Remote Starter install on M/T

ASSISTANCE Electrical & Entertainment Systems
1

Ok I have been at this now for 2 days, I cannot get my remote starter to install on my car. Its a Autostart Prostarter model 3160M Manualm Transmission starter, I have this connected:

Sarter wires → In Car Wires

5 pin harness
Red (x2) - 12V+ → White/black 12V in car
Yellow - Ignition out → Black/yellow in car
Violet - Starter out → black/white in car
Orange - acc. → Yellow in car

7-pin Harness (Dont use 1 pin due to Gluw-plug out)
Black - Ground → Good ground in car
Violet - Tach → blue/white wire in car running up inside the dash (its good used a tach tester on it)

Grey - Hood pin → under hood :slight_smile:
Orange - Break switch → Green/white in car
Red - Valet switch - Attached to one of the 2 wires on the on/off switch for the starter

Yellow - Parking Lights → plug @ parking light switch in car

10 pin harness (only 8 used, dont use external trigger or ream pins)
Orange - Dome light in(+) Connect to dome lght wire that has +12V with the doors open–> Not hooked up
Grey - Dome Light in(-) Connect to dome lght wire that has GROUND with the doors open–> Not hooked up
Green w. Black - Ground out Negative output while running–> Coloured wire of clutch switch

white/yellow - Starter killout - Not hooked up
Blue - Parking break → Wired directly into the switch @ parking break
Brown - Lock(-) → Not hooked up no power locks
Green - Unlock(-) → same as above
Blue - Trunk out(-) → not hooked up manual trun relase

With this hooked up I cannot get the car to start, all the starter does is flash one long flash of the parking lights (normal) and then one quick one after then nothing happens. Even if i just bypass the clutch by jumping the 2 wires together on the switch it does the same, I even did the relay trick by how the starter said (87 - one line of the clutch switch, 86 - starter wire, 30 - other wire on clutch switch, 85 - negative output when running on the R/S)

Now the only thing that I can see not allowing the starter to start the car is not having the dome light hooked up thus its thinking that the doors are open? Or maybe not having the starter kill? Why wopuld that need to be hooked up? I attempted to hook up the dome light wire but I cannot fine the wire in the car that shows Connect to dome lght wire that has +12V with the doors open

I am getting really really peed off at this moment! I cannot get anything to work at all.

Any help would be great!

2

ok this is goin to be long… first when u use the remote to start the car, u should see the all the idiot lights go on the car and then the starter should kick in… also most remote starter u have to program the tach… did u do this ?..our door open to a negative trigger its located at the driver kickpanel a light green with red stripe near fuse box… disconnect the hood pin for now and try to remote start the car… maybe ur pin is not set right…
also in the owners manual there should be some type of trouble shooting tips

3

I agree with the above. I would guess that you either didn’t program the tach, or the hood pin isn’t being depressed enough. Let us know how things go.

Steven Kephart
Adire Audio

4

i think u have to make a reservation so u can remote start the car if ur starter is designed to remote start a stick shift… so this is what u have to do… i think … start the car with the key release the parking brake… press on foot brake and then set parking brake…release foot from brake… turn key off the car should stay on …open door then close door remote start should shut down and then arm car… thats how my compustar works
thats how u make a reservation to remote start the car then next time u want to remote start it… and u have to have the door pin connected… there may be some buttons u have to push to do this with ur alarm…

5

I Thought there was another relay that you had to wire in? And can you sit in your car, turn the key and start it w/o pressing in the clutch?

6

The hood pin seems to be working, I also programmed the tach abd the starter seemed to be working like the book said it word, put it this way when i programmed the tach the remote starter acted the way the book said it would, now when I program the tach sould I let the car worm up to regular idle speed?

I went through a procedure that put the starter in “ready” mode, I closed the hood, checked the car was in neutral, started the car by key, and put the parking break on, then I pushed the 1st button on the remote for the starter and the starter is suspose to flash the parking lights 3 times quick and it did, then I removed the key like the book said and the car continued to run like the book said it would, then I held button 2 to shut the car off and eventually the car did. But the car will still not start on its own.

I have the exact same starter in my auto and what it does when I press start the parking lights flash once long, and then all the idiot lights come on and the car fires, this one does not get that far.

Ok from what I seen the wire that I found for the doors is green and it has a red line on it, when the door is open its negative but when closed its +12, now is the other line for the switch a lighter green with a red line? The book said I need to find a line that is +12V when the door is opened as well.
One wire of the R/S has to attach to the +12V while open and the other has to go to the negative while open
Thanks all for your help thus far

7

Did you meter your parking break wire to make sure it was working correctly? IIRC you should read 12 volts on the wire when the brake is engaged. If the alarm doesn’t see this, then it won’t work.

Also, I don’t use a tach wire under the dash. I use the blue wire going to the coil under the hood. I know for sure it works. You might want to switch wires and see if that helps.

Steven Kephart
Adire Audio

8

Use a relay and convert the positive sgnal from the door to a negative or vice versa. Some remote start systems nave a neutral safety wire. On dei products it is black with a white stripe and on autopage it is the same color. It must “see” a ground signal in order to start the engine.I also agree the tach signal under the hood is better at the coil.Some of the manual trans bypass kits need for you to do a certian sequence with the parking brake and the door.The relay should help you with the door problem since acuras have a negative trigger when the door is open and a podsitive trigger when the door is closed.

9

Yes but I just red in the book that i only need one of those 2 wires hooked DOH, IOn my mnual it does not list a black and white wire… That must be for a newer model? Only wire there is a black for ground

My tahc wire is a good signal sinc when we put an external tach on the line it turned off the tach on the dash and put a reading on the external tach.

10

Ok I metered the parking break, and it only shows a ground when the handle is pulled, no power, but on my starter it said it was only to be a ground.

The onlything with the parking break line in the car was it was not working so I made my own line up just for the starter. Does it need to run with the line in the car to get current? If it does then I may be in trouble b/c the line in the car is not working.

11

ok it works now, before when i was utting the starter into redy mode I did not have the door trigger hooked up. Now with it hooked up its all working, I was just getting tha manual starter confused with the way auto starters work. Also with the door trigger i remember now, I was thinking the book was meaning that I only needed to wire one of the 2 door trgger latches, not the wire LOL. Thanks all everything works now!

Now to use it I have to do a sequence when I get out of the car so the car will only start by remote if the sequence is done, 100% fool proof from starting in gear.

12

Now to use it I have to do a sequence when I get out of the car so the car will only start by remote if the sequence is done, 100% fool proof from starting in gear.[/QUOTE]
never underestimate the power of the fools :slight_smile: