HELP PLEASE; My blower fan speed selector switch has done the most frustrating thing!

ASSISTANCE Electrical & Entertainment Systems
1

Okay so it all started with my blower fan speeds 1 and 4 stopped working… so I took apart the bezel and replaced the switch, voila all speeds worked again for a few months and now just recently NONE of my speeds work anymore, but yet they are still drawing power from the battery, not just one speed but every speed draws power from the battery, more and more and a higher speed is selected but it is no longer turning on the fan.

So I rip apart the bezel again only to discover this…



The bare wire part, it wasn’t bare at first, but the casing around the wire I noticed was very crusty and hard looking so after some playing with some needle nose pliers the casing easily chipped away.

Now I’m at a loss of what to do, the wire that is exposed and burnt inside the plug is a thicker gauge than the rest and it is a black wire.

I have thoroughly examined the rest of the wires and they all seem fine, and the rest of the wires that trails on down to behind the radio seems fine too, I was unable to find any other exposed wire anywhere.

What makes this such a pain in the ass is the next-to-none working space I have in here, I seriously don’t know how I would twist and sauder any new wires in this shit, it’s that tight…

And I’m not sure what I have to do… get a new harness plug, cut the wires and rewire? so frustrating… thanks for the help in advance guys…

2

My guess is you have a problem with the blower resistor pack, located at top of heater box behind glove box.

Blower speed is controled by the blower motors ground going through resistors, the blower speed switch selects how many resistors the ground goes through before getting to the blower motor.
Resistor pack will need to be replaced.

The problem with the burnt/damaged plug is due to a poor connection, a poor connection will cause resistance, resistance will cause heat, heat increases resistance, more reistance will cause more heat and so on untill there is enough heat to burn things.

Best bet is hit up a pick&pull for the plug, repin all but the burnt terminals into new plug and replace the burnt one with an inch or two of the wire, solder and shrink tube.
Make sure the male terminal the burnt one plugged into is clean. 94

3

i thought the resistor pack was the issue too, but it’s operating properly… and by properly i mean it’s knocking the voltage down to what it’s supposed to be… if the fan has welded itself together or something is jamming it wont that cause excess current to be drawn? which might also explain the burnt wire?

4

i thought the resistor pack was the issue too, but it’s operating properly… and by properly i mean it’s knocking the voltage down to what it’s supposed to be… if the fan has welded itself together or something is jamming it wont that cause excess current to be drawn? which might also explain the burnt wire?

Your probably right, not sure why but I misread the OPs post as fast speed was still working.

That makes testing the blower motor the first thing to do, if it is a blower motor issue the OP will have to replace blower motor and may get away with just depining the burnt terminal from plug, [if it will depin] cleaning and “crimping” it tighter, slip a piece of shrink tubeing over the exposed wire then re-pinning it.

That may even work no matter what the problem is, but at least that has to be done.

Because the blower does not work at all, makes it the first thing to check. 94

5

Question-

I have a simular situation except that my blower works only on high, and there is a loud rattle in there. Is this a common problem? I don’t knowif there is loose bolt in there or something in the blower. Should I check the resistor pack for the problem with my speed control? ALSO- the AC compressor is attached to a seperate button. For example- I need to place the fan on high, then go to the seperate button and turn it on, this turns on my AC compressor (or the AC fan, I have to check) and I then get AC. Is there some way to get it to stock???

Any help would be appreciated…

6

Replace the resistor pack and go from there.

Thanks for your input fcm, he pulled the fan just now and found it wasn’t turning freely. I had an extra fan kickin’ around so he’ll try it tonight :slight_smile: Should solve the issue.

7

Yep! replaced the blower motor fan assembly last night and that solved all my problems, I’m in the process of putting everything back together right now, gonna clean up the burnt terminal a little bit and cover the exposed wire and hopefully I don’t have any more fucking problems with this area, I’m getting really sick of taking my bezel apart lol.

Thanks for your input everyone!

8

Question-

I have a simular situation except that my blower works only on high, and there is a loud rattle in there. Is this a common problem? I don’t knowif there is loose bolt in there or something in the blower. Should I check the resistor pack for the problem with my speed control? ALSO- the AC compressor is attached to a seperate button. For example- I need to place the fan on high, then go to the seperate button and turn it on, this turns on my AC compressor (or the AC fan, I have to check) and I then get AC. Is there some way to get it to stock???

Any help would be appreciated…
, You should have started your own tread, because it is, “somewhat” the same problem, do the same as the OP, pull the blower motor, either it, the squirrel cage is making the rattling sound, or there is something in the blower box, [pens, coins, garbage or mouse nest] motor can be tested by supplying power and ground directly to it, although not needed as your motor does work on fast speed.

Blower speed is controled by blower resistor pack and blower motor switch.

Blower motor must be on for A/C to work, if it only works at high speed it indicates a problem with the blower motor switch, not blower resistor pack, ground for A/C switch comes directly from blower switch, [green lead] and that’s before the blower resistor pack.

Pull and test blower motor switch with a multimeter or 12V test light.

Black is ground.
Green will test as ground at any speed, [except off].

Blue, ground at speed 1 only.
Blue/white, ground at speed 2 only.
Blue/yellow, ground at speed 3 only.
Blue/black, ground at speed 4 only. 94

9

[QUOTE=fcm;2078523], You should have started your own tread, because it is, “somewhat” the same problem, do the same as the OP, pull the blower motor, either it, the squirrel cage is making the rattling sound, or there is something in the blower box, [pens, coins, garbage or mouse nest] motor can be tested by supplying power and ground directly to it, although not needed as your motor does work on fast speed.

Blower speed is controled by blower resistor pack and blower motor switch.

Blower motor must be on for A/C to work, if it only works at high speed it indicates a problem with the blower motor switch, not blower resistor pack, ground for A/C switch comes directly from blower switch, [green lead] and that’s before the blower resistor pack.

Pull and test blower motor switch with a multimeter or 12V test light.

Black is ground.
Green will test as ground at any speed, [except off].

Blue, ground at speed 1 only.
Blue/white, ground at speed 2 only.
Blue/yellow, ground at speed 3 only.
Blue/black, ground at speed 4 only. 94[/QUOTE]

OK good info, thanks!!

Soeone should sticky this information, I’m sure were not the only 2 people with the fan speed selector/blower…

10

[QUOTE=Orlando_GSR;2078876]OK good info, thanks!!

Soeone should sticky this information, I’m sure were not the only 2 people with the fan speed selector/blower…[/QUOTE]

definitely, i have finally found a thread that relates to my problem, mine only works on 3 and 4, which sounds similar to your problem. had trouble finding this thread though because i didn’t know it was called a blower…