So the problem is my car wont start. Nobody around here want to read this but I am confused and asking different questions.
New battery last weekend, new alternator 2 months ago, and rebuilt starter (2nd one) 3 months ago. Because it is not turning over I am ruling out distributor because that already happened to me.
Is an ignition switch the same as the igniter? Either way that is what you change when you change the distributor cap right(the thing in the distributr cap)?
I read that the starter relay or main fuel relay could be my problem. Is there a way to tell which I should replace without taking them out?
And I read my starter pinion could be jammed. I just got a rebuilt starter and it was no good. The mechanic (a family friend) got a new one and put it in for free because he installed the first one. Could my starter pinion be jammed? I don’t know what it means but I am thinking it is a relays (never changed and its cold out) or igniter?
I would assume Ignition switch is the actual switch you turn with the key, igniter is the part in the distributor. You do not change the ignitor when you replace the cap, they are separate parts. If the engine does nothing when you turn the key I would not guess it is anything distributor related. You can check the switch to see if power is output when you turn the key. You should be able to test relays by getting a wiring diagram, and then apply voltage across the proper terminals, and the relay should click.
I was sure it was the main fuel relay becuase i went home and tood it out. it looked cracked and bad. I picked a new one up from Acura, poped it in and nothing. so it is not the main fuel relay. :argh:
I have an automatic- thank FMC
I am just so suprised after what i have changed. When i put my key in it, it clicks once as i turn it and once as i let off. No engine rotation and no noise from the starter. i am gonna buy a voltage tester next before i throw any more money away. atleast it is stuck at myhouse.
Ignition Coil: Test with voltmeter (<$10 multimeter from radio shack) via instructions in service manual. Replace with only Honda genuine OEM part or if you prefer, msd, just no aftermarket “OEM” replacement. Replace distributor cap and rotor if worn, and again, use only genuine Honda.
Ignitor: Test with voltmeter (<$10 multimeter from radio shack) via instructions in service manual. Replace with only Honda genuine OEM part or if you prefer, msd, just no aftermarket “OEM” replacement. Use Loctite on screws. Replace distributor cap and rotor if worn, and again, use only genuine Honda.
if the starter just clicks it doesn’t have anything to do with your distributor or ignition coil or ignitor. unplug the wire that goes to your starter (not the one that has the nut on it, leave that one there) now take another wire, a bare wire with an identical connector on it, plug it in to the starter, now tap it on the negative terminal on your battery and see if that starts it.
also try, getting a brand new negative battery cable from autozone, like 7 bucks or something. and putting that in, the negative battery cable goes from the terminal, to the tranny. clean up the spot where it goes on the tranny, maybe file it down so it has a good connection. see if that works.
If the motor won’t turn over you need to start your testing at the starter motor, supply power,[right from batt.] to the starter motor solinoid, or with a multimeter see if there is power there, if just supplying power, it will be to the thin wire, not the thick batt. wire, if the starter and solinoid are good the motor will turn over, evan if ign. switch is off, if all good, move back to starter relay, only easy way to test it is to is to bypass it, unplug it and install a jumper, [on the thicker wires] then try and start the car, depending on system if ign. is on or not it may crank motor as soon as jumper is installed, the other thing I would check, as its an automatic, is the neutral safety switch, turn ign.to start, hold it there and shift out of park, slowly go to rev.,neutral. and the gears, if the car cranks then the problem is there, if not, it still may be. you say when you turn to crank all you hear is one click and then another when you stop cranking, if so, see if you hear that click when the shifter is in rev. or any gear, or if you only hear it when shifter is in park or neutral, if only when in park or neutral and not when in gear, then the neutral safety switch is ok, and what you are hearing is the starter relay, or the solinoid.
I hope this helps 94
so it was corrosion that traveled up in the starter wire. I had cleaned it off the end but when I moved the wire around I got it to fire. I feel stupid but I had really had no time to look at it.
thanks guys
baking soda cleans it good. right?
94