no, my goal with my b16 is 280-300, and i'm BUILDING a b18avtec. sleeved, eagle rods, cp pistons, ect. i'm using only name brand stuff for the build and 500 is a small number for all the stuff i'm putting in it. it should cost me about 5gs when its all said and done.

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